How can I reduce the air intake on this thing I have checked for leaks around the door - ash pan, even plugged the holes on the bottom both sides off the ash pan area. This stoves just breaths way to much! Can not get any control able fire unless it is one split piece at a time.
Ashley 3200 overfiring
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Gearhead660
Minister of Fire
I believe there may be some air inlets that are not adjustable. The manufacturer adds them to get the stove to burn cleaner(get epa certification). Best and safest way to get that big stove to behave would be to add a key damper. What is your chimney setup?
No key damper installed. My only concern about that is yes it stops the effluent flow of air but not the influential- plugged these 4 - 1inch x 1inch holes on the bottom only visible if you pull the ash pan and look two on each side of the bottom of the stove. Seemed to help a bit. About to put the stove on jack stands remove the base stand and see if i can seal these dampers up some more. I know I hit 1000f outside top last nite again. My stack is dvl pipe. Just saying. Going now to store to get some incense to try and find any leaks. Dollar bill test is ok on door only near the top it pulls out but with a hair of resistance. At this point this stove is very disappointing.
***** I do have a key damper on the way just don't know if it will keep the temps down in the stove OR just keep the temps down in the stack and chimney? Gearhead thank you for responding.
Wisco Shepherd
Minister of Fire
Key damper may surprise you in how well it works, give that a go first. I have an easy breather and also found that I get better results with larger splits and taking time to play tetris with them so there is less gapping.
The stove temps can be high because too much air gets in. The chimney "sucks" at a certain strength (draft), and the air inlets on the stove restrict that (e.g. as compared to an open stove door).
Decreasing that suction with a key damper will decrease the air coming into the stove, and thus how hot it burns.
(Not saying that blocking some holes won't work or is not necessary; maybe you need both approaches.)
Decreasing that suction with a key damper will decrease the air coming into the stove, and thus how hot it burns.
(Not saying that blocking some holes won't work or is not necessary; maybe you need both approaches.)
Gearhead660
Minister of Fire
How tall is your chimney/flue?
The key damper is an easy and inexpensive install. Far easier than trying to find and plug any holes in the stove. I also have a large stove that would easily get to 1000* flue temp. Installed a damper and its a totally different stove.
Burn larger splits packed tightly, close down the air sooner. If that doesn't work, then put a key damper on the stove pipe.
Instrumentation will help guide the timing of air closure. It should be as quickly as possible without smothering the flame. This thread has some guidance.
Instrumentation will help guide the timing of air closure. It should be as quickly as possible without smothering the flame. This thread has some guidance.
25ft and you are right would definitely seem like an easier job to install a flue damper.
I have tried this to some extent but this stove will eventually just take off and start to over fire.Burn larger splits packed tightly, close down the air sooner. If that doesn't work, then put a key damper on the stove pipe.
Instrumentation will help guide the timing of air closure. It should be as quickly as possible without smothering the flame. This thread has some guidance.
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