First Milling Results - Cherry Slab

[golfandwoodnut]

I got a chance to try out the Alaskan Mill today attached to the 660 and a ripping chain. I was very impressed what can be accomplished in relatively short order. The wood is 12 foot long, 25 inches across, but iregular as cherry can be. The slabs are 2 inches thick. Shot of the remaining log, getting to the real nice stuff now.

Would welcome info on air drying, planning etc. that others may have experienced. Later I will determine if I will make dimiensonable lumber or use it as is.

 

[thewoodlands]

I got a chance to try out the Alaskan Mill today attached to the 660 and a ripping chain. I was very impressed what can be accomplished in relatively short order. The wood is 12 foot long, 25 inches across, but iregular as cherry can be. The slabs are 2 inches thick. Shot of the remaining log, getting to the real nice stuff now.

Would welcome info on air drying, planning etc. that others may have experienced. Later I will determine if I will make dimiensonable lumber or use it as is.

Looks good, did you think the 660 handled it good.





Zap

 

[rdust]

I've really been thinking about getting a mill and a big saw. If I had my own wood lot I probably would but with the inconsistency of finding good logs I don't think it would be worth it. Looks like it would be fun though!

 

[smokinj]

Coat the ends asap. I hot wax them. If your going to stack use lots of sticker will warp if you dont.

 

[certified106]

Sweet looking piece of Cherry

 

[Thistle]

Real purdy stuff there,Golf.One of my all time favs to work both with hand & machine tools.

 

[bogydave]

Cut boards 1-1/2" (6/4) thick to get 1" (4/4) planed boards. Shrink when dried & planer loss.
Stack flat with 1" strips between rows every 30".
Helps for straightness to re-stack after 8 months or so, flip boards over when re-stacking.
Dry for 1 year per inch thick of the board.
wax or enamel paint the ends.
Will plane good in a year or so. Planing wet is tough on planer; sap, water, rust etc.
Bark tough on planer knives , it has dirt in it.
With that bark & sap wood on there, gotta keep it real dry (mold/rot easy), shed with good air circulation is good.
If tarp covered, keep some head space for air.
Dad had a sawmill in WV.
PS: snakes love ricked stacks of boards! :bug: One reason I'm in Alaska, no snakes.

 

[woodchip]

I can see some nice grain there.
You'll be looking to make your own beeswax polish next!

 

[Mmaul]

Beautiful wood grain, would love to have a piece of that.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

I got a chance to try out the Alaskan Mill today attached to the 660 and a ripping chain. I was very impressed what can be accomplished in relatively short order. The wood is 12 foot long, 25 inches across, but iregular as cherry can be. The slabs are 2 inches thick. Shot of the remaining log, getting to the real nice stuff now.

Would welcome info on air drying, planning etc. that others may have experienced. Later I will determine if I will make dimiensonable lumber or use it as is.

Looks good, did you think the 660 handled it good.

Zap

As always, thanks for all the fast and accurate comments. I will have to wax or paint the ends quick, there is a little cracking already on one end as you can see on the log. I did cut the logs an extra 6 inches long to allow for some waste. I am building a pole barn this year so they will probably end up in their eventually. I will stack them under a tent for now.

The 660 worked great, I did burn alot of gas, well over a tank and it holds about 1/2 gallon. I would cut about 3 feet then squeeze some oil on the bar tip to help. I bought a Carlton Ripping chain and I have nothing to compare it to, but I was quite impressed. It was still cutting well after 3 times through the log, but I think I will try to hand touch it up before the next cutting. Also when the ground firms up I am going to use the Bobcat to raise the log(s) up on two big rounds to make it table height.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

Cut boards 1-1/2" (6/4) thick to get 1" (4/4) planed boards. Shrink when dried & planer loss.
Stack flat with 1" strips between rows every 30".
Helps for straightness to re-stack after 8 months or so, flip boards over when re-stacking.
Dry for 1 year per inch thick of the board.
wax or enamel paint the ends.
Will plane good in a year or so. Planing wet is tough on planer; sap, water, rust etc.
Bark tough on planer knives , it has dirt in it.
With that bark & sap wood on there, gotta keep it real dry (mold/rot easy), shed with good air circulation is good.
If tarp covered, keep some head space for air.
Dad had a sawmill in WV.
PS: snakes love ricked stacks of boards! :bug: One reason I'm in Alaska, no snakes.

Dave,
Thanks for all the good advice.

 

[remkel]

Father and brother constructed a new sugar shack this year- the whole frame and outer boards were done using lumber from the property and a chainsaw mill. Came out fantastic!

That Cherry looks, well, cherry. Keep it up!

 

[Cowboy Billy]

Looks Great G&WN; On your top row sticker it put some old boards on it and a row of firewood or something heavy to keep the top rows of boards from warping.

Billy

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Golf, is that the mill from Northern Tool?

 

[golfandwoodnut]

Golf, is that the mill from Northern Tool?

BS, That is one of the ones they sell, the Granberg Alaskan Mill III, I got the 36 inch. I must say I am quite impressed with the hardware. It came in alot of pieces, took maybe an hour to put together, but well worth the money at around $179 plus shipping. You mentioned it in the gear thread. It is nice to know that this was invented in the 1960s and still in use today with many happy customers.

Thanks again for all the advice, I bought some wax today, wondering how to keep it soft while I am painting the ends. Might have to start a campfire to keep it melted or use a torch. I am going to try to make some 1 inch boards next, cut to 1 and 1/2 inches and allow for shrinkage as Bogydave recommended. That is probably the most common size but I am assuming it may be harder to keep it from cupping. I have a total of three large logs of cherry and alot of straight Oak that is not as thick ready to go. I am not in a hurry, but I know it will take a year or three to season, and my wife is not to happy with the state of the yard since she wants to have a wedding shower by the end of July and I am also going to build a pole barn and of course golf and fish. Our property is turning into one of those kind of places that she is not found of. I am a computer programmer that is turning it to lumberjack/farmer.

 

[smokinj]

Golf, is that the mill from Northern Tool?

BS, That is one of the ones they sell, the Granberg Alaskan Mill III, I got the 36 inch. I must say I am quite impressed with the hardware. It came in alot of pieces, took maybe an hour to put together, but well worth the money at around $179 plus shipping. You mentioned it in the gear thread. It is nice to know that this was invented in the 1960s and still in use today with many happy customers.

Thanks again for all the advice, I bought some wax today, wondering how to keep it soft while I am painting the ends. Might have to start a campfire to keep it melted or use a torch. I am going to try to make some 1 inch boards next, cut to 1 and 1/2 inches and allow for shrinkage as Bogydave recommended. That is probably the most common size but I am assuming it may be harder to keep it from cupping. I have a total of three large logs of cherry and alot of straight Oak that is not as thick ready to go. I am not in a hurry, but I know it will take a year or three to season, and my wife is not to happy with the state of the yard since she wants to have a wedding shower by the end of July and I am also going to build a pole barn and of course golf and fish. Our property is turning into one of those kind of places that she is not found of. I am a computer programmer that is turning it to lumberjack/farmer.

I use a small crock pot...Use a paint brush and do the ends and up on the face of the board 6-8 inchs. You can do quit a few boards before you have to re-heat.. I would say a old pan would work as well.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

Thanks Jay. Do you buy your wax online? You can get it cheap that way, but you have to buy alot. I paid around $6 for a pound at the hardware store, I can 5 lbs for that amount online but have to buy about 25 lbs. to get that price or spend around ($25). Do you buy that much?

 

[smokinj]

Thanks Jay. Do you buy your wax online? You can get it cheap that way, but you have to buy alot. I paid around $6 for a pound at the hardware store, I can 5 lbs for that amount online but have to buy about 25 lbs. to get that price or spend around ($25). Do you buy that much?

We buy it hobby lobby 10lbs for around 14.00 10lbs last quit awhile. Well over 500 bf and counting. If you want to jump the gun and start building something you just re-coat any saw marks as you go.

 

[Thistle]

Golf, is that the mill from Northern Tool?

BS, That is one of the ones they sell, the Granberg Alaskan Mill III, I got the 36 inch. I must say I am quite impressed with the hardware. It came in alot of pieces, took maybe an hour to put together, but well worth the money at around $179 plus shipping. You mentioned it in the gear thread. It is nice to know that this was invented in the 1960s and still in use today with many happy customers.

Thanks again for all the advice, I bought some wax today, wondering how to keep it soft while I am painting the ends. Might have to start a campfire to keep it melted or use a torch. I am going to try to make some 1 inch boards next, cut to 1 and 1/2 inches and allow for shrinkage as Bogydave recommended. That is probably the most common size but I am assuming it may be harder to keep it from cupping. I have a total of three large logs of cherry and alot of straight Oak that is not as thick ready to go. I am not in a hurry, but I know it will take a year or three to season, and my wife is not to happy with the state of the yard since she wants to have a wedding shower by the end of July and I am also going to build a pole barn and of course golf and fish. Our property is turning into one of those kind of places that she is not found of. I am a computer programmer that is turning it to lumberjack/farmer.

Had mine since Aug 1993,first log I milled was 32" standing dead Red Elm,just under 10 ft to main fork.About 300 board feet total plus a bunch of shorter 4" X" 6" blocks,random 3" x 8" x 24" pieces & a few other odds & ends from some of the larger tops.Plus 6-7 p/u loads from rest of tops/branches.I couldnt live without it.It dont have that center 'grab handle' on the crossbar like newer models do,that looks handy,pardon the pun lol.Nice thing is the learning curve is quite rapid,you find out little tricks & shortcuts to make work easier,more productive & enjoyable,yet no less safe. Still dont have a Mini-Mill,they look good for edging & roughing out smaller logs,will be a nice companion,hope to grab one before summer's end.

 

[smokinj]

Golf, is that the mill from Northern Tool?

BS, That is one of the ones they sell, the Granberg Alaskan Mill III, I got the 36 inch. I must say I am quite impressed with the hardware. It came in alot of pieces, took maybe an hour to put together, but well worth the money at around $179 plus shipping. You mentioned it in the gear thread. It is nice to know that this was invented in the 1960s and still in use today with many happy customers.

Thanks again for all the advice, I bought some wax today, wondering how to keep it soft while I am painting the ends. Might have to start a campfire to keep it melted or use a torch. I am going to try to make some 1 inch boards next, cut to 1 and 1/2 inches and allow for shrinkage as Bogydave recommended. That is probably the most common size but I am assuming it may be harder to keep it from cupping. I have a total of three large logs of cherry and alot of straight Oak that is not as thick ready to go. I am not in a hurry, but I know it will take a year or three to season, and my wife is not to happy with the state of the yard since she wants to have a wedding shower by the end of July and I am also going to build a pole barn and of course golf and fish. Our property is turning into one of those kind of places that she is not found of. I am a computer programmer that is turning it to lumberjack/farmer.

Had mine since Aug 1993,first log I milled was 32" standing dead Red Elm,just under 10 ft to main fork.About 300 board feet total plus a bunch of shorter 4" X" 6" blocks,random 3" x 8" x 24" pieces & a few other odds & ends from some of the larger tops.Plus 6-7 p/u loads from rest of tops/branches.I couldnt live without it.Nice thing is the learning curve is quite rapid,you find out little tricks & shortcuts to make work easier,more productive & enjoyable,yet no less safe. Still dont have a Mini-Mill,they look good for edging & roughing out smaller logs,will be a nice companion,hope to grab one before summer's end.

sell you mine!

 

[golfandwoodnut]

Thanks Jay. Do you buy your wax online? You can get it cheap that way, but you have to buy alot. I paid around $6 for a pound at the hardware store, I can 5 lbs for that amount online but have to buy about 25 lbs. to get that price or spend around ($25). Do you buy that much?

We buy it hobby lobby 10lbs for around 14.00 10lbs last quit awhile. Well over 500 bf and counting. If you want to jump the gun and start building something you just re-coat any saw marks as you go.

I will check out the craft stores, or have my wife do that one. Thanks. So you do build somethings while the wood is somewhat green and then coat the ends is what you are saying?

 

[Thistle]

Golf, is that the mill from Northern Tool?

BS, That is one of the ones they sell, the Granberg Alaskan Mill III, I got the 36 inch. I must say I am quite impressed with the hardware. It came in alot of pieces, took maybe an hour to put together, but well worth the money at around $179 plus shipping. You mentioned it in the gear thread. It is nice to know that this was invented in the 1960s and still in use today with many happy customers.

Thanks again for all the advice, I bought some wax today, wondering how to keep it soft while I am painting the ends. Might have to start a campfire to keep it melted or use a torch. I am going to try to make some 1 inch boards next, cut to 1 and 1/2 inches and allow for shrinkage as Bogydave recommended. That is probably the most common size but I am assuming it may be harder to keep it from cupping. I have a total of three large logs of cherry and alot of straight Oak that is not as thick ready to go. I am not in a hurry, but I know it will take a year or three to season, and my wife is not to happy with the state of the yard since she wants to have a wedding shower by the end of July and I am also going to build a pole barn and of course golf and fish. Our property is turning into one of those kind of places that she is not found of. I am a computer programmer that is turning it to lumberjack/farmer.

Had mine since Aug 1993,first log I milled was 32" standing dead Red Elm,just under 10 ft to main fork.About 300 board feet total plus a bunch of shorter 4" X" 6" blocks,random 3" x 8" x 24" pieces & a few other odds & ends from some of the larger tops.Plus 6-7 p/u loads from rest of tops/branches.I couldnt live without it.Nice thing is the learning curve is quite rapid,you find out little tricks & shortcuts to make work easier,more productive & enjoyable,yet no less safe. Still dont have a Mini-Mill,they look good for edging & roughing out smaller logs,will be a nice companion,hope to grab one before summer's end.

sell you mine!

lol I've gotten quite good at 'freehanding' shorter/smaller logs from 10"-14" diameter ,up to 3'-4' long.I just use a sharpie and a straight 2 x4 or piece of angle iron or flatstock for a straightedge,if I dont sneeze ;-P I can usually stay within 1/8" or 1/4"of that line.Just remember to 'sway',keep feet planted in same spot,but rest of body moves,if that makes any sense.....Learned that's called the "Woodturner's Dance..."

If your feet change position,your cuts will wobble like a drunken politician haha

 

[smokinj]

Golf, is that the mill from Northern Tool?

BS, That is one of the ones they sell, the Granberg Alaskan Mill III, I got the 36 inch. I must say I am quite impressed with the hardware. It came in alot of pieces, took maybe an hour to put together, but well worth the money at around $179 plus shipping. You mentioned it in the gear thread. It is nice to know that this was invented in the 1960s and still in use today with many happy customers.

Thanks again for all the advice, I bought some wax today, wondering how to keep it soft while I am painting the ends. Might have to start a campfire to keep it melted or use a torch. I am going to try to make some 1 inch boards next, cut to 1 and 1/2 inches and allow for shrinkage as Bogydave recommended. That is probably the most common size but I am assuming it may be harder to keep it from cupping. I have a total of three large logs of cherry and alot of straight Oak that is not as thick ready to go. I am not in a hurry, but I know it will take a year or three to season, and my wife is not to happy with the state of the yard since she wants to have a wedding shower by the end of July and I am also going to build a pole barn and of course golf and fish. Our property is turning into one of those kind of places that she is not found of. I am a computer programmer that is turning it to lumberjack/farmer.

Had mine since Aug 1993,first log I milled was 32" standing dead Red Elm,just under 10 ft to main fork.About 300 board feet total plus a bunch of shorter 4" X" 6" blocks,random 3" x 8" x 24" pieces & a few other odds & ends from some of the larger tops.Plus 6-7 p/u loads from rest of tops/branches.I couldnt live without it.Nice thing is the learning curve is quite rapid,you find out little tricks & shortcuts to make work easier,more productive & enjoyable,yet no less safe. Still dont have a Mini-Mill,they look good for edging & roughing out smaller logs,will be a nice companion,hope to grab one before summer's end.

sell you mine!

lol I've gotten quite good at 'freehanding' shorter/smaller logs from 10"-14" diameter ,up to 3'-4' long.I just use a sharpie and a straight 2 x4 or piece of angle iron or flatstock for a straightedge,if I dont sneeze ;-P I can usually stay within 1/8" or 1/4"of that line.Just remember to 'sway',keep feet planted in same spot,but rest of body moves,if that makes any sense.....Learned that's called the "Woodturner's Dance..."

If your feet change position,your cuts will wobble like a drunken politician haha

Thats much stronger than a mini mill lol

 

[golfandwoodnut]

Thistle, are you saying you just use a circular saw to cut the straight edge? That is what I was thinking, then I could run it through a router if necessary to further straighten. I am having trouble visualizing your sway though. Lol.

 

[smokinj]

Thistle, are you saying you just use a circular saw to cut the straight edge? That is what I was thinking, then I could run it through a router if necessary to further straighten. I am having trouble visualizing your sway though. Lol.

Cicular saw chaulk line here... Want Any strighter just use an edger.