Harman TL300 Question

[idget]

I just bought a Harman TL300 wood stove a few weeks ago and I want to make sure I am using it right. I know I am not since I see smoke coming out of my chimney. I had a few woodstoves such as a Morso and Jotul and Timberline but the harmon burns differently than my old non-cats:

How hot do you have to get the stove and stove pipe before engaging the AB? How long does this take before closing damper and engaging AB?
The manual states to open damper and air intake all the way but it gets way too hot. Can I close the air intake down a bit when the damper is open to control more.
How do you know when the AB is properly functioning?
How much wood can you load in the wood stove to get long burns?

Any help in using this stove would be most helpful

Thank you

Idget

 

[MishMouse]

IDGET, try viewing this thread https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/24612/
It contains allot of info on the TL-300 and has multiple users of this stove posting in this thread.

 

[cyclone]

I have also been experimenting and trying alot of the different methods suggessted on how to burn this stove.

So far at times it has been a struggle.

I check my chimney for smoke and it good be a good indicator. At times I see no smoke and stove running smoothly. The stove usually cruises at 375 when no smoke.

Other times all indications of the stove in AB smoke coming from chimney. Stove temps around 375-450 with the occasisonal wooshing in the firebox.

I wonder if it is steam coming from the chimney at times. It is white and vanishes about 2ft above chimney.

Sometimes I wonder if my AB system is broke and not working properly.

 

[MishMouse]

I have also been experimenting and trying alot of the different methods suggessted on how to burn this stove.

So far at times it has been a struggle.

I check my chimney for smoke and it good be a good indicator. At times I see no smoke and stove running smoothly. The stove usually cruises at 375 when no smoke.

Other times all indications of the stove in AB smoke coming from chimney. Stove temps around 375-450 with the occasisonal wooshing in the firebox.

I wonder if it is steam coming from the chimney at times. It is white and vanishes about 2ft above chimney.

Sometimes I wonder if my AB system is broke and not working properly.

If it is white and it vanishes quickly it is steam.
If it is brown or greyish then it is smoke.

 

[ddklahr]

We are now roughly 2 months into using our TL300. Depending upon how the wood is placed in the stove, we get our stove top temperature up to around 550 degrees and close the by-pass damper, wait about 5 minutes and then move the air control lever down to about the 3rd notch. Our stove will normally burn for roughly 5-8 hours and keep the temps anywhere from 350-500 degrees. As far as knowing when the after burning is working, I look for the lack of smoke out the chimney as well as the faint "jet engine" sound coming from the stove. If we add more wood with the temperature much higher (400-450), it may not take as long to close the by-pass. At that point, there is a very loud jet sound (almost scary!). You definately know that it is operating correctly then.

We have had 5-10 days of single digit highs this winter, and we have been able to keep our 2500 sq. ft. farmhouse right around 70 degrees or better. It takes more wood and fillings, but we really love the stove so far. There is definately a learning curve with this stove, but worth it when you figure it out.

 

[idget]

Thanks for all the info and I did check the earlier discussion which were very helpful. I think one of the difficulties was fact that a flew liner was not installed in my masonary chimney. I had an inspection by a very rep chimney sweep and they recommended and I am installing a flue liner. I was told this was required and would help draft since I was going from a 6inch stove pipe to a larger masonary chimney. Also he told me I had third stage glaze in the flue.

 

[stanleyjohn]

I understand what your going through with your stove!I have the TL 200 which is the insert version of the TL300.Good seasoned dry wood is the secret of getting a downdraft type stove to work well.My first load i burn with the damper open and the air flow control about have way out.I tend to leave the door open a crack for the first 10 min or so (don't leave open without watching!!) to prevent any smoke from smoking up the glass.After the first load burns to a good amount of hot coals i reload the stove (3 or more splits)and after a few mins ill close the damper and shut down the air flow 3 quarter's of the way and the afterburner works well (most of the time).My stove thermometer which is next to the front door reads around 350 to 400 when the stove is cooking well.The only real problem i have with my stove is keeping the glass clean!im thinking this is because my wood isn't as well seasoned as i thought.Best wishes with your new stove and feel keep in touch on how its working out. Stan

 

[idget]

The flue liner made a real big difference in using the stove. It still takes a while to start from a cold start to get the AB working (1 hr), but I have had good luck getting it into AB after that. A great stove after the first hour start up. It is quite finicky in the begining stage, but I like how the heat is very even and doesn't overheat. My last stove was a Jotul and while I did like it, it tended to get out of control at times.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

I have also been experimenting and trying alot of the different methods suggessted on how to burn this stove.

So far at times it has been a struggle.

I check my chimney for smoke and it good be a good indicator. At times I see no smoke and stove running smoothly. The stove usually cruises at 375 when no smoke.

Other times all indications of the stove in AB smoke coming from chimney. Stove temps around 375-450 with the occasisonal wooshing in the firebox.

I wonder if it is steam coming from the chimney at times. It is white and vanishes about 2ft above chimney.

Sometimes I wonder if my AB system is broke and not working properly.

-----------------
I have developed several surefire ways (with the help of mishmouse,firefighter29,and otheres on this forum)to tell if the AB is working 1. Stack the wood as to create a tunnel so you can see the AB chamber.
2. When working (AB)the top of the metal shroud at the back of the stove will become too hot to touch.
3. When your AB is starting up from cold there wll be a series of noises,ting,ting,ting like metal expanding from heat.
4. Also when it first starts up(and when reloading) you will still get steam out of your chimney until the moisture burns out of
the wood for short time (what looks like white smoke but dissapears quickly)
5. tempwise i use a temp gauge on top of the loading door and 500-550 when starting up from cold I engage Ab,when the stove is fairly hot 450 is enough to maintain AB perpormance,anthing below 400 the AB may stall.

 

[cyclone]

Do you have a fresh air kit on your stove. Does anyone that owns a TL 300 have a hook up of OAK to your stove. Does this help with its performace.

 

[MishMouse]

Do you have a fresh air kit on your stove. Does anyone that owns a TL 300 have a hook up of OAK to your stove. Does this help with its performace.

I have an OAK installed in mine. As to helping I would say yes, but they are only useful under certain conditions.
Try this link for more info: (broken link removed to http://www.woodheat.org/outdoorair/outdoorair.htm)

Some questions to ask yourself when thinking about an OAK, is does your stove burn better when you open a window near the stove? How well sealed is your house?

 

[cyclone]

well to say this I am not sure if my stove is burning correctly, and followed all the recomondations as given by yourself and others. It does seem as when I am burning for long periods of time the stove seems to starve for air. I also get a wood burning smell in my house. I do not get any smoke leakage that is visible. I did change the front door gastget because it did not pass the dollar bill test. With the new replacement gasget it hardened up like the old one and the dollar bill passes through with little resistance.

At this point I am frustrated. When it seems like I have a handle on the stove in time something comes up. For example last week I satrted to burn at 6:00am. Throughout this time I wanted to be very observant and try some new things when loading and putting into afterburn. With a good coal bed I would drop in three or four splits have a temp of 400-450 close the bybass, leave the setting on high for 5 to 10 minutes, work the air down, and it was burning clean. No smoke form chimney. Last load for the night 9:00pm I load it up full stove temp at 450 475 charred the wood and started to burn poorly; not in AB. Went outside and a lot of smoke from chimney. Stareted the process over and inside the firbox the fire took off rapidly, scared the hell out of me. Closed it up and started to burn real funny. Opened the top to give it air and flames shot out the top load door. Shut the by pass and rumbling started with the air turned down to 1st notch. It burned chitty than on.

I'll share this with you. I have a decent draft. I have dry hardwood. I have a good coal bed, and proper temp. With all of this the stove seems to burn funny and not like it should.

I cannot use the first setting due to it will almost smolder the fire. My glass also stains..

 

[MishMouse]

well to say this I am not sure if my stove is burning correctly, and followed all the recomondations as given by yourself and others. It does seem as when I am burning for long periods of time the stove seems to starve for air. I also get a wood burning smell in my house. .

Few things you might want to try

Do you happen to have a spark screen on your chimney?
Check it for clogging, those things have been know to clog and cause issues, especially if you are getting a smoke smell in your house.

You might want to try an internal flue thermometer for your stove.
I think 1K maybe the sweet spot for the AB when measuring internal temps.

What happens to your stove when you open a window near the stove?
Does the burn improve or no change?

 

[MishMouse]

Murry, another question is?
What was the weather outside on both occasions?
Weather does have an impact on how this stove operates.
Was it windy?

Mine seems to works the best when the temp outside is between -30 and 40.
When it gets below -30 I have to run it in the 600 range to keep the house above 69.
When the temp is above 40 the AB seems to have a more difficult time engaging and the only way I can get it active is to run it a little hotter at the start (> 550 or > 1K flue). But, once it is active and running I can then drop it to level 1 for 10+ hour burns above 400.

 

[stanleyjohn]

Boy its warm again in here!76 here in the upstairs computer room while my last load of the night is burning downstairs in the living room which is around 83.Its been as cold as 10 below here!12 now and this harman sure has done its job very well.The cats love the heat and it sure was nice and cozy watching battlestar galactica near the stove.The real only complaint i have had so far with my stove is dirty glass!it sure has been a challange to keep clean.Hoping this is mostly because of non 100% seasoned wood.I find that stacking my wood with larger pieces on the bottom with a cavity in the middle does best for me on having the afterburn run very consistant for long periods of time.I only rarely close the air intake to the last notch because of a dirtier glass and shutdown of the afterburn.My first full season is looking like thumbs up!I know its been only a year since i got it!but its been a real joy.Im sorry that some others have had some trouble with their harmans and i hope they can smooth things out.

 

[idget]

I am getting better at using the Harman. It can be a great stove - even temps, long burn, but getting used to it take a while to find the best way to use it. It is not like any other stove I had where you simply load it and light it up. Advantages to it are the burn times and even temps once you get it going. Down side is start up takes awhile until you can use the AB. This is prob since I can't really start it up in the morning before work. But when everything is working right and the AB is going, I just add wood and it goes all day and night. Just a long learning curve. I think seasoned wood is one thing you do need to make it work well.

 

[cyclone]

MISHMOUSE

Can you please tell me what is needed for a fresh air kit (materials). I am going to install.

 

[MishMouse]

MISHMOUSE

Can you please tell me what is needed for a fresh air kit (materials). I am going to install.

For me I just had the installers do the install of the fresh air kit, Harman does offer one specifically designed for the stove.
But, what it is basically is an insulated hose similar to a dryer vent, that connects to the bottom back of the stove and through your wall to an outside vent. Of course allot of duck tape is used to seal an cracks between the vent and the outside wall to prevent air from coming in.

Here is a link to a picture showing the stove connected to the vent.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/17182/

 

[Seasoned Oak]

MISHMOUSE

Can you please tell me what is needed for a fresh air kit (materials). I am going to install.

For me I just had the installers do the install of the fresh air kit, Harman does offer one specifically designed for the stove.
But, what it is basically is an insulated hose similar to a dryer vent, that connects to the bottom back of the stove and through your wall to an outside vent. Of course allot of duck tape is used to seal an cracks between the vent and the outside wall to prevent air from coming in.

Here is a link to a picture showing the stove connected to the vent.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/17182/

====================
I would think super cold outside air would have a negative affect on the stove performance. Better to have the air preheated some way so it enters the stove around room temperature. But i do think colder air may contain more oxygen, thats how water is,the colder the water is the more oxygen it contains.

 

[Todd]

Seems strange that Harman doesn't have better operation instructions in their manual along with operational temps. If I had this stove I'd run it like a cat stove and monitor the internal temps. How close to the stoves exhaust collar could you install a probe thermometer? I think this would really help as a guide for the AB.