25-PDVC "U" in the Blower Speed Window

[DogFarmAlpha]

I did the factory reset and tuned to 8-5-1. Using C mode.

Upper auger apparently not turning. Lower is. Cleaned vents.

When I start the stove, it runs for about 30 seconds, then what appears to be a "U" appears in the blower speed window, and the fire eventually burns out.

I'd appreciate any input.

-Phil

 

[slvrblkk]

Put it back in "D" mode and see what happens....

One other thing, did you do this when the stove was cold?

 

[Harvey Schneider]

During the first 15 to 20 minutes of operation the digital display will have "S" "U" displayed. This is normal and indicates that the stove is in Start Up mode. If proof of fire is not made by the end of that period the stove automatically shuts down.
So it sounds as though the problem is that the upper auger is not feeding pellets to the lower auger. Two things that inhibit the upper auger are the hopper lid switch (if so equipped) and one of the vacuum switches.
The hopper lid switch is obvious, if the lid is not seated properly the auger will not feed pellets.
The vacuum switch connects to the fire box to the right of the fire pot.

Possibilities are :

1. The hopper lid switch is open
2. The hole at the fire box is clogged with ash
3. The rubber hose connecting the fire box to the vacuum switch is clogged with ash
4. The vacuum switch has failed
5. A wire has become disconnected from the control board or the vacuum switch or the auger motor or the hopper lid switch.
6. The control board has failed
7. The auger is jammed
8. There is an obstruction in the upper auger path

Not necessarily in any order.
If you need help trouble shooting this problem post back for more help.

 

[Pete Zahria]

I had a similar problem...
Turned out that the hopper lid latching devices had worked
(or were from the factory) loose.

If you can push down on your lid, and it moves, it is too loose.
You should not be able to move it down when it is latched...

Just check it. It's a real EZ fix.. you keep making small adjustments
to the nuts, and keep checking until the lid is snug. Then, just snug up the nuts
against each other..

Dan

 

[DogFarmAlpha]

Put it back in "D" mode and see what happens....

One other thing, did you do this when the stove was cold?

Thank you. Yes, the stove was cold.

 

[DogFarmAlpha]

Ok...still can't get it to work.

I removed the upper auger, examined and cleaned it and the auger path and replaced it. Put the bottom auger's wires on the top auger, and it did turn, but not when I put the top wires back.

It doesn't have a hopper switch, but I did tighten the latches.

I removed, examined, cleaned and replaced the vacuum hoses, and cleaned out the vacuum hose hole near the firebox.

I completely disassembled the stack and intake, cleaned and replaced them.

 

[Harvey Schneider]

Ok...still can't get it to work.

I removed the upper auger, examined and cleaned it and the auger path and replaced it. Put the bottom auger's wires on the top auger, and it did turn, but not when I put the top wires back.

It doesn't have a hopper switch, but I did tighten the latches.

I removed, examined, cleaned and replaced the vacuum hoses, and cleaned out the vacuum hose hole near the firebox.

I completely disassembled the stack and intake, cleaned and replaced them.

There is a vacuum switch in series with the upper auger motor. You can try bypassing it by connecting the wires together with a paper clip. This has line Voltage on it so be careful that the clip doesn't short on anything.
Before you move any wires, make careful notes on where they were connected so that you can put them back later. If it runs correctly with the switch bypassed it indicates either a faulty switch or a significant air leak into the fire box.

 

[Ed Churilla]

I had a similar problem with my top auger--and ran through all the diagnostics as you did. Turns out the circuit board was toast--and $200 later I had it running.

 

[DogFarmAlpha]

When I bypassed the vacuum switch, the top auger worked.

I re-cleaned the vacuum line and port, cleaned the terminals on the switch. Didn't help.

I did the flame test around all of the seals and found no evidence of a leak.

Ordered a new vacuum switch from Englander...hopefully this takes care of it.

Thanks to everyone from helping so far.

 

[Harvey Schneider]

When I bypassed the vacuum switch, the top auger worked.

I re-cleaned the vacuum line and port, cleaned the terminals on the switch. Didn't help.

I did the flame test around all of the seals and found no evidence of a leak.

Ordered a new vacuum switch from Englander...hopefully this takes care of it.

Thanks to everyone from helping so far.

Are you sure you reconnected the vac hose to the correct port on the switch?
If you connect a tube to the switch. You should hear the switch click when you suck gently on the tube. If it doesn't try the other port. If neither port results in a click the switch is bad. If it does click check it with a meter to see if it switches. The normally open contact should connect to the common contact when you suck on the tube.

 

[DogFarmAlpha]

Yes. I photographed everything before starting, AND the correct port had no dust on it. Connected the wires back to the terminals marked "NO and "C".