Frustrated over stovepipe

[agz124]

The last step in installing my Quad 4300 is giving me some trouble. I bought 24 gauge single wall pipe (sold in 24 inch lengths and I need 29!). Anyway, I bought two pieces, did a really nice job cutting them with shears, popped them together (back to round) and now I can't get the #$@% pipe into the stove. After an hour of arm wrestling with it I finally got it in the stove but only about 1/2" of it is in. The crimped end appears as if it should go into the stove about an inch. Any ideas? I did put a piece of wood over it and tapped with my hand but no luck.

Also, do you guys use stovepipe cement on your joints?

 

[Hogwildz]

A stove collar might make that easier.

 

[GVA]

The last step in installing my Quad 4300 is giving me some trouble. I bought 24 gauge single wall pipe (sold in 24 inch lengths and I need 29!). Anyway, I bought two pieces, did a really nice job cutting them with shears, popped them together (back to round) and now I can't get the #$@% pipe into the stove. After an hour of arm wrestling with it I finally got it in the stove but only about 1/2" of it is in. The crimped end appears as if it should go into the stove about an inch. Any ideas? I did put a piece of wood over it and tapped with my hand but no luck.

Also, do you guys use stovepipe cement on your joints?

You could try getting a pair off hand crimpers and recrimping the end... to get a better taper for insertion.
But I'm sure the stove people will be here soon :red:

 

[agz124]

Please excuse my ignorance....but what is a stove collar? Got a link or pic?

 

[GVA]

DOH.........
I'm a slow typer......... :shut:

 

[BrotherBart]

Something is wrong here. That Quad has a good flue collar already made onto the stove. Sounds like you got ahold of some 22 gauge pipe. That would be a tight fit but it shouldn't be that tight.

Where did you get the pipe?

 

[nshif]

I just bought a 4300 Step top and it requires an adaptor for double wall stove pipe not sure if this is true for single wall but you might look into it. Thats the last place id want a leak.

 

[jtp10181]

I think the single wall usually the crimped end just fits right in. The DVL is not crimped so you need a stove adaptor with a crimped end to fit it in.

Should have just gotten one telescoping DVL pipe and a stove adaptor

 

[BrotherBart]

I think the single wall usually the crimped end just fits right in. The DVL is not crimped so you need a stove adaptor with a crimped end to fit it in.

Should have just gotten one telescoping DVL pipe and a stove adaptor

Except that if he can't get 24 ga. crimped single wall to go into it a stove adapter probably wouldn't either.

 

[KeithO]

That crimped end can be mighty tight. Try whacking on the piece of wood with a decent size mallet. The crimping will yield a little as it gets tighter and it should go in. Don't be in a hurry getting it back out though ! As someone else mentioned, a fluting pliers can be used to deepen the flutes and "shrink" the diameter a little to make it fit easier, but not everyone is a sheet metal worker and to buy one requires going to a speciality store like aircraft spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/pliertype.php

 

[agz124]

It is certainly 24 gauge (it is stamped). I bought it at my local quad dealer. I am sure that the mallet and wood would do the trick but concern is that forcing the crimped end in with make it more cone-like thus creating space between the inside of the collar (welded on the stove) and the outside of crimped end. Does that make any sense to anyone? Fortunately I am a Technology Education teacher (wood/metal shop) and I think there is an old pair of fluting pliers at school. But again my concern is, won't the deeper flutes create a space for the exhaust/flames to escape?

Stove pipe cement? if so, do you use it where the pipe meets the stove or just where you join pipe to pipe/elbow?

 

[BrotherBart]

I put a bead of furnace cement in the bottom of the flue collar and one in the female end of each joint. If you put it on the crimpled end some squeezes out and is ugly. If some does smear though it washes off with a wet rag while it is still wet. And don't forget the three sheet metal screws at each joint.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

check this out at duravent. com look on page 10 of this link for the "durablack stovetop adapter" its made for tight collars here is the link (broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/pdf/catalogs/durablack.pdf)

if you decide you want to go that route , let me know if you have trouble finding one, i have contacts at simpson , and if all else fails i have some in stock. (ill try to help you find one locally first)

 

[Hogwildz]

There are 2 stove adapters on this webpage. One tapers to 1/4" smaller than stove outlet, the other tapers to 3/8" smaller than stove outlet.

(broken link removed)

As B.B. stated, used some furnace cement at the stove outlet joint & each pipe joint. Id the pipe is drafting well, even with a gap, the smoke & gases should follow the draft up the pipe & out.

 

[Gooserider]

An item not mentioned - on some stoves the flue collar has a "shoulder" that acts as a stop when inserting the pipe. For some reason, this stop has often been shorter than the length of the crimps, which is NOT GOOD... Measure the depth of the seating area in the flue collar, and trim the crimped area to about 1/8" less. Put a bead of cement on the surface and tap the pipe in. If properly done, the ridge above the factory crimps should be touching the top edge of the collar. You definitely should NOT see any sign of the crimps! (Note that leaks in this area can cause over-firing problems)

Gooserider

 

[BrotherBart]

(Note that leaks in this area can cause over-firing problems)

Say what???

 

[stoveguy2esw]

(Note that leaks in this area can cause over-firing problems)

Say what???

ibid...

new one on me too.

 

[jtp10181]

I think the single wall usually the crimped end just fits right in. The DVL is not crimped so you need a stove adaptor with a crimped end to fit it in.

Should have just gotten one telescoping DVL pipe and a stove adaptor

Except that if he can't get 24 ga. crimped single wall to go into it a stove adapter probably wouldn't either.

Then there is something wrong with the stove, we install those all the time with the DVL stove adaptors and they slide right in.

 

[Gooserider]

(Note that leaks in this area can cause over-firing problems)

Say what???

ibid...

new one on me too.

We have had problems on the Hearth that involved stoves running to hot, having control problems, etc. that appeared to trace back to leaks at the stove collar - When this joint was fixed, the problems resolved or reduced in intensity. IIRC at least some of the stoves involved were VC Everburns, not sure if there were other models involved as well. I know my old smoke dragon had leaks in this area, and it's burning improved when I sealed them up.

Gooserider

 

[BrotherBart]

The improvement in your stove Goose was because sealing the leak(s) improves draft through the stove. Leaks at the flue collar are 100% guaranteed to just be sending cool air up the chimney, not through the stove for combustion. Thereby cooling the gases and flue walls and crudding up the chimney. Under 250 or so degrees those pipe walls are taking up a collection.

When the guys with the glowing Everburns sealed the collar they started pulling combustion air through that magic Everburn chamber. Like God, who lives in Bethel, Vemont intended. Which didn't stop the glowing. VC said the sucker could glow.

Not in my house it won't. Had a stove glow. Now it is a meat smoker.