Help with Stove Placement

[Wyatt]

I'm looking to heat approx. 1,000sf house/studio apt. (new construction) with a yet purchased wood stove. The living area is only 700sf and the rest is 2 bedrooms and bath all one floor. The attached pic (south wall) shows my only real area to place the stove since the East wall is all windows, West has the kitchen and the North is a knee wall that's only 40" high, but rises at a 5/12 pitch until it reaches 9' then flattens. So to make a short story long, this area I have from the railing (which is just a sample piece and only 15" high) to the bedroom door is 40". I really like the looks of the Dutchwest non-cat cast iron small #2477 and have read the specs to combustible, but don't know about this railing which is powdercoated aluminum. Also, the DW has a leftside door which might affect heat on that side and loading. I planned on adding heat shields, but wonder if that's enough. I plan on having the unit as far right (bedroom door side) as possible and since the stove is 24" I would have about 1' clearance. Any words of encouragement, do's/don't or other cast iron models to look at in the same price range would be appreciated. I also like the Hampton H2000 if anybody can review. Thanks for your input

Wyatt

 

[BrotherBart]

In that size and price range you really should take a look at the Jotul F100 Nordic also. Unbeatable quality and a pretty stove.

 

[babalu87]

IMHO the Morso is a very underated stove

I have the 3610 but the 1410 would be ideal for your application

(broken link removed to http://www.morsoe.com/us/1400series.htm)

 

[Wyatt]

Thanks for the recommendations on the other stoves. Would the Jotul F100 be in the same price range as the DW, say around $1200? Also, would the aluminum rail in my pic be considered combustible and would 12" be too close? The "real" wall to the left of the railing (stairway) is another 40" away, so that seems like plenty of room if the railing won't melt or powdercoat won't give off toxic fumes.

Thank You, Wyatt

 

[BrotherBart]

The F100 will run around that price range. Well, unless you are in the Washington D.C./Northern Virginia area and then I know of one that will cost you a good bit less.

 

[bwaterma]

I'm planning on installing a Jotul F100 in a masonry chimney in the family room of our house. The chimney will be lined with a 6" SS liner (insulated) as we live Mass. and the chimney is external to the house (17' from damper to top) and the flue tile is too large anyway. The family room is 20' long by 13' wide but with an 18' ceiling (peak) but "V's" down to 8' (lengthwise). There is a ceiling fan but it only works in reverse (pulls air up). The chimney is at one end of the 20' run next to the kitchen (11 x 20 with 8' ceilings) which is accessed through a 7 wide opening between the 2 rooms (no doors... always open). The question is whether the F100 will adequately heat the family room (and perhaps the kitchen). The family room is 260 sq. ft. and the kitchen is 220 sq. ft. The big problem may have more to do with CUBIC feet than square feet. I'm not looking to heat the whole first floor just keep it toasty while we're in the family room during the day (no overnight burns).

Thanks

 

[elkimmeg]

My familly room is 22/20 440sq ft I have 5 external windows a door and 4 sky lites cathredral ceiling to near 16 + ft. I have heated this room witha VC Intrepid II stove
Any night I can obtain 70+ degrees and that's when it is bellow zero
My average productive heat time is 6+ hours per load. All stoves you are considering have smaller fire boxes and will only produce productive heat this long,
some possibly a shorter duration

My heat output is aided witha cat combustor and theromatically controled secondary air which might explaine the heat c vollume and lenght of burn.

All stove mentioned so far are quality stoves and should do the job at hand
I too live in Ma so climate wise not too much difference