For background, I "get" the conventional wisdom on avoiding barometric damper draft regulators on conventional wood appliances
I also "get" how they can be beneficial on wood gasifiers- by making sure that the fire does not get pulled through the heat exchanger before the maximum feasible heat can be extracted
so here's my question-
I have a chimney with three separate 8" round tile flues- one for the oil, one for the wood cookstove, and one for the wood boiler, all of which "draw" really well
they draw so well that, last night, as I was working a bit on my Econoburn install, I noticed that the "Field Controls" barometric damper on my oil unit was pegged nearly wide open, even though the oil unit had not run at all for the better part of 24 hours
when I put my hand near the opening of the damper, I could feel the draft-- and if that warm air is going up the chimney, I know that other cold air has to be coming in somewhere else to replace it.
I know that the baromtric damper on the oil unit is adjusted correctly, as I carefully set it up last fall using Bacharach pro instrumentation.
so- my question is- anyone have any ideas on how to maintain steady and efficient "overfire draft," while not having a lot of excess heat go up the flue during the much larger proportion of time that there isn't a fire burning?
thanks!
I also "get" how they can be beneficial on wood gasifiers- by making sure that the fire does not get pulled through the heat exchanger before the maximum feasible heat can be extracted
so here's my question-
I have a chimney with three separate 8" round tile flues- one for the oil, one for the wood cookstove, and one for the wood boiler, all of which "draw" really well
they draw so well that, last night, as I was working a bit on my Econoburn install, I noticed that the "Field Controls" barometric damper on my oil unit was pegged nearly wide open, even though the oil unit had not run at all for the better part of 24 hours
when I put my hand near the opening of the damper, I could feel the draft-- and if that warm air is going up the chimney, I know that other cold air has to be coming in somewhere else to replace it.
I know that the baromtric damper on the oil unit is adjusted correctly, as I carefully set it up last fall using Bacharach pro instrumentation.
so- my question is- anyone have any ideas on how to maintain steady and efficient "overfire draft," while not having a lot of excess heat go up the flue during the much larger proportion of time that there isn't a fire burning?
thanks!