Last night I noticed some back puffing for the first time (only been a little more than week). It was windy as could be. I awoke to cold coals after loading up the firebox and then when appropriate closing it down for a steady run overnight. Last night, however, I was not able to keep the stove cooler than 550 after closing it up. It stayed that way for hours and was that way when I went to bed.
This morning, I had a tough time relighting the stove. I primed the flue with a newpaper torch, but couldn't get much done. It took me too long to light a fire and keep it going. The same thing occured this evening, I needed to restart the fire. There was back puffing and difficulty starting the fire. I recalled that I should consider opening the basement window- and then viola, the smoke stopped coming in when the loading door opened.
I began inspecting the flue and could hear a draw coming from the universal flue adapter and the adjustable double wall pipe. I placed a match to it and the flame was promptly sucked into the connection.
So here are my questions:
Would you seal the stove/pipe/chimney connections- flue to flue adapter, flue adapter to adjustable pipe, adjustable pipe to chimney or just open the window when there is a low pressure system outside.
If I did seal the pipe, should I expect better long burn control or should I just expect the satisfaction of making it airtight and be happy if there is any other bonus to be had with this fix.
Do I need to use stove cemement for the connections or is there a his temp silicone that works well for this application.
Thanks for reading.
-Ray
This morning, I had a tough time relighting the stove. I primed the flue with a newpaper torch, but couldn't get much done. It took me too long to light a fire and keep it going. The same thing occured this evening, I needed to restart the fire. There was back puffing and difficulty starting the fire. I recalled that I should consider opening the basement window- and then viola, the smoke stopped coming in when the loading door opened.
I began inspecting the flue and could hear a draw coming from the universal flue adapter and the adjustable double wall pipe. I placed a match to it and the flame was promptly sucked into the connection.
So here are my questions:
Would you seal the stove/pipe/chimney connections- flue to flue adapter, flue adapter to adjustable pipe, adjustable pipe to chimney or just open the window when there is a low pressure system outside.
If I did seal the pipe, should I expect better long burn control or should I just expect the satisfaction of making it airtight and be happy if there is any other bonus to be had with this fix.
Do I need to use stove cemement for the connections or is there a his temp silicone that works well for this application.
Thanks for reading.
-Ray