660 Milling White Pine

[thewoodlands]

Finally dropped the pine and did some milling, we did a nine foot section then a seven foot section from the same tree. I decided to go 1.75 inches thick.

Left the aux. oiler off today but next time will put it on if we use the 36 inch bar. I would have gone with a smaller bar but only have ripping chains for the 36 inch.

Attached are some pictures that my wife took, she was the helper today and did a great job. The composite shims doubled up worked great.

zap

 

[Thistle]

Great stuff Zap. You're on the way now & there's no turning back! :coolgrin: Havent milled any pine,fir or spruce yet,but have a small amount of Eastern Red Cedar & an salvaged 80yr old Western Cedar telephone pole Qwest left for me - sure works fast & much easier than the various hardwoods I'm usually cutting.

 

[smokinj]

Pretty darn good for your first run. Consistent perssure and don't swing the mill any even if you feel its stuck on something. Normally just a nut keep the same pressure on.

All and all thats a Awesome first run! :cheese:

 

[thewoodlands]

Great stuff Zap. You're on the way now & there's no turning back! :coolgrin: Havent milled any pine,fir or spruce yet,but have a small amount of Eastern Red Cedar & an salvaged 80yr old Western Cedar telephone pole Qwest left for me - sure works fast & much easier than the various hardwoods I'm usually cutting.

I went good for our first time milling. George Brett thought he had alot of pine tar on his bat when they tossed him in yankee stadium..........he never milled pine.

I need to get the logs higher off the ground so looking for some ideas, have any?


zap

 

[smokinj]

Great stuff Zap. You're on the way now & there's no turning back! :coolgrin: Havent milled any pine,fir or spruce yet,but have a small amount of Eastern Red Cedar & an salvaged 80yr old Western Cedar telephone pole Qwest left for me - sure works fast & much easier than the various hardwoods I'm usually cutting.

I went good for our first time milling. George Brett thought he had alot of pine tar on his bat when they tossed him in yankee stadium..........he never milled pine.

I need to get the logs higher off the ground so looking for some ideas, have any?


zap

Yea ramps and roll or winch it up onto a platform.

 

[thewoodlands]

Great stuff Zap. You're on the way now & there's no turning back! :coolgrin: Havent milled any pine,fir or spruce yet,but have a small amount of Eastern Red Cedar & an salvaged 80yr old Western Cedar telephone pole Qwest left for me - sure works fast & much easier than the various hardwoods I'm usually cutting.

I went good for our first time milling. George Brett thought he had alot of pine tar on his bat when they tossed him in yankee stadium..........he never milled pine.

I need to get the logs higher off the ground so looking for some ideas, have any?


zap

Yea ramps and roll or winch it up onto a platform.

Have the winch what do you use for the platform?

zap

 

[thewoodlands]

Great stuff Zap. You're on the way now & there's no turning back! :coolgrin: Havent milled any pine,fir or spruce yet,but have a small amount of Eastern Red Cedar & an salvaged 80yr old Western Cedar telephone pole Qwest left for me - sure works fast & much easier than the various hardwoods I'm usually cutting.

I went good for our first time milling. George Brett thought he had alot of pine tar on his bat when they tossed him in yankee stadium..........he never milled pine.

I need to get the logs higher off the ground so looking for some ideas, have any?


zap

Yea ramps and roll or winch it up onto a platform.

When I left work on Friday I grabbed the wrong folder that I had info on milling, how much will I lose because of drying with this pine?

zap

 

[smokinj]

Great stuff Zap. You're on the way now & there's no turning back! :coolgrin: Havent milled any pine,fir or spruce yet,but have a small amount of Eastern Red Cedar & an salvaged 80yr old Western Cedar telephone pole Qwest left for me - sure works fast & much easier than the various hardwoods I'm usually cutting.

I went good for our first time milling. George Brett thought he had alot of pine tar on his bat when they tossed him in yankee stadium..........he never milled pine.

I need to get the logs higher off the ground so looking for some ideas, have any?


zap

Yea ramps and roll or winch it up onto a platform.

When I left work on Friday I grabbed the wrong folder that I had info on milling, how much will I lose because of drying with this pine?

zap

More just looseing weight than size.

 

[thewoodlands]

I thought you lost some in thickness from when you milled it to the time it was dry.

zap

 

[smokinj]

I thought you lost some in thickness from when you milled it to the time it was dry.

zap

Nope what ever you set the mill to is pretty close to what you get. If planning you would give it an extra 1/4 inch.

 

[amateur cutter]

Nice! Way to go.

 

[thewoodlands]

Nice! Way to go.

Thanks AC, here are some pine we want to mill.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/74879/

zap

 

[jebatty]

I thought you lost some in thickness from when you milled it to the time it was dry.

zap

Nope what ever you set the mill to is pretty close to what you get. If planning you would give it an extra 1/4 inch.

Pretty optimistic to say no shrinkage in thickness. At 1.75" rough cut, if very accurate, it's going to be difficult to end up with 1.5" planed finish thickness, might end up with 1.5" rough cut when dry. Shrinkage in length is very low, but I usually cut lengths 4" longer than finish length to allow for end trimming, as end splits are not unusual.

Soon you may be looking a sawmill. I cut about 4-5000 bd ft/yr with my Woodmizer. Sweet lumber. Good luck on your milling.

 

[smokinj]

I thought you lost some in thickness from when you milled it to the time it was dry.

zap

Nope what ever you set the mill to is pretty close to what you get. If planning you would give it an extra 1/4 inch.

Pretty optimistic to say no shrinkage in thickness. At 1.75" rough cut, if very accurate, it's going to be difficult to end up with 1.5" planed finish thickness, might end up with 1.5" rough cut when dry. Shrinkage in length is very low, but I usually cut lengths 4" longer than finish length to allow for end trimming, as end splits are not unusual.

Soon you may be looking a sawmill. I cut about 4-5000 bd ft/yr with my Woodmizer. Sweet lumber. Good luck on your milling.

Optimistic, Always, but have never notice a thickness lose after drying. 2-3/4 inch is a pretty common number I use for table top balck watnut. After a year of drying there still 2-3/4's....This is with sealed ends. Checking and water lose is common.

Your always going to lose a 1/4-1/2 on planning and sanding. This is rough framing lumbar zap is doing 1/4 inch doesn't mean much on.....When your not planning.......... ;-)

We are talking losing thickness to air drying.....WE ARE NOT Talking losing thickness to PLANNING AND SANDING! ;-)

 

[Cowboy Billy]

Looks great Zap

I was surprised at how smooth the finish was I didn't realize a CSM cut that nice!

Billy

 

[smokinj]

Looks great Zap

I was surprised at how smooth the finish was I didn't realize a CSM cut that nice!

Billy

If your not getting nice boards your doing something wrong. So much going on thats easy enough to hack a piece up if your dont working it right.

 

[jebatty]

We'll just have to disagree on shrinkage of white pine during drying. The Dry Kiln Operator's Manual, USDA, shows for eastern white pine that average shrinkage to 20% MC is 0.7% radial and 2% tangential. Typical air drying would be in the 16-20% range, depending upon ambient conditions. If to be used for furniture, table top, flooring, etc., 6% MC would be a typical target, and then shrinkage is 1.7% radial and 4.9% tangential, which translates to about 1/10" tangential for 2" rough cut green, but for a face cut tangential board of 12", that is a little more than 1/2". For many purposes shrinkage may not be significant, but for some purposes, it makes a real difference.

You will really enjoy your CSM. The first white pine tree I turned into lumber ended up providing 18" wide boards which made spectacular flooring for our bedroom -- get many comments on where we found boards like that. We just smile, and then I tell people I can show them the stump if they really want to see where those boards came from.

 

[Cowboy Billy]

Looks great Zap

I was surprised at how smooth the finish was I didn't realize a CSM cut that nice!

Billy

If your not getting nice boards your doing something wrong. So much going on thats easy enough to hack a piece up if your dont working it right.

Jay I freehanded a few boards but never tied it with a ripping chain just my full chisel.

Billy

 

[smokinj]

Looks great Zap

I was surprised at how smooth the finish was I didn't realize a CSM cut that nice!

Billy

If your not getting nice boards your doing something wrong. So much going on thats easy enough to hack a piece up if your dont working it right.

Jay I freehanded a few boards but never tied it with a ripping chain just my full chisel.

Billy

If you cut that chain at 10 degrees it smooth right out. Stopping and starting and or wiggling the mill will cause line and give you a rougher surface. With just a little practice and knowing what the rough parts in your board says you can correct it and really start producing high quality cabinet boards.

 

[smokinj]

We'll just have to disagree on shrinkage of white pine during drying. The Dry Kiln Operator's Manual, USDA, shows for eastern white pine that average shrinkage to 20% MC is 0.7% radial and 2% tangential. Typical air drying would be in the 16-20% range, depending upon ambient conditions. If to be used for furniture, table top, flooring, etc., 6% MC would be a typical target, and then shrinkage is 1.7% radial and 4.9% tangential, which translates to about 1/10" tangential for 2" rough cut green, but for a face cut tangential board of 12", that is a little more than 1/2". For many purposes shrinkage may not be significant, but for some purposes, it makes a real difference.

You will really enjoy your CSM. The first white pine tree I turned into lumber ended up providing 18" wide boards which made spectacular flooring for our bedroom -- get many comments on where we found boards like that. We just smile, and then I tell people I can show them the stump if they really want to see where those boards came from.

I seal all my wood with beewax and cut 1/4 heavy. Never notice a bit of thickness lose on the drying side with what I do. Sure pine is different but really don't think making 2x4 that your going to be able to play the shrinkage game in any consistency. I would break my cant's into what I need and go from there. (2x4 2x6 stock)

Now if I was on a 36 inch black walnut I would go with a 1/4 to 1/2 in thicker. If I was worried about it, I would on pine to, but really just pick a number and roll with it and keep that number constant. Then it comes down to, do you want to match the big box standard stock or a real 2x4 stock. Either way pick one. Your always going to off a little some where. Even big box store lumbar will not be perfect either.

 

[thewoodlands]

Smokin; I stopped in the Wood Chop Shop this morning and found out I have a free bar (20 inch) and chain coming.... when I picked the 660 up the 20 inch bar was off it.

I have two 20's already so I had them order a 25 inch for milling some of the smaller stuff and I'll pay the difference.


zap

 

[smokinj]

Smokin; I stopped in the Wood Chop Shop this morning and found out I have a free bar (20 inch) and chain coming.... when I picked the 660 up the 20 inch bar was off it.

I have two 20's already so I had them order a 25 inch for milling some of the smaller stuff and I'll pay the difference.


zap

That will help on those smaller ones. Wish that would happen to me! :lol:

 

[thewoodlands]

Smokin; I stopped in the Wood Chop Shop this morning and found out I have a free bar (20 inch) and chain coming.... when I picked the 660 up the 20 inch bar was off it.

I have two 20's already so I had them order a 25 inch for milling some of the smaller stuff and I'll pay the difference.


zap

That will help on those smaller ones. Wish that would happen to me! :lol:

I was just happy getting the saw I never even thought about the bar because I had ordered the 36 inch for milling, then she said what about your free chain, Monday started off good.

zap

 

[smokinj]

Smokin; I stopped in the Wood Chop Shop this morning and found out I have a free bar (20 inch) and chain coming.... when I picked the 660 up the 20 inch bar was off it.

I have two 20's already so I had them order a 25 inch for milling some of the smaller stuff and I'll pay the difference.


zap

That will help on those smaller ones. Wish that would happen to me! :lol:

I was just happy getting the saw I never even thought about the bar because I had ordered the 36 inch for milling, then she said what about your free chain, Monday started off good.

zap

so you have a 16,20,25,28,36?

 

[thewoodlands]

Smokin; I stopped in the Wood Chop Shop this morning and found out I have a free bar (20 inch) and chain coming.... when I picked the 660 up the 20 inch bar was off it.

I have two 20's already so I had them order a 25 inch for milling some of the smaller stuff and I'll pay the difference.


zap

That will help on those smaller ones. Wish that would happen to me! :lol:

I was just happy getting the saw I never even thought about the bar because I had ordered the 36 inch for milling, then she said what about your free chain, Monday started off good.

zap

so you have a 16,20,25,28,36?

& 18.