Best 3" Duravent compatible horizontal vent end?

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tbear853

Feeling the Heat
Well, so far the old stove has been great since the most recent incidence of excessive feeding of pellets, that turn on the feed rate knob seems to have cured that.

I used to have my outside vent (3" Duravent) extend out from the stove on a 36" pipe section to a clean out tee outside, then straight up through my carport roof eve, up through another brace, to about 2 feet above the steep house roof. I had a vent cap on it. It was all about 15 feet from the tee straight up. When the roof was shingles, which I put on our new log home we built in 1990-91, I was able to walk / work on it.

In 2017, we had a contractor re-roof with metal, and I changed the pellet flue and eliminated the hole. Since then it went up 5 feet to a 90 elbow, and a Duravent tapered type horizontal end on it, pointing outward from under the 2 foot overhang. The nearby wall is metal as well. I've noticed that if it gets real windy, we can smell faint smoke.

Today, I added 6 feet of pelvent to carry that exit further along that carport wall, away from living portion of the house. Reused same tapered end, aimed outwards and slightly down, thinking any smoke blown back towards the house by a gust will have 6 more feet to dissipate. No log home is totally sealed.

Wondering if there are any better terminus ends, or if this is the best? Guessing we'll see tomorrow as wind is promised, but still curious if anyone has a suggestion. As it sits, total flue is 14+ feet including stove adapter, pipe through wall, tee outside, 5 feet straight up, elbow, 6 feet horizontal, end. I purposefully included slight rise in the horizontal run, I added it as the stove run. No water, no snow gets on the pipe.
 

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Is a concern I share, Many years ago when first built, the carport there was open, just a rail. There was no tee, just a long horizontal flue to the end out past the rail, I guess was over 20 feet. I then just used a cap I later discovered was for vertical pipe, but it kept wind out.

When warmer weather arrives, like spring, I might run the straight pipe straight up and brace to the wall and roof edge, but I'd hate to go through the roof like before ....which means tilting it outwards to clear the carport roof edge there, then continue upward at a 17 degree (from 90) angle and next to the porch roof. I would then use a vent cap for vertical pipe, but it would be tilted to 17 degrees too. As it is now, I'd have to buy the cap, and likely a new adjustable elbow.

A 17 degree turn is not as restrictive as a pair of 90s to simply step out from under the eave. Just playing with pics.
 

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ummmm... First issue is you need a bit of extension up thier to point it away from the house. With it like that the wind comes off the roof and creates a slight vortex under the over hang, also i think the way you have it is against just about every building code. As much as you hate to do it put it back through the roof that is just a really bad spot to come out of the house with it going through the roof in that location you do not have to worry about any leaks into the home.
 
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Thank You Sir for posting your thoughts. It does help.

It's actually not a code violation here and had it been beside a living portion of home, I would have done otherwise 33 years ago (to escape a living space window), and that wall is ribbed steel roofing with ribs that space the pipe out a minimum 3/4" away from the flat portions between the ribs. The nearest living space window near as high as the flue exit is a good 25 or more feet away. I started using this flue end a couple years ago on just the elbow seen, I just yesterday extended it 6 feet horizontaly. It is still pointed downward and outwards from the carport wall pretty much like in this picture, but it is overshadowed by the roof overhang and is about 13-14 feet above a rock covered flower area at the bottom of the carport masonry foundation wall which is below the steel. The windows are just for letting in some day light in the carport, the other end of the carport is wide open to the driveway with no doors.

The pipe exiting the wall is a 3 foot long pellet vent pipe through double wall thimble for pellet venting, with a cold air inlet beside it ... and exits behind my stove on a stone hearth which has near a foot of near straight pellet stove adapter pipe now. When first installed, the carport was open with just a railing. and roof. I added the carport walls later. I've replaced all the piping in the last few years.

As I'm typing this It occurs to me ... I could put a "45 turn on the new 6 feet of pipes" end ... then put this same tapered end back on (it has a up to "45" of its own) that 45 end .... that which would both:
A) bring the opening out to the edge of the overhang and
B), point such gasses 90 degrees out from the eave.
It does increase velocity of exhaust gasses exiting the flue as I noticed yesterday as I did this latest 6 feet of extension bare handed on the ladder "testing" the effect of the cone. Flue was comfortably warm, exhaust gasses still very warm, stove was at low setting but running nice.

I thought was gonna be windy today, but I see that actually the wind is due here tomorrow ... that will be the test I guess. Light snow now.

I took this from porch end, and yes, I have birds. I'll clean that mess in warmer weather.;)
 

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Wind is kicking up, but no faint smoke smells. I'm thinking the extra 6 feet did the trick. 👍

Never thought it was window related, believe is the fact that to end of the house is closest to the direction from where our winds come, and strong gusts would blow the exhaust across the car port roof towards the log gable of the house. Log gables are cut logs stacked, sealed with a spline, foam, and a log sealant caulk all, but there are slight gaps like between log ends and the roof panels. Very few maybe, we put a lot of effort there, but there are some leaks. The hope was that the extra distance would lead to greater dispersion before the exhaust reached that wall.
 
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