Am I on the right path for plumbing this up??

[bulldogbones]

Well guys I have read and looked at a bunch of threads and to be honest I start getting confused with mixing valves, zone valves, Canuter valves and just plain valves lol. I did a simple drawing in paint of how I think I should plumb everything up. But since im not a genious thats why I am asking if im on the right track. In the pic you will notice three things circled in purple two I dont know what to put at those intersections and the third one I dont know what its for on the bottom of the boiler. The black round circles are circ pumps. I know there is proper symbols for all this stuff, but im not a plumber by DAY.

 

[4acrefarm]

Looks good, The mixing valves are to
1 keep temps down in radiant witch you shouldn't need with radiators
2 To keep cold water from entering your boiler, witch you probably do need.

What kind of boiler? Do you have a manual? Boiler protection keeps condensation from forming from the moisture released from the wood. this causes all kinds of problems. You will want to put some check valves in to keep he water from flowing backwards, and make sure you have an air scoop and pressure relief valve. A flow check valve in the radiator loop might be good to prevent flow when no heat is called for and the tank is being charged. I would just put t's where the two purple circles are and plug the lower port. I just copied the simplest pressurized system on the sticky. Good luck and I am sure others will chime in especially if you have specific questions.

 

[Nofossil]

As I see it, there's nothing to connect at the bottom right of the boiler (marked 'return storage').

As mentioned, you do need inlet protection to keep your wood boiler inlet above 140 or so. Simplest would be a zone valve connected from the wood boiler outlet to a point just left of the wood boiler circ, controlled by an aquastat at the wood boiler inlet. There are plenty of other schemes.

You'll want to use circs with multiple speed settings to balance flow. Grundfos makes nice ones that aren't expensive. I think others do as well.

You don't show zone valves, so all radiators will get heat any time the load circ is running. This isn't wrong, but if there are logical heat zones, you can just add zone valves in line with the radiators to control which zones get heat. Zone valves have built-in limit switches so it's pretty easy to wire them so that if any zone is open, the load circ will come on.

You don't show any backup heat source. Is there any? How do you heat your domestic hot water?

 

[bulldogbones]

Looks good, The mixing valves are to
1 keep temps down in radiant witch you shouldn't need with radiators
2 To keep cold water from entering your boiler, witch you probably do need.

What kind of boiler? Do you have a manual? Boiler protection keeps condensation from forming from the moisture released from the wood. this causes all kinds of problems. You will want to put some check valves in to keep he water from flowing backwards, and make sure you have an air scoop and pressure relief valve. A flow check valve in the radiator loop might be good to prevent flow when no heat is called for and the tank is being charged. I would just put t's where the two purple circles are and plug the lower port. I just copied the simplest pressurized system on the sticky. Good luck and I am sure others will chime in especially if you have specific questions.

Sorry guys for not responding sooner, Ive been workin in ME about 10 miles from Canada in Maine North Woods working for border patrol.


I have a Tarm MB Solo https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/58936/ yes I have the manual. I will start pricing some check valves.

 

[bulldogbones]

As I see it, there's nothing to connect at the bottom right of the boiler (marked 'return storage').

As mentioned, you do need inlet protection to keep your wood boiler inlet above 140 or so. Simplest would be a zone valve connected from the wood boiler outlet to a point just left of the wood boiler circ, controlled by an aquastat at the wood boiler inlet. There are plenty of other schemes.

You'll want to use circs with multiple speed settings to balance flow. Grundfos makes nice ones that aren't expensive. I think others do as well.

You don't show zone valves, so all radiators will get heat any time the load circ is running. This isn't wrong, but if there are logical heat zones, you can just add zone valves in line with the radiators to control which zones get heat. Zone valves have built-in limit switches so it's pretty easy to wire them so that if any zone is open, the load circ will come on.

You don't show any backup heat source. Is there any? How do you heat your domestic hot water?

Ok now im confused so bear with me. What is inlet protection? I know I dont show zone valves because the when I bought the house the manifold had 1/4 turn valves for each radiator. As crude as that might be I only want to control on room in my house ( my bedroom, I like it about 2 degrees above freezing ) so I have that just barely open so that the radiator is luke warm.

I have a 10yr old forced air oil furnace as my back up heat. I heat my domestic via propane hot water heater.

Please feel free to modify my piping pic and repost it. Im more of a visual learner

 

[4acrefarm]

inlet protection keeps cold water from entering your boiler. Think of it like an automotive thermostat tha keeps the water recycleing until a set temp is reached, ussually 140*. You never mentioned what kind of boiler

 

[bulldogbones]

Ya in post #3 and I also included a link of my actual boiler. Also it's a 140k btu.

 

[4acrefarm]

Ya in post #3 and I also included a link of my actual boiler. Also it's a 140k btu.

How did miss that? Nice boiler. Wit storage you should be in pretty good shape there, just follow the diagram in the post and ask questions if you get lost. good luck and stay warm.