207 Upland stove

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

jb in ny

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 12, 2006
15
I was given this stove - it needs some TLC but seems solid with no cracks. The pipe comes out the back as opposed to from the top. We currently burn two other stoves to supplement our oil heat in upstate NY. We are experienced having used woodstoves since '76. However, our other two stoves are 1897 and 1920's kitchen wood and gas.

This Upland was manufactured from 1979 to 1985 I think. Is it just a conventional woodstove? Does anyone have any experience with it and know of any disadvantages or quirks with it? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Diane
 
Diane you are in luck our webmaster once owned Upland
Calling Craig Mister webmaster
 
I hope he sees this post and enlightens me. It doesn't have a catalytic converter, does it? I'm a simple woodstove operator although I can appreciate the principles behind the newer technology. I'm just not very adept at operating it. Thanks, Diane
 
Craig has already ansered most of your question in the arxhives here is a cut and paste

Upland Stove - # 1724
Question:

I have an Upland (Model 207) wood stove in my house that I bought recently. Craig, I noticed in the archives of this discussion group that you might have some info on this stove. An owner’s manual would be a great help. Thanks!
Answer:

Could be tough to get at this point. I have seen the owners manual for that stove and it isn’t much to speak of, so you’re not missing much. The stove had 36” clearances to walls, and has two baffle plates. When being used as a closed stove the plate should be moved toward the far end (from the draft) of the stove. If and when the stove is used with the screen (open front door), one baffle is moved toward the draft control to allow the smoke a quick way up the chimney.

It takes 7” pipe and the crimped end will ovalize into the oval receptacle on the top or rear of the stove. A little furnace cement will fill any space there.

The large rear plate of the stove often developed cracks, and for this reason there should be cast iron liners on the rear wall. If the crack is hairline, then you can patch from the inside with furnace cement and it should be fine.

That is most of what you need to know about the 207.
 
I burned a 207 last winter.
I got mine for free and it had been stored in a barn since the mid '80s and had only been used occasionally before. I replaced the gaskets, put some cement around the seams, and coated it with stove polish. In all reality it should have been broken down and then I could have put new cement inside the seams instead of on the outsides of them (which I did from the inside and outside).

It worked well but the back plate tended to warp when hot, you can see some of it in the attached picture but it the curvature of the lense distorts it more. I should have taken a picture later in the season when all of the cement fell out and you could see a 1/8" gap between the back and the side plates with orange flames behind!

I bought a newer (but used) Avalon for this year but the Upland worked well and heated the 1300 sq feet of the main portion of the house well once it had been burning for a while. I'll keep the Upland and use it in other situations...

Mine exeted out the top plate (which would also expand and create a gap between the lower plates when hot). It used a 7" oval stove pipe which was made by squishing a 7" round pipe into oval and hammering it down in place. I used a little cement to seal the area.

I have a fire viewing screen for it but I never used it. I wasn't too happy with the way the door sealed but it worked OK. The baffles come in two pieces and can be moved for different purposes. I think under normal (closed door) circumstances both of the plates are pushed toward the "back" (when looking in from the side loading door) of the stove. When you open or remove the doors the baffles are placed so that there is a direct line for the smoke to go right up the chimney (one baffle in the "back" one in the "front"). I set mine up a few times with both of the baffles towards the "front" (side load door and air entry) so that there would be less of a distance for the smoke to travel. I did this when I was having draft issues and I figured it might help.

I used to get super long burns out of it sometimes. I would re-load around 11 at night and sometimes I'd have hot coals to re-light with when I got home the next night at 6PM (19 hours). Burn times were considerably less when it was colder out.
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] 207 Upland stove
    DCP04550.webp
    86.7 KB · Views: 2,377
Thanks for all the information, Geoff. I'm going to pass this information to my husband and if he has any questions, I'll post them. I can see what you mean about the front doors. Ours was also given to us and executes out the back which I wonder if that would be a disadvantage. We have an old 1897 stove which is basically the same shape which we have used for 30 years and it puts out great heat so that is why we like the 207 (same size logs). Thanks again, the information will be very helpful for us, Diane
 
I have an upland 207 and need to have the two cast bafels on the back side of the stove replaced. does any one know where I can get these bafels? thanks
 
Status
Not open for further replies.