Replacing nuts and bolts.....?

[Stoverly^]

Hello,

I have a question regarding my 1984 VC Resolute wood stove.

When replacing the stovepipe this weekend, I found that there were 6 allen screws with nuts on the back, 2 of which had seemingly disappeared.

My question is – where can I find replacement hardware and if not application-specific, what grade hardware (material and classification) would be acceptable for use in a wood stove? Should I be replacing all nuts & bolts here with new ones?

Thanks!

 

[homebrewz]

In the process of working on a VC stove, I got a lot of good advice on stuck bolts:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/4051/

Take an example to your local hardware store and have them match up the right replacements for you. Use stainless steel bolts as a replacement.

Good Luck

 

[GVA]

Unfortunatly SHCS usually dont have grade markings on them.
If they are stainless steel the rule of thumb is usually #12 and under are grade 18-8. 1/4" and up are usually grade 316
HHCS are a bit easier as the stainless grade is usually stamped on the head, While steel ones use a series of lines just add 2 to the # of lines and that is your grade..ie: 3 lines is grade 5...... 6 lines is grade 8 etc.
Sorry guy's
SHCS= socket head cap screws (these take allen wrenches)
HHCS= Hex head cap screws
hope this helps

 

[Stoverly^]

Here's a pic of the screws in question....

(broken image removed)

I assume that the tapered head is a standard size, i.e. can replace with whatever in a stainless or grade 8 from the hardware store....? I want it to seat properly in the recess for the screw head.

 

[GVA]

Here's a pic of the screws in question....

(broken image removed)

I assume that the tapered head is a standard size, i.e. can replace with whatever in a stainless or grade 8 from the hardware store....? I want it to seat properly in the recess for the screw head.

He He He yeah right....
most are the same but not all depending on size 65* or 80* (I think.... it may be 82*)
Those are FHCS= Flat head Cap Screws
They look like 1/4-20 bolts which would take a 5/32" allen wrench (yeah read the signiture below about the useless knowledge)

Go stainless most likley you'll only get an 18-8 at a hardware store (18-8 is known as 304 series) should be enough for what you need and bring the old one with you you can see the difference in the countersink head when you hold a 80* next to a 65*.

 

[nshif]

looks like a standard flathead. probably a 10-32 if its sae (American) or a 8 or 10 mm (metric) if thats a regular sized paperclip. So what your after is a FHSCS (flat head socket cap screw)
look for stainless 316 you wont find grade 8. but any stainless should do unless its in the fire box.

 

[GVA]

looks like a standard flathead. probably a 10-32 if its sae (American) or a 8 or 10 mm (metric) if thats a regular sized paperclip. So what your after is a FHSCS (flat head socket cap screw)
look for stainless 316 you wont find grade 8. but any stainless should do unless its in the fire box.

Oops sorry I left out the S for socket
I thought 1/4-20 by the CD cases in the back
Your metric is off though 8mm is about 3/8" and 10mm is almost 7/16" ;-)

 

[nshif]

oppppps your right, probably a M6 or so, 8 looks like a 1/4 or better

 

[Stoverly^]

Thanks for all of the great advice! I will bring the screws to ye olde hardware just to get a match on the thread type, if not to find a direct match.

When you say 65* or 80* what does that refer to, I am guessing something with the rate of taper on the head...?

The screws are going to be exposed to very high heat, i.e. holding the flue outlet to the firebox.

What was funny was that when I went to go unscrew the screws, they seemed 'stripped' in that there was not much turn on them. What I found out was that there was no thread, and having looked at where the holes were in the stove, the marking of what used to be a washer. Fishing through the ashes I found 2 washers with a bit of thread on them. One seemed to have been cooking in there for a while because it was white, the other I think just had fallen out. The other 2 were nowhere to be found, i am thinking they were long gone.

It's funny how one thing leads to another and I feel like a dope for letting the stove get this out of kilter. I am going to scour this forum for more info as I prepare to fire it up for the winter.

 

[GVA]

Thanks for all of the great advice! I will bring the screws to ye olde hardware just to get a match on the thread type, if not to find a direct match.

When you say 65* or 80* what does that refer to, I am guessing something with the rate of taper on the head...?

The screws are going to be exposed to very high heat, i.e. holding the flue outlet to the firebox.

What was funny was that when I went to go unscrew the screws, they seemed 'stripped' in that there was not much turn on them. What I found out was that there was no thread, and having looked at where the holes were in the stove, the marking of what used to be a washer. Fishing through the ashes I found 2 washers with a bit of thread on them. One seemed to have been cooking in there for a while because it was white, the other I think just had fallen out. The other 2 were nowhere to be found, i am thinking they were long gone.

It's funny how one thing leads to another and I feel like a dope for letting the stove get this out of kilter. I am going to scour this forum for more info as I prepare to fire it up for the winter.

The * is degrees and yes in this case it would be the taper of the screw or more importantly the countersink that was used on the stove...
Regardless of the material, Stainless or grade 8 steel you should use a good high temp anti-sieze compound on the threads at reassembly.......
and just for Sh!&$ and Giggles........ What size allen wrench did you use?
1/8" = #10
5/32" = 1/4-20 or 28
3/16" = 5/16-18 or 24

 

[Stoverly^]

That is what I figured...about the degrees.

I'd check what size screw exept I am typing this from bed. Major case of "weekend houework hangover"!