Auger Motor inconsistent voltage

[Djtweech]

Hi All:
I’ve been using a Regency GFI55 for a couple years now. Last year mid-season, the stove was having issues so I replaced the auger motor and all was well (or seemed well).

Same problem started again, but with more troubleshooting, deeper cleaning and more focus.

Randomly the auger will stop feeding pellets (for about 5-15 cycles) which causes the fire to go out and stove to shutdown due to no proof of fire.

Watching the voltage on the auger motor line, here is the normal cycle.

On for 3s - 118-120V
Off for 3s - 87V

When the auger stops feeding its:
On for 3s - 118-120V
Off for 3s -110V

This is very consistent. Is this a control board problem? Or is the motor going nuts?

I’m covered in ash, tired, and about to chuck this thing at the curb.

Thanks in advance

 

[Ssyko]

Control board issue. voltages should be 115-120 on zero off. it is probably getting hot in the windings and shutting down.. if this has been going on for a while the auger motor may be on its way out also

 

[Djtweech]

Control board issue. voltages should be 115-120 on zero off. it is probably getting hot in the windings and shutting down.. if this has been going on for a while the auger motor may be on its way out also

Thanks for this info. I replaced the auger motor last year, when it was doing the same thing. Is it possible the auger motor caused the control board issues or vice versa? I don’t want to dish out $400 for a board and it happens again. TYIA.

 

[Ssyko]

did you take your measurements with the auger motor wires on the probes with the motor unhooked? I would replace both, not worth taking a chance.

 

[Djtweech]

I did not, but will try in the AM. So without a motor connected, I should get 120V on and 0V off. I’ll keep you posted.

 

[Ssyko]

correct

 

[Djtweech]

correct

So I’m getting 120V on and 57V off without the auger motor connected. So control board issue like you said.

I am also getting 2-6V when the system is off but stove is still plugged in.

I tested a few capacitors, and one seems bad, so I am going to replace it. Hope that goes well, otherwise I’ll need to fork out the $400 for a new board.

Thoughts on a new motor too?

 

[Ssyko]

i would do the auger also just cause. if you are comfortable changing caps you could change the triac also that is probably the culprit. it is circled in red the optoisolater could also be damaged (that's the white chip)

not your board but they all the components look the same

 

[Ssyko]

can you get a pic of the back of the board? I have some enviro's i could ck which one you need to change

 

[Djtweech]

can you get a pic of the back of the board? I have some enviro's i could ck which one you need to change

Picture of the board I pulled online. Looks identical.

 

[Ssyko]

(broken link removed)

 

[Don2222]

Hello
Did you take out the auger bushing and clean it. Then add more light weight machine oil for lubrication?

 

[Djtweech]

Hello
Did you take out the auger bushing and clean it. Then add more light weight machine oil for lubrication?

Will do this when I replace the motor. Thanks for advice!

 

[Djtweech]

(broken link removed)

Replaced both the triac and capacitor and the voltage to the motor is what it should be 120V on 0V off. Do you think it was the triac or the capacitor?

Dude. Thanks so much on this!!

 

[Ssyko]

Triac was the culprit( i by them by the hundred) didn’t hurt to change the cap mfgrs tend to bean count caps.