PE Summit baffle close up & personal.

[Hogwildz]

Ok, so I did a mid season cleaning today, decided to take a few photos & clear up a misconception.
There are no rear holes on the PE Summit baffle.
The baffle consists of an enclosed s.s. baffle box, with holes along the front face, a couple inches back horizontally on the bottom face, and several straight down the center middle bottom face from front to about mid way back. Thats all there is as far as holes.
There is an insulation blanket on top of the baffle, and a s.s. flame shield that covers the top and both sides of the insulation blanket. This is what the PE Summit baffle consists of.

 

[Hogwildz]

I forgot to take a photo of the bottom face, but anyone who owns a Summit knows what it looks like.
There is also a flame shield on the insert top underside (inner) fastened by one bolt to allow for movement.
This shield actually cover a small amount of the stove outlet. Not sure why, but I know mine burns great, and with about 27' or liner, I don't want an more draft

 

[Gunner]

Ok, who was it that saw a row of holes under the flange just about the pin at the back of the baffle.

Maybe it was a spectrum??

 

[Hogwildz]

Now I will admit, my baffle has a bow to it. It does not seem to affect anything at all. I will check it again this spring during the next clean out, and if need be, I will put the lifetime warranty to use and have the dealer order a new one.
As far as the pin that holed baffle in place goes. Some have advised it is not needed. I disagree. It is the only thing that holds the baffle in place. Otherwise if you load her to the max like I do, the baffle would raise & not rest over the secondary air tube at the back. I found one reason I was getting secondary burn at the rear of the baffle was due to the baffle pin hole in the rear stove channel portion was factory drilled too high. Hence to get the pin in, you had to lift the baffle up some to get the pin in. Then this would hold the baffle up slightly and I am imagining secondary air escaping in the now formed gap. I took my cirdelss drill and with the baffle in proper alignment & place, drilled a new "properly placed" hole just under the "poorly placed" factory hole, and the pin went in real nice and baffle stayed in proper place & alignment. After I achieved secondary burn on the newly cleaned out stove tonight, there was no secondary burn at the back of the stove. Yes I did use my last $3.00 gasket and will be ordering more. Feel free to bust my stones on a $3.00 gasket ( B.B. )

I hope this helps clear up the misconception that there is secondary burn holes at the rear of the baffle. If you are getting secondary burn at the rear, check for a badly drilled baffle pin hole, and check you rear baffle to secondary tube gasket. From factory, when I cleaned her this past spring, it had 2 rear baffle gaskets at the rear. I don't know if this was a missed factory oops, or some jackass there trying to fix his oops on the baffle pin hole placement.

Just goes to show, ALL manufacturers can have a slip in QC once in a while. I can at least say its corrected now. And was not worth going to PE about.
Tom, order me up another 3 pack.

 

[Hogwildz]

Dun remember bro, I do remember reading the post, and vaguely remember it was a new owner I think.
I'll look for the thread also. I think it was the long thread about baffle warping etc.

 

[Hogwildz]

Ok found it, it was wxman that posted there are secondary burn holes at the back of his PE Pacific.
I have never seen a Pacific's baffle, so I can neither confirm or deny that statement.

Heres the thread.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/11065/

 

[BrotherBart]

No bustin from me big'un. But I am reminded of what a Boeing rep told me in Vietnam one day. "We don't make any money selling the Army helicopters but we make a fortune selling them parts.".

 

[begreen]

Nice to see the pieces out of the stove Hog. No I'm a bit confused. Where does the secondary air enter the ss baffle box?

 

[Hogwildz]

No bustin from me big'un. But I am reminded of what a Boeing rep told me in Vietnam one day. "We don't make any money selling the Army helicopters but we make a fortune selling them parts.".

Agreed whole heartedly! I was going to use rope gasket and make a more suitable gasket for back there. But all I have is 5/8" & 3/4". I am going to pick up some smaller tape gasket like they use for door glass and make one next year.
My glass must be minutely scratched. I have a hazy spot in the middle I can't get rid off. Tried everything. When its wet from the cleaner its crystal clear. The minute it starts drying, the haze comes back. So looks like I'll redo the glass next summer. I'll get that cut local.

 

[BrotherBart]

My glass must be minutely scratched. I have a hazy spot in the middle I can't get rid off. Tried everything. When its wet from the cleaner its crystal clear. The minute it starts drying, the haze comes back. So looks like I'll redo the glass next summer. I'll get that cut local.

Try the stuff for ceramic stove tops first. Next if that won't get it done use jeweler's rouge to rub it out. That is the stuff we used on helicopter windshields to get scratches off of them. They were coated with a thin film of gold to conduct electricity for defrosting. When they got scratched ya needed something real gentle to rub them out without removing the coating. Jeweler's rouge just fit the bill.

 

[Hogwildz]

Nice to see the pieces out of the stove Hog. No I'm a bit confused. Where does the secondary air enter the ss baffle box?

BG, I wish I would have taken a photos of the bottom of the baffle. There is a rectangular hole at the bottom back center, it slides down over the secondary air channel that runs up the center back of the stove. There is a very thin white almost fiberglass looking, (prolly kawool or something) that is sandwiched between the secondary channel & the baffle.

 

[begreen]

Got it. I was looking for the source, but didn't spot it. I was wondering what that grey area was about. It would be great if we all had the patience when we got a new stove, to take her apart and document how it goes together. But I'll take is with a little ash dust. Thanks for posting.

 

[Hogwildz]

My glass must be minutely scratched. I have a hazy spot in the middle I can't get rid off. Tried everything. When its wet from the cleaner its crystal clear. The minute it starts drying, the haze comes back. So looks like I'll redo the glass next summer. I'll get that cut local.

Try the stuff for ceramic stove tops first. Next if that won't get it done use jeweler's rouge to rub it out. That is the stuff we used on helicopter windshields to get scratches off of them. They were coated with a thin film of gold to conduct electricity for defrosting. When they got scratched ya needed something real gentle to rub them out without removing the coating. Jeweler's rouge just fit the bill.

B.B., I don't know if anything can help this glass now.
Where would I get the Jeweler's rouge? I'll give it a shot.
I cleaned it one day while still prety hot, and rubbed too hard I think.
But then there is a wave like line where the air wash is. I dunno.

 

[Hogwildz]

Got it. I was looking for the source, but didn't spot it. I was wondering what that grey area was about. It would be great if we all had the patience when we got a new stove, to take her apart and document how it goes together. But I'll take is with a little ash dust. Thanks for posting.

BG, another view, the center channel is the same as the last photos I posted with the arrows. It runs from the baffle, down through the rear horizontal channel to the floor, I am not sure where it runs from there. I know when she is pretty hot, I can even get secondary burn where the combustion air enters the front inner ash lip. I never noticed that till this year.
But it seems to work well.

 

[BrotherBart]

Most hobby shops should have jeweler's rouge. If you cleaned it hot that is most likely baked on glass cleaner.

 

[Hogwildz]

Most hobby shops should have jeweler's rouge. If you cleaned it hot that is most likely baked on glass cleaner.

Didn't use cleaner then, I used a damp rag. I think the coating on the glass is finely scratched. I just don't know. Cleaned it many times lightly while warmish hot last year with no problems. Is there a way that some kind of chemicals from the ends of splits could etch the glass somehow, or is there a coating on the glass that may have etched, burned, or worn off? I even tried 000000 forgot how many 0's steel wool in a small area and nada. Cleaned a tiny bit off, but the haze remained.

 

[BrotherBart]

It's probably from the fumes of burning baffle gaskets. :zip:

 

[Hogwildz]

It's probably from the fumes of burning baffle gaskets. :zip:

Why I outta.........................
Lucky for you I like ya ya old fugger.
You know one of these days I will get down there to hang with you Corie & Mike.
And no I won't bring any Yuingling or however its spelled. Yuck

 

[Corie]

It's probably from the fumes of burning baffle gaskets. :zip:

Why I outta.........................
Lucky for you I like ya ya old fugger.
You know one of these days I will get down there to hang with you Corie & Mike.
And no I won't bring any Yuingling or however its spelled. Yuck

Well you might not bring any, but you'll be forced to drink it here anyway! Just kidding, I know better. Next time you come I'll make sure I have all the Michelob Ultra Light you can handle big guy


(St. Pauli Girl is the one you like though, right?)

 

[jqgs214]

Yep,

I looked again, my baffle is different from the summit. My cameras down and need to take some pics for you guys on next warm period. On the bottom rear edge of the Pacific baffle is an "S" shaped flange across the back. This flange works great for twisting the baffle pin against to lock it in place. Under this flange is a row of holes. They are very hard to see as the clearance under this flange is +/- 1/8". I get cool secondaries early in the burn cycle back there. Its not a leak, it stretches across the whole back of the fire box. Future pics I hope.

 

[jqgs214]

Hogz,

got a picture of the underside of your baffle??

 

[velvetfoot]

I think I might have used White Off once, but I don't remember how it worked.

(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5RU-565&iorb=4764&src=broi)

 

[Gunner]

Chit hog, don't see how your glass could get buggered up like that. I clean mine hot and nothing has happened...hot enough to make the water sizzle. I just use a damp paper towel, no cleaner of any kind.

Is there a possiblilty the rag had some dirt/grit on it? Chemical? Ink or dye if a colored rag? I'm reaching for straws here...I know.

Could the steel wool be the culprit?

Good luck

 

[karl]

That looks how mine looked when I took it out a few days ago. I have a slight warp but nothing major. I wondered why it was red though. Any Ideas.

Oh and I think that gasket is just for looks. Mine was torn when I took it out and I didn't replace it with a new one and I don't see any difference in how it burns. I got a little secondary burn from the back before and I get it now too. It's not enough of a leak to effect how the secondaries work in the front.

 

[Hogwildz]

That looks how mine looked when I took it out a few days ago. I have a slight warp but nothing major. I wondered why it was red though. Any Ideas.

Oh and I think that gasket is just for looks. Mine was torn when I took it out and I didn't replace it with a new one and I don't see any difference in how it burns. I got a little secondary burn from the back before and I get it now too. It's not enough of a leak to effect how the secondaries work in the front.

My guess at the red is prolly some kind of chemical &/or heat reaction between the burnt gases & the s.s. Possibly from the fly ash, dunno.
Only happens on the s.s. so chemical/heat based is my guess.
I had the gasket and baffle st in nice. NHO secondary from the back. But, when I loaded her up, which slightly pushed the baffle up a taf, it was getting secondary in the back again. Doesn't effect the front. And I kind feel it may be a good thing since it is burning the gases in the back also and the back corners are usually the coolest and where the coals burn down least. I'll put a few splits in and see if the baffle set back down & sealed again. No big deal though.