A few questions about my Osburn Stratford II ZC

[treeguy270]

I've been running this fireplace in our new built home for about a month now. So far I'm really enjoying it and learning how to get it dialed in a little better. It seems to put out pretty good heat. Our original intention wasn't to use it for our main source of heat, but just to supplement during really cold spells or when we just felt like having a fire. After running it for a month I think we'll end up using it more than I had originally thought.

One question I have is about not running the fireplace consistently. I'm not to the point that I'm comfortable with starting a new fire in the mornings before we both leave the house for the day. So the fireplace is going through a lot of heat cycles from cooling all the way down during the day and being re-lit at night. On the weekends I've been keeping it fed all day and night. Is there any issue for the fireplace going through so many heat cycles? Also when it starts heating back up it there's a good amount of pops and creaks as the metal starts expanding. Occasionally a pretty good bang that startles us. I know being a ZC there is a lot of extra metal shielding that is likely making the noises as it heats up. I guess I'm just looking for some confirmation that it's normal for these units.

The users manual doesn't mention whether it's okay to run the unit without the blower being on? So far we have always had the blower going, but there may be some times we may want to turn it off. Didn't know if that could cause the fireplace to get too hot?

I appreciate any info. Thanks

 

[ericm979]

I have a Flame Monaco which is very similar to the Osburn EPA I version.

I asked SBI and they said it's safe if the power goes out while the stove's operating and the fan doesn't run. But I try to not do that on purpose. OTOH the fan on mine will stay running long after the fire's out until the stove is nearly dead cold, so I don't worry much about turning it off a little early.

 

[mcdougy]

Noises are common, especially as your breaking the stove in and reaching new temperature maximums. It takes awhile to get used to hearing them, but IME they are perfectly OK. If your having a large hot fire I would run the fan. If having just a small fire I would be comfortable with not using the fan.
I promote you to fill the stove, turn the air intake all the way down when appropriate, have the fan running, and going to work...It may be some of the best enjoyment of owning a stove.
Have tried a full load /full firebox yet?

 

[treeguy270]

I have a Flame Monaco which is very similar to the Osburn EPA I version.

I asked SBI and they said it's safe if the power goes out while the stove's operating and the fan doesn't run. But I try to not do that on purpose. OTOH the fan on mine will stay running long after the fire's out until the stove is nearly dead cold, so I don't worry much about turning it off a little early.

That's good to hear. During a power outage would likely be the only time I would run without the blower going. My blower seems similar. It will run well after the fireplace seems cold. It can take a while to come on as well.

Noises are common, especially as your breaking the stove in and reaching new temperature maximums. It takes awhile to get used to hearing them, but IME they are perfectly OK. If your having a large hot fire I would run the fan. If having just a small fire I would be comfortable with not using the fan.
I promote you to fill the stove, turn the air intake all the way down when appropriate, have the fan running, and going to work...It may be some of the best enjoyment of owning a stove.
Have tried a full load /full firebox yet?

I sort of figured the noises were normal but it's nice to get a little confirmation. At some point I'm sure I'll be comfortable having it run while we're gone. I know it would be just fine, but we just got this house built and moved in a few months ago. It was a lot of work and I hate the thought of having to do it immediately again if something bad were to happen.

 

[NickW]

I also have the Stratford II up in the Northwoods. Yes, the loud bang from the "oil canning" can be a bit unnerving! It's especially bad if you go from cold to a rip snorter really quickly.

It takes a long time to heat up that much mass, so I usually turn the blower on manually when I start to get usable heat, then flip it to auto when it will stay running there so it turns off when the thermocouple cools off.

I have found that 12" splits loaded n/s burns better rather than standard 16" splits e/w even with "sleepers" under them. All wood for the fireplace up there gets cut to 12"+/- now.

 

[treeguy270]

I also have the Stratford II up in the Northwoods. Yes, the loud bang from the "oil canning" can be a bit unnerving! It's especially bad if you go from cold to a rip snorter really quickly.

It takes a long time to heat up that much mass, so I usually turn the blower on manually when I start to get usable heat, then flip it to auto when it will stay running there so it turns off when the thermocouple cools off.

I have found that 12" splits loaded n/s burns better rather than standard 16" splits e/w even with "sleepers" under them. All wood for the fireplace up there gets cut to 12"+/- now.

Yep, the first time I heard that bang was a bit concerning. It's nice to know it's not just my unit and is normal. Good to know about the firewood length. I've mostly got 18" length pieces on hand, but I did cut a few down to 12" and loaded them N/S. It did seem to run a little better since I could fit more in there without worrying about anything rolling towards the glass. Going forward I'll cut everything to 12".

I noticed that there are small gaps where the refractory panels come together that ash can slip into when scooping it out. Do you know where that ends up going? Do I need to occasionally remove the panels and clean out whatever is under there? The owners manual doesn't say anything about it.

 

[NickW]

I noticed that there are small gaps where the refractory panels come together that ash can slip into when scooping it out. Do you know where that ends up going? Do I need to occasionally remove the panels and clean out whatever is under there? The owners manual doesn't say anything about it.

It'll just pack in behind and fill the void. Wouldn't worry about it, can't get out of the air tight fire box. If you ever need to replace the panels you'll clean it out, but taking them out to clean behind just raises the risk of damaging them and it'll just fill up again.

 

[Drew777]

What kind of burn times did you guys get out of the Stratford II last season?

 

[NickW]

Weak coals after 8-10 hours of birch, cherry & black ash; strong coals with better stuff.

 

[Drew777]

Weak coals after 8-10 hours of birch, cherry & black ash; strong coals with better stuff.

Sounds good to me. My one customer needs a similar size unit and after a few weeks of shopping and research I'm pretty sure this will be the one we'll be going with.

 

[NickW]

Sounds good to me. My one customer needs a similar size unit and after a few weeks of shopping and research I'm pretty sure this will be the one we'll be going with.

Something that accepts 16" splits n/s would be worth investigating and may be worth spending additional $. My setup in new construction with the outside air definitely prefers n/s loads. I have been cutting to 12" lengths to accomplish this which is effective but isn't particularly convenient for stacking and probably won't be available for purchase.

 

[Drew777]

Yea been shopping for a while and anything larger seems to either not meet clearances or is out of their price range. I think the FPX 42 Apex would have been ideal but it's almost double the price

 

[Drew777]

Did any of you guys get the wall mounted fresh air intake control? What's the benefit of that is it worth it?

 

[NickW]

I did. I think it is. I used it a couple of times to slow the burn down by limiting the air it could pull in besides the intended purpose of stopping air circulation when not in use

 

[kborndale]

If you limited the amount of air that came in from outside wouldn't that air be replaced with air from the stove room and have no effect on air getting to the fire?

 

[NickW]

Not if the duct is well sealed at the point of attachment to the fireplace. It's a sealed unit. The only intake for it is where the duct is attached. If the oak damper is closed I'm sure some air will still be pulled past it and there will be some minimal seepage possibly, but it will certainly reduce the air in the case of approaching over fire.

 

[Drew777]

Yea I think when you purchase the unit they have knockouts for either room air or the oak. So if you only removed the one for the outside air the room air one should still be blocked off. I could be mistaken just seen that on other units.
Nick, do you have a really tall chimney? Would think the lowest air setting on the unit would be pretty sufficient to get a long burn time.

 

[NickW]

19' of flue. If I do everything right with quality wood I can get 8-10 hours. If I get distracted before I'm closed all the way and one takes off on me I have used the intake damper to help slow it down besides the air shut all the way. My best burn times are with the air all the way closed, but it usually takes a pretty long time to get it there. I wish I could have a flue probe in the class A.