And another adventure of you guess what caused problems in this stove. Names withheld to protect th

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kinsmanstoves

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
I had this stove dropped off and asked to diagnose the problems. Very dark and thick ash. Bowed ashpan (second pan in 18 months and second combustion blower). I did not sell or install this unit.

Eric
 

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More pics for you to look at.
 

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I'm gonna say that these problems were caused by that square and the hand there. you can't leave those things in the unit and expect things to work ok.

Advise them to try burning coal in there, along with action figures, they have really high BTU's.
 
bowed ashpan possibly due to the fire burning in the ashpan when, due to OBSCENELY poor maintenance on the owner's part, the fire migrated to the ashpan, overheating it......my money is on yet another (GASP! :ahhh: ) owner who cant follow instructions and clean their unit sufficiently. Yea, yea, Im sure its the dealers' fault yet again........"they didnt TELL me I had to clean it....".....
 
Lousyweather said:
......my money is on yet another (GASP! :ahhh: ) owner who cant follow instructions and clean their unit sufficiently......
NO WAY!!! It's all you dealers fault....you didn't lead me by the hand and hold a gun to my head and force me to read the owners manual, or force me to pay attention when you installed the stove.....I thought the way the stove looks in the pictures is NORMAL!!!! How dare a manufacturer make a device that actually has to be cleaned!!!
:roll:
 
LACK OF CLEANING + $HITTY PELLETS = THAT.
 
summit, it could be just total lack of cleaning.

Then again it could be what happens when you attempt to start a nuclear chain reaction in a pellet stove. I understand those Pu239 Earth decombobulaters can be a bit touchy.
 
It all looks like a poorly maintained stove until you see the pics of the combustion motor leads. If they are singed then it is getting altogether too hot out back. That doesn't happen from a dirty stove unless you have a creosote fire. Any cake inside the exhaust port? How does the burn pot look? Is that bent in any way?
 
smwilliamson said:
It all looks like a poorly maintained stove until you see the pics of the combustion motor leads. If they are singed then it is getting altogether too hot out back. That doesn't happen from a dirty stove unless you have a creosote fire. Any cake inside the exhaust port? How does the burn pot look? Is that bent in any way?

The burn pot was dirty but no indication of being bent or distorted. We will be installing a liner in the masonry chimney. I do feel the stove did over heat and caused warping of the rear firewall. This also caused issues behind the stove to the wire harness, combustion blower and possible other components.

Eric
 

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First picture shows plugged solid exhaust port. And that blower hasn't been removed in a very long time. Lack of combustion air and Excessive heat in combustion area.

But its a bigE. Some would just warp and they never got that hot. AFAIK!
 
warped stoves (i cannot vouch for the big-e warping when maintained , i have no experience with them)

anyway , when a stove is not maintained it burns dirty (obviously) but here's the problem for real , the ash acts as an insulator. the heat generated is concentrated in a smaller area thus overheating that area. another pernicious little tidbit is that the loaded up ash also slows down the combustion air flow (which is the root cause of the dirty burn) this causes the heat generated by an overloaded pot concentrated in a smaller pathway to REALLY get the stove hot in the affected areas of the exhaust pathway.

bottom line people clean out your stoves every few days , the stove you save may be your own.

to the OP, please do not recommend one of my stoves to this customer :zip:
 
Even bypassed high limit switches would not be the root cause of what happened.

If it was there is an underlying design issue with the stove assuming that all other parts were working correctly.

The design issue is that the convection blower and heat exchanger can not adequately move the heat out of the stove and into the room and thus would allow the temperature of the stove to steadily increase until the high limit trips. Then if the high limit switch is prevented from doing its job the stove would overheat, likely warp part of the firebox and perhaps cause problems due to opening up paths for extremely hot gases to cause issues for anything close to the firebox.

Usually for a stove to be damaged by over firing several things need to fail or be defeated.

The other way to get an over fired situation would be to have a burn pot buildup cause an ash pan fire, a creosote fire in the firebox, and perhaps over time in the combustion blower if the exhaust is severely restricted.

I vote for major unsafe operation because of incorrect or nonexistent cleaning.
 
I just love my butt-ugly steel plate freestanding woodstoves. So simple, even I (with only 3 degrees in Mechanical Engineering) can operate, maintain, and enjoy them. Rick
 
fossil said:
I just love my butt-ugly steel plate freestanding woodstoves. So simple, even I (with only 3 degrees in Mechanical Engineering) can operate, maintain, and enjoy them. Rick

LOL, there's one in every bunch ;-) .
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
fossil said:
I just love my butt-ugly steel plate freestanding woodstoves. So simple, even I (with only 3 degrees in Mechanical Engineering) can operate, maintain, and enjoy them. Rick

LOL, there's one in every bunch ;-) .

I hope he means BS,Masters, and Phd, not 3 BS in ME from 3 different schools. That would be like doing the same crosswords puzzle 3 days in a row.

fossil, i hope you minored in something like juggling or bocci to help get rid of all that math floating around in your head.
 
Delta-T said:
...fossil, i hope you minored in something like juggling or bocci to help get rid of all that math floating around in your head.

Astronomy. But I did teach myself to juggle.
 
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