ADD ON WOOD BOiler

[rayvel67]

Hi All

First of all, lets me start of by saying that this is the best website i have come across. Its very informative!!. About two months ago i scored a Royall indoor add one wood boiler on craig's list for $250. Of course i need help in deciding how to install it.... first pic shows what the boiler looks like (of course since this boiler is old i would have to check for leaks). Since the boiler in my house is in the garage, i would have to add the add on wood boiler in the garage. The add on wood boiler would be about 5 feet away from the original boiler. If you look at pic #2, you will see where the original vent for where the boiler is mounted. On the right side of it, thats where i would like to drill the hole for the add on wood boiler vent. Pic #3 is a pic from outside the house, in this pic you will see the vent for the original boiler,around this area the new vent will come out for the add on wood boiler. Pic #4 you will see the chimney for the fireplace, i would like to cut a hole in the chimney and bring up a new vent pipe for the add on wood boiler. So in this chimney there will be two vents one for the fireplace and one for the add on wood boiler. Im not sure if this would meet or exceed all local, state and requlatory requirements?????

Thank You,

 

[Duetech]

Your block chimney looks big enough to handle three flue pipes but is it built so it can or does it just look like it can? Welcom to the forum. You may find that placing a solid fuel appliance in your garage is against code in your area. Before you proceed with any real time construction you should contact your building code inspector and see what is really feasible.

 

[stee6043]

I can't really tell how big that "opening" below your chimney is. To meet code you need a minimum of 2" clearance to combustibles on all sides of your Class A chimney pipe. If you're running 8" pipe you'll need somewhere around 14" of clearance to run the pipe depending on the outside dim's of the pipe you choose.

I'm sure others will chime in on vent/chimney sharing. You're talking about only sharing the chimney chase but having two seperate pipes inside the chase, correct? I'm sure this would be a fine way to go as long as you're not talking about actually sharing the vent pipes...

And last - welcome to the board!

 

[rayvel67]

Your block chimney looks big enough to handle three flue pipes but is it built so it can or does it just look like it can? Welcom to the forum. You may find that placing a solid fuel appliance in your garage is against code in your area. Before you proceed with any real time construction you should contact your building code inspector and see what is really feasible.

Thanks cave2k . I think its built to handle three pipes. i will look into it.

 

[rayvel67]

I can't really tell how big that "opening" below your chimney is. To meet code you need a minimum of 2" clearance to combustibles on all sides of your Class A chimney pipe. If you're running 8" pipe you'll need somewhere around 14" of clearance to run the pipe depending on the outside dim's of the pipe you choose.

I'm sure others will chime in on vent/chimney sharing. You're talking about only sharing the chimney chase but having two seperate pipes inside the chase, correct? I'm sure this would be a fine way to go as long as you're not talking about actually sharing the vent pipes...

And last - welcome to the board!

Thanks Stee6043, Yes i want to share the chimney chase and put seperate pipes inside the chase. I was thinking of running 7" pipe. What do you think??

 

[stee6043]

The size of the pipe is typically spec'd by the boiler manufacturer, rayvel. How big is the flue pipe outlet on the boiler itself?? I'd use that as your guide.

I went with a 6" pipe on my EKO to save some cashola after doing some research. Turns out the 6" is adequate in my case. But I'd want to confirm that you'll be okay with 7" before you spend the money. You don't want to have an undersized vent...

 

[rayvel67]

The size of the pipe is typically spec'd by the boiler manufacturer, rayvel. How big is the flue pipe outlet on the boiler itself?? I'd use that as your guide.

I went with a 6" pipe on my EKO to save some cashola after doing some research. Turns out the 6" is adequate in my case. But I'd want to confirm that you'll be okay with 7" before you spend the money. You don't want to have an undersized vent...

i think its about 8" so what ever size it is i will go with that. Thanks. The only think left is how to set up all the pipes. I think i may just get someone to do this for me. Do you know how much this would cost me???

 

[stee6043]

The size of the pipe is typically spec'd by the boiler manufacturer, rayvel. How big is the flue pipe outlet on the boiler itself?? I'd use that as your guide.

I went with a 6" pipe on my EKO to save some cashola after doing some research. Turns out the 6" is adequate in my case. But I'd want to confirm that you'll be okay with 7" before you spend the money. You don't want to have an undersized vent...

i think its about 8" so what ever size it is i will go with that. Thanks. The only think left is how to set up all the pipes. I think i may just get someone to do this for me. Do you know how much this would cost me???

Hah....my stock answer to that question is "too much". If you're handy around the house I'd suggest you spend some quality time on this board and do it yourself. First step is drawing up a schematic of what you want to do with the boiler.

But if you absolutely don't want to do the install yourself I'm sure you can get some quotes. Install can be pricey...$2k-5k+???

 

[rayvel67]

The size of the pipe is typically spec'd by the boiler manufacturer, rayvel. How big is the flue pipe outlet on the boiler itself?? I'd use that as your guide.

I went with a 6" pipe on my EKO to save some cashola after doing some research. Turns out the 6" is adequate in my case. But I'd want to confirm that you'll be okay with 7" before you spend the money. You don't want to have an undersized vent...

i think its about 8" so what ever size it is i will go with that. Thanks. The only think left is how to set up all the pipes. I think i may just get someone to do this for me. Do you know how much this would cost me???

Hah....my stock answer to that question is "too much". If you're handy around the house I'd suggest you spend some quality time on this board and do it yourself. First step is drawing up a schematic of what you want to do with the boiler.

But if you absolutely don't want to do the install yourself I'm sure you can get some quotes. Install can be pricey...$2k-5k+???

Ok thanks i guess i will start drawing it up.once i do it i will post it up.

 

[rayvel67]

Hey
So i been looking online to see how i can install the add on boiler and i'm thinking of going with this Diagram.

 

[Gooserider]

Hey
So i been looking online to see how i can install the add on boiler and i'm thinking of going with this Diagram.

You might want to think about adding storage for the same reason that the gasser folks do, in some ways a conventional boiler needs storage even more in order to keep it from making creosote in the chimney... Also I don't like the way your picture shows an isolation valve on each side of the boiler, w/ no expansion tank in the potentially isolated section - build a fire and forget to turn those valves on and things could get very ugly in a hurry... I think you may want to look at more of the plumbing diagrams that people have used on this forum and see if you can come up with something better - your proposed diagram is simple and would work, but it doesn't seem particularly safe or efficient.

Gooserider