Stove Pipe install question??

[rschuerholz]

I got a hold of a small boxwood style stove for free and am planning on installing it in my 12 x 14 shed. I would like to know what the simplest (and cheapest) way is to vent the pipe. If I go trough the roof what are the minimun items i need for this. Its a small shed with 2x4 exposed lumber roof trussess. thanks

 

[RustyShackleford]

I got a hold of a small boxwood style stove for free and am planning on installing it in my 12 x 14 shed. I would like to know what the simplest (and cheapest) way is to vent the pipe. If I go trough the roof what are the minimun items i need for this. Its a small shed with 2x4 exposed lumber roof trussess. thanks

Hmm, well, the official answer is that you need stuff called "Class A chimney pipe"
(double-walled, with a 1" thick gap filled with special insulation) made by companies
called Selkirk and Simpson (your choice, I like the former more). It is expensive.
You need to use it as soon as your stovepipe gets within 18" or so of anything
combustible, and then on up through the roof and up a few more feet. From your
stove to there, you can use regular (single-wall) stovepipe, available at most any
farm supply or hardware store. Maybe you can find some used Class A pipe on
criaglist or something, but check it carefully.

*IF*, and this is a big gigantic IF ... it will not REALLY mess up your life (cost you
hundreds or thousands of dollars), or destroy any possessions you truly cherish,
or hurt any person or other living thing you cherish - that is, if it's not a huge deal
if the shed burns down, then you may be able to fudge a little on using this Class A
stuff. Like MAYBE if the trusses are 24" apart, MAYBE you can go halfway between
them, and then MAYBE through the roof with a thing called a "thimble". That's all I'm
going to say - already lawyers are making plans to string me up by my testicles ...

I think there may be a FAQ or "wiki" in this site, which might tell you more.

 

[jtp10181]

Is the stove UL listed, whats the clearances on it? It should have a rating plate on it stating clearances. If not, then technically the stove needs to be 36" from any combustible walls, which does not usually put it in a very good location.

 

[rschuerholz]

No, not UL listed, indicates 36 inches on all sides to combustibles. How realistic is this 36 inches, could I get away with say 20 inches. This stove is not going to be left unattended for hours on end.

 

[humpin iron]

20" ain't 36", there's a reason for those pesky recommendations.

 

[Hogwildz]

12 x 14 shed, hell just get a portable electric oil filled.

 

[jtp10181]

The 36" is a generic number that someone (some organization / testing lab?) decided would be safe for any unlisted stove ever created. At what distance is your stove safe? Dunno, cause it has no rating plate with clearances, which is why you default to the 36" number, it is known to be safe.

 

[dougand3]

If your shed burned down, would you want homeowner's insurance to cover it? The insurance inspector would probably take a close look at your setup - if you are outside codes on clearance to combustibles - suspect it would be denied. I would bet a kerosene heater would warm it up in 28 minutes - even better than a Magic Heat with a duraflame log.

 

[n6crv]

12 x 14 shed, hell just get a portable electric oil filled.

I just use a kerosene heater in my 10x20 shed and it does fine. You will save money in the long run.

 

[Highbeam]

Dang that kerosene is expensive, the heater is like 125$ bucks too. I sold my kero heater last year and call it a learning experience. Currently you are much much better off buying one of those propane heaters for way less money and using your BBQ tank to feed it.

12x14 shed, that's like a bathroom. What do you do in this shed for so long that you need heat? Is it a cabin or ice fishing shack?