IN NEED OF HELP Connecting chimney liner to class A in attic where the chimney no longer goes throug

[kscowboy]

the install i will be doing will require me to connect class A to chimney liner. The local dealer showed me one and said it would have to be sealed off. I believe what was talking about was pouring the cement mix in the chimney with the liner instead of insulating the liner does this sound right as the filler will cost about 800 as aposed to 275 for insulation kit. here is a picture of what i have in the attic the red is the chimney and the line above is the roof line

 

[begreen]

I'm a bit confused about the current chimney. Can you describe what is currently in place and what is the installation plan? Is the attic chimney masonry? Where does the class A come into play?

Or better yet, maybe pick up on the previously asked questions:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/49579/

 

[kscowboy]

the chimney is brick the privous owner removed it from the roof and the picture above show kind of what is left would have to put a whole in the roof would assume the class at is required to go through the roof

 

[begreen]

If it's in bad shape the installer could be trying to stabilize it. Does the old chimney have a tile liner or is it just brick?

 

[kscowboy]

just brick and mortor i am tying to save money without risking saftey had one installer form out of town give a blind estimate of about 2000 the local one quoted me about that with just parts me doing the labor they would sell me homesaver liner not sure about the other company

 

[fossil]

So...the house had a brick chimney that extended normally above the roof, and then a previous owner tore off the portion of the chimney above the roof anf roofed over the old opening, leaving the original chimney up through the house/attic to the underside of the roof? Is that what's going on? Is the vertical red in your diagram the brick chimney in the attic? Rick

 

[kscowboy]

That is correct the chimney (red part) from the opening in the basment to the top in the atic is about 35 to 40 foot just mesured with fishing string and a wrench what a redneck i am. at the very top it is at angle as in the picture will have to go back through the roof not sure what is needed there also

 

[jtp10181]

I would bust the bricks down a little lower so you have some room, and also level it off. Then you need a liner system that can be adapted to Class A pipe. Simpson duravent I know makes a transition anchor plate. It mounts to the top of the old chimney and has a slip section thing that you can connect to the liner. One the top it has an anchor plate for Class A. Not sure what other brands of venting might offer.

 

[kscowboy]

I found that piece you talked about here is a picture. The local dealer had a connector like this and said if i used it would have to fill in the chimeny instead of liner instulation does this sound right thank for all you help

 

[jtp10181]

Never heard of having to fill the old chimney. If we were to do it, we would just use the insulation wrap. The Simpson part is made to use with their rigid duraliner, but I bet it could be made to work with a flex liner.

Ask him why you have to use pour insulation to fill it, as opposed to a wrap. He might not have an answer...

 

[kscowboy]

there is about a 600 dollar from the wrap to filling in the whole chimney

 

[kscowboy]

Does any one know of a connector that connect the flex liner to class a

 

[fossil]

Does any one know of a connector that connect the flex liner to class a

Seems to me that's what that little diagram is showing you. "DuraLiner" is your chimney liner, and "Chimney Section" is (I'm assuming) Class A chimney. Rick

 

[kscowboy]

After the conection how much room does the class a need from wood and how big of a whole is need for it to pass through the roof

 

[begreen]

Class A needs at least 2" clearance from any combustible. The hole size will be oval, at least 10" wide. The length will depend on the pitch of the roof. I'm guessing a 6/12 roof would be about 13"?

 

[kscowboy]

So i would cut the hole then install a roof vent flashing and pass the class a through it install the storm caller and rain cap

 

[kscowboy]

Looks like the chimney guy said chimney was good told my wife after the inspection he would work up an estimate both way them instllng and me instaling will have to see this was quoted by them a guess of $2000 for parts alone a week ago

 

[annette]

I would actually want 2 separate companies to inspect that chimney before I installed anything in it--or take lots of pictures and get some chimney experts here to comment. I just can't imagine someone partially tearing down a good chimney, it seems that would be done if it were unstable, they were reroofing, and didn't want to repair the chimney.

 

[kscowboy]

The big town next to us only has on full time company and they have a very good reputaion. I talked to them after work and he said that structure was good but a lot of the mortar is worn said would need to lined and insulated

 

[TreePapa]

I know Kansas ain't earthquake country, but I'd sure want to know WHY that chimney was tore down before puttin' any money into it. In these parts, chimney is usually tore down 'cuz it's unstable and owner is too cheap to tear down all the way and replace. Usally on rentals.

Good luck.

Peace,
- Sequoia

 

[kscowboy]

My best guess would be the expensive of repair at to tear it down the roof on the house was a year old and was done by the previous owner himself they took down all three out of the roof one all the way to the basment and one just about 2 foot from the attic and the other just below the attic floor