New to wood boiler opeartion and this site. Wish I would have found it before I installed system.
I have a 150 BTU non-gassification indoor wood boiler in my garage (Royall Boiler model 6150) System has a 20x20 water to air heat exchanger in plenum (150K BTU rating depending on air/water flow rate)for my forced air heat. The heat exchanger is located above boiler with 1 inch copper supply that slopes towards the exchanger and 1" return lines back to boiler. I piped it up hoping that in event of pump failure /power outage, that the heat exchanger would thermosypon water thru to keep from overheating and blowing pressure releif valve.
Boiler has a 30 psi pressure relief and I also installed a 210 degree temp relief valve on piping above boiler for safety.
Also Have 450 gallon well insulated storage tank with 120 ' 3/4 copper heat exchanger in tank, Might have some theromsyphone action on piping to tank but not counting on it. the pipe up arrangement is the water rises out of boiler 4' to ceiling, travels horizontal about 20 ft and drops 4' to tank and copper loops in tank and back following same path. .
The heat exchanger and storage tanks are on separte supply and return loops. All controls are simple 1" ball valves so I can isolate each loop and use one or the other
have 3 speed grunfos pump, no check valve so it can themosyphon if needed
System works great so far. No problem getting tank temps to 170 /180 degrees
My questions are:
1. Do you experienced folks out there feel I need to install an oveheat protection loop with Auto valve and large size BTU heat dump to open up if temps/ pressure rises to dangerous level? It would keep me from losing water in an oveheat situation and repressurizing system.
I have a couple of times unplugged the pump to simulate power outage to see what happens and temps do not run out of control. It rises to about 190 ish and seems to top out there. Is there a situation that I should consider that I'm not with respect to overheating? heat exchanger valve should never be closed during boiler operation.
2. Trying to figure out best way to get most from my storage tank. I have been running pump on all speeds and it seems I can crank out most heat to house and tank simultaneously using medium to high pump speed and when I want to draw heat from tank just shut down the return valve from storage tank to slow the flow thu tank loops so it picks up the stored heat as it travels though loop This storage tank is all manually controlled with ball valve. I can adjust fan relay to run at various temps so I could get usuable heat out of 130 degree water if I did not have fire I have seen various configurations on storage tank piping on this , which appear much different and more sophisticated than my system.
any suggestions would be appreciated. Hope all this makes sense!
I have a 150 BTU non-gassification indoor wood boiler in my garage (Royall Boiler model 6150) System has a 20x20 water to air heat exchanger in plenum (150K BTU rating depending on air/water flow rate)for my forced air heat. The heat exchanger is located above boiler with 1 inch copper supply that slopes towards the exchanger and 1" return lines back to boiler. I piped it up hoping that in event of pump failure /power outage, that the heat exchanger would thermosypon water thru to keep from overheating and blowing pressure releif valve.
Boiler has a 30 psi pressure relief and I also installed a 210 degree temp relief valve on piping above boiler for safety.
Also Have 450 gallon well insulated storage tank with 120 ' 3/4 copper heat exchanger in tank, Might have some theromsyphone action on piping to tank but not counting on it. the pipe up arrangement is the water rises out of boiler 4' to ceiling, travels horizontal about 20 ft and drops 4' to tank and copper loops in tank and back following same path. .
The heat exchanger and storage tanks are on separte supply and return loops. All controls are simple 1" ball valves so I can isolate each loop and use one or the other
have 3 speed grunfos pump, no check valve so it can themosyphon if needed
System works great so far. No problem getting tank temps to 170 /180 degrees
My questions are:
1. Do you experienced folks out there feel I need to install an oveheat protection loop with Auto valve and large size BTU heat dump to open up if temps/ pressure rises to dangerous level? It would keep me from losing water in an oveheat situation and repressurizing system.
I have a couple of times unplugged the pump to simulate power outage to see what happens and temps do not run out of control. It rises to about 190 ish and seems to top out there. Is there a situation that I should consider that I'm not with respect to overheating? heat exchanger valve should never be closed during boiler operation.
2. Trying to figure out best way to get most from my storage tank. I have been running pump on all speeds and it seems I can crank out most heat to house and tank simultaneously using medium to high pump speed and when I want to draw heat from tank just shut down the return valve from storage tank to slow the flow thu tank loops so it picks up the stored heat as it travels though loop This storage tank is all manually controlled with ball valve. I can adjust fan relay to run at various temps so I could get usuable heat out of 130 degree water if I did not have fire I have seen various configurations on storage tank piping on this , which appear much different and more sophisticated than my system.
any suggestions would be appreciated. Hope all this makes sense!