Bars interchange between 346xp and 359?

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mywaynow

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Dec 13, 2010
1,369
Northeast
I had been focusing on a 346xp until I was told that there was no bar in 24 inch length that fit that saw. So I began looking into the 359 saw. Oregon has a 24 inch for the 359, and the retailer I will likely buy from offers the 359 with a 24 inch bar. On Bailey's site, I plug in the Oregon number 240RNDK095, and look at the applications list, and the 346 is listed as well as the 359 as compatible saws for this bar. If I could put the 24 bar with a skip tooth blade on the 346xp, I would drop the 359 as the choice and stay with the 346xp, which is what I wanted from the beginning. Am I interpreting the information incorrectly? I thought someone along the way had said the bars were different on the 346 and 359. By the way, I do not intend on using the 24 inch bar routinely, merely to knock the trunks into round on some oversized trees I can't walk away from.
 
346xp uses the small mount Husky bar,(095 in Oregon speak) so finding a 24" bar that will fit shouldn't be a problem.

The real issue is the oiler keeping up on a 24" bar and running skip. The poor thing just wasn't designed for delivering the needed volume for extended bucking on larger stems and a 24" bar.
The 20" bar is about all the oiler will support without mods.

For the bigger stuff, a good 60-70cc saw is darn handy to have around.
 
Dingeryote said:
346xp uses the small mount Husky bar,(095 in Oregon speak) so finding a 24" bar that will fit shouldn't be a problem.

The real issue is the oiler keeping up on a 24" bar and running skip. The poor thing just wasn't designed for delivering the needed volume for extended bucking on larger stems and a 24" bar.
The 20" bar is about all the oiler will support without mods.

For the bigger stuff, a good 60-70cc saw is darn handy to have around.

You would stay with the 359 then? My understanding of skip tooth was that it would reduce drag on the engine, thus offsetting the effects of the longer bar?
 
How much stuff are you going to be cutting that requires a 24" bar? Even full in with a 20" bar gets old real quick if you have more than a few cuts to make with the smaller saw in hardwood.
 
If I look at what I did over the last year and a half, I would have bucked 3 trees where I would have put a 24 inch bar on the saw. I would only used it because the 18/20 that I would use otherwise, couldn't complete the cut. Simply put, any trunk that exceeds 36 inches in diameter. They are few and far between, but they exist, and I don't want to leave them. I won't leave them. To date, I have noodled and wedged these into quarters. It is allot of work, which I don't mind, but I currently have access to allot of good wood and time is becoming more of a factor. Most times, I have more time to deal with the available wood than I have wood. Also, a particular tree I have yet to buck is quite large, and in a precarious situation. See pic below (note a dollar bill is hanging on the bark in pic 2 for reference). A suspended truck that will bear multiple cords on it's own is available to me. It is also currently stopping me from working any further from the limb end due to concern of weight balance and losing the entire tree to the bottom of an embankment that will make removal a serious chore. This is the primary reason a new saw is on the immediate horizon. In fact I had won an ebay auction for a 359 that unfortunately did not transpire. I have a dealer that I can have a 359 with spare chain for 495 at my door with a 20 inch bar. I would then get a separate 24 inch bar and chain just for these large trunks.
 

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If that is typical of what you have access to, you won't be happy with the smaller saw. I love the smaller saw but a 70cc class is the way to deal with logs like that and IMO make firewood in general. I would go 70 and use what you've got for limbing, etc.
 
I always buy as good as possible with tools. However, and especially now with work as slow as it has been, dollars are limited. That 372 is over 800 and that is flat out of the question. I won't entertain used or ebay items from here-on either. They bring too high a dollar with to many unknowns. There is a seller on ebay selling new 365's and is driving distance from me. However, like many CL or ebay sellers of "New" Huskys, when I ask of the authenticity of the saw, or for a serial number to verify it is real, I never hear from them again. Husky saws are being knocked off at an alarming rate. I don't know why it is not being addressed. They are all over the place and out in the open. Anyway, it will be a new one and max cost 500 for me.
 
I heard ya on EBay, I won't close the deal on used equipment without looking at it either. No deposit, nothing until I look at it. Keep an eye on CL though, nicer saws come up and there are some good deals. The 2095 with 24" and 60" bars I got last year was $400 and had very little use. You just have to pounce quick.
 
I was looking at a new 346XP, figuring it would be all I'd need, when I ran across a used 372 for less money; I love how it cuts and can't imagine going back to a smaller saw for big stuff - the deals are out there if you've got time to look or wait. If you're in a pinch, is there a place you can rent a big saw for a week or so? First you'll get the wood bucked that you want, second it'll maybe help you decide whether you really want to spend $ on a mid-size saw or save for the bigger one.
 
mywaynow said:
Dingeryote said:
346xp uses the small mount Husky bar,(095 in Oregon speak) so finding a 24" bar that will fit shouldn't be a problem.

The real issue is the oiler keeping up on a 24" bar and running skip. The poor thing just wasn't designed for delivering the needed volume for extended bucking on larger stems and a 24" bar.
The 20" bar is about all the oiler will support without mods.

For the bigger stuff, a good 60-70cc saw is darn handy to have around.

You would stay with the 359 then? My understanding of skip tooth was that it would reduce drag on the engine, thus offsetting the effects of the longer bar?

Yes skip tooth reduces drag and can let you run a bit longer bar with same engine size, but Dingeryote is saying that the oiler on the 346 just won't put out enough oil for the 24" bar & chain. So you'd be really pushing the little saw with a 24" B&C burried, each big cut will take a long time and also not getting enough oil on the chain will lead to more friction & heat. It's a recipe for cooking the nice new saw.

I hear you on the price of 70cc+ saws. Lot's of folks just can't drop $800 on a saw no matter how great it is....

That's a good price on the 359 & between the 2 it's the better choice for that big stuff. IF you're set on getting a 24" bar anyway, then why not order it with an 18" which should be $10-20 less and a better combo with the 24". If you don't have to fell any monsters (just buck them up on the ground) I'd save some money (24" B&C is expensive) & just use a 20" bar. Making 2 cuts is no big deal when bucking.

Some other options to consider: Rent a Makita DSC6401 from Home Depot to buck the big stuff (it will have a 20" bar and safety chain) .
Buy a used 6401 from Home Depot IF you can find one & get 24" bar & chain for it if needed (you can rent first and put the rental cost toward purchase).
Buy the new version of the makita (6421?) online for around $600.
 
To find more prices on the Makita 6401, also check to see if you have a Dolmar dealer around. The Dolmar 6400 is the exact same saw but in a different color. You might run into a nice deal.
 
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