Replacing an old cast iron with a new EPA stove. Can I use the same pipe?

[WATYF]

I'm replacing an old cast-iron stove with (broken link removed).

So, I already have a "pipe" (or whatever it's officially called) in place for the existing stove. But the part where the pipe meets the stove is a different size (the new one is standard 6" round, while the old one looks to be more like 8-9" oblong where it meets the stove).

What do I need to do to change these over? Is there a 8" to 6" adapter I can tack on to this pipe? I'm assuming that would mean that I'd have to cut the pipe a few feet above the stove. Or is that now how you do it?


Here are the pics of the existing setup...

WATYF

 

[sapratt]

Yes you can get a 8 to 6 reducer. Not sure if you would need to put it at the stove or ceiling. Also not sure if it
would effect the performance of the stove. Someone with more experience will chime in and give better advice.

 

[WATYF]

OK. If I can get a reducer, do I need to seal it with anything special? I'm assuming that you can't just screw it on and call it a day.


WATYF

 

[webbie]

At first glance, the chimney looks relatively modern - and a pipe adapter at the bottom. BUT, it would be prudent to remove the black pipe and inspect the entire situation in the attic and from the roof, etc.

The brand of pipe may still be visible on a label in the attic - on the pipe sections. My guess is metalbestos or hart and cooley.

If you are not really handy, have a pro come look at it. Some local building or fire officials are friendly enough to do this (in certain cases).

If you find the brand, download a manual and check the clearances. My guess is that this pipe requires a 2" clearance. Some brands have a little less than that at the ceiling support.

Also, make sure you install (or have) an attic insulation shield or other method to stop anything from dropping in the top of the ceiling support.

 

[webbie]

OK. If I can get a reducer, do I need to seal it with anything special? I'm assuming that you can't just screw it on and call it a day.


WATYF

Here is how I would do it. The pipe dropping out of the ceiling box is probably a Pipe Adapter (ss) which ties into the insulated chimney.

I would cut that off about 3-4" below the ceiling support and then slide the 8" to 6" reducer around it, using furnace cement to seal any spaces (put on female end inside the adapter)....and then use 3 screws. Then use 6" pipe down to the stove.

That would look better and give you new interior pipe.

If you want to use the best stuff possible, get Heat-Fab 22 ga black pipe and reducer - more expensive, but safer and better than 24 ga.

 

[WATYF]

At first glance, the chimney looks relatively modern - and a pipe adapter at the bottom. BUT, it would be prudent to remove the black pipe and inspect the entire situation in the attic and from the roof, etc.

The brand of pipe may still be visible on a label in the attic - on the pipe sections. My guess is metalbestos or hart and cooley.

If you are not really handy, have a pro come look at it. Some local building or fire officials are friendly enough to do this (in certain cases).

If you find the brand, download a manual and check the clearances. My guess is that this pipe requires a 2" clearance. Some brands have a little less than that at the ceiling support.

Also, make sure you install (or have) an attic insulation shield or other method to stop anything from dropping in the top of the ceiling support.

I'm assuming (hopefully within reason) that everything is fine on the existing setup. It passed inspection when I bought the house, and I've been using the old stove for a few years without any issues. The only reason I'd have a pro come out is because (as you guessed), I'm not very handy.

WATYF

 

[WATYF]

OK. If I can get a reducer, do I need to seal it with anything special? I'm assuming that you can't just screw it on and call it a day.


WATYF

Here is how I would do it. The pipe dropping out of the ceiling box is probably a Pipe Adapter (ss) which ties into the insulated chimney.

I would cut that off about 3-4" below the ceiling support and then slide the 8" to 6" reducer around it, using furnace cement to seal any spaces (put on female end inside the adapter)....and then use 3 screws. Then use 6" pipe down to the stove.

That would look better and give you new interior pipe.

If you want to use the best stuff possible, get Heat-Fab 22 ga black pipe and reducer - more expensive, but safer and better than 24 ga.

Could I also just buy a whole new pipe adapter (the part that screws into the ceiling?) and just run 6" all the way?


WATYF

 

[crazy_dan]

I would think not because the chimney if 8" I.D. then you will still need a reducer to make it a 6" I.D.