The first thing you need to do is READ THE OWNERS MANUAL
If you dont have one most manufactures have them available on their website.
Two #1 reason auger motor will not operate is:
PRESSURE SWITCH / Vacuum switch and the HOPPER LID OR DOOR TRIP SWITCH
http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/pressure.gif
Function: Monitors exhaust movement out of the stove to determine if restriction to air flow exists.
This switch has no electrical connection to the Combustion Blower system (IN MOST STOVES).
The switch is normally “Closed” allowing the passage of electricity from the control board to the auger motor. When a set amount of Negitive or positive pressure (depending on stove) is detected, due to a restriction or blockage to airflow, the diaphragm is moved to the “Open” position; power is cut to the auger motor stopping fuel to the grate. If this condition occurs, inspection of the stoves vent system is recommended. Some stoves the Ignitor circuit is also connected to the vacuum switch.
First check to see of all Doors and Ash pan doors are latched tight and getting a good seal.
Check that the flue is clean an clear of obstructions
Check that all ash traps are clean and clear
Check that your combustion blower is working
Read this post about a exhaust chamber blocked https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/12660/
Most times this system fails NOT because of the switch but because the hose is broken or the Port the hose connects to the stove (NOT TO THE SWITCH) is clogged at the combustion blower or where the port is located on your stove.
http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/pressurehole.jpg
Some locations the hose is connect to are:
Combustion blower.
Back of the firebox
Ash pan
Ignitor tube
Intake air tube at the firebox
Electrically check the switch by disconnecting the wires from the switch. Attach a voltmeter set for “continuity” detection.
The switch should show continuity (CLOSED) with the hose disconnected from the Combustion Blower housing.
When the hose is connected back to the stove (power “ON”) if a reading of “Open” is indicated, the vent needs inspection.
With power “OFF” and the hose disconnected, you can gently blow into the hose and cause the switch to OPEN.
When blowing into the hose stops, the switch should CLOSE.
This test indicates proper switch operation.
Some stove this could be just the opposite depending if the hose is connect to a negative pressure area or positive pressure area
If this switch fails or the hose is bad, You can by-pass this switch by connecting the two wires that lead to the vacuum switch together and your stove will work normally.
I have only seen 2 pressure switch go bad in 1000’s of stoves I have worked on. It is normaly just a dirty stove or the port/barb the hose is connected to is plugged up.
Other reasons for no power to the auger could be:
Tripped or bad limit switch (profile 30 has (2) Red labeled HI LIMIT switches in line with the auger circuit.)
Bad control board or auger Timer block
Bad feed rate controller (potentiometer)
Blow fuse
Door or hopper lid TRIP SWITCH (profile 30 on the door)
If all of this is good and you auger still is not feeding test to see if it is getting the power to the motor.
Put a voltage meter on BOTH wires that go to the auger motor.
Don’t just use a grounding point and test one wire because some stoves have the HOT circuit going to the component all the time and use limit switches to cut off the Neutral side of the circuit.
Remember the current is not constant only at the feed time set by the board. So the power will only be for one second or 20 seconds at a time with a delay between feeds.
If you are 100 sure you have power going to the motor them you may have bad or week motor/gearbox.
Try pulling the auger motor out and putting direct power to the motor.
Power test TIP if your combustion blower and auger motor are the same voltage you can pull the wires off your combustion blower and connect it to the auger motor for constant direct power. When the switch of the stove is turned on.
See if the motor and Shaft at the gear box is turning.
The shaft will turn at 1 complete revolution in 1 minutes for most stove
some are 2 RPM, 3 RPM, 4 RPM or even 6 on some older Martin units.
SOME STOVES HAVE 12 volt motors
If the motor seams strong and is turning and you have power going to the motor FOR SURE from the control board.
Then you have
A auger jam
object jammed in the auger
Bad bushing/Barring
Normally with a STUCK auger system you can tell because you can see the auger motor trying to feed. If you put your finger on the end of the motor you can feel the MOTOR trying to turn every few seconds then stop.
If you dont have one most manufactures have them available on their website.
Two #1 reason auger motor will not operate is:
PRESSURE SWITCH / Vacuum switch and the HOPPER LID OR DOOR TRIP SWITCH
http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/pressure.gif
Function: Monitors exhaust movement out of the stove to determine if restriction to air flow exists.
This switch has no electrical connection to the Combustion Blower system (IN MOST STOVES).
The switch is normally “Closed” allowing the passage of electricity from the control board to the auger motor. When a set amount of Negitive or positive pressure (depending on stove) is detected, due to a restriction or blockage to airflow, the diaphragm is moved to the “Open” position; power is cut to the auger motor stopping fuel to the grate. If this condition occurs, inspection of the stoves vent system is recommended. Some stoves the Ignitor circuit is also connected to the vacuum switch.
First check to see of all Doors and Ash pan doors are latched tight and getting a good seal.
Check that the flue is clean an clear of obstructions
Check that all ash traps are clean and clear
Check that your combustion blower is working
Read this post about a exhaust chamber blocked https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/12660/
Most times this system fails NOT because of the switch but because the hose is broken or the Port the hose connects to the stove (NOT TO THE SWITCH) is clogged at the combustion blower or where the port is located on your stove.
http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/pressurehole.jpg
Some locations the hose is connect to are:
Combustion blower.
Back of the firebox
Ash pan
Ignitor tube
Intake air tube at the firebox
Electrically check the switch by disconnecting the wires from the switch. Attach a voltmeter set for “continuity” detection.
The switch should show continuity (CLOSED) with the hose disconnected from the Combustion Blower housing.
When the hose is connected back to the stove (power “ON”) if a reading of “Open” is indicated, the vent needs inspection.
With power “OFF” and the hose disconnected, you can gently blow into the hose and cause the switch to OPEN.
When blowing into the hose stops, the switch should CLOSE.
This test indicates proper switch operation.
Some stove this could be just the opposite depending if the hose is connect to a negative pressure area or positive pressure area
If this switch fails or the hose is bad, You can by-pass this switch by connecting the two wires that lead to the vacuum switch together and your stove will work normally.
I have only seen 2 pressure switch go bad in 1000’s of stoves I have worked on. It is normaly just a dirty stove or the port/barb the hose is connected to is plugged up.
Other reasons for no power to the auger could be:
Tripped or bad limit switch (profile 30 has (2) Red labeled HI LIMIT switches in line with the auger circuit.)
Bad control board or auger Timer block
Bad feed rate controller (potentiometer)
Blow fuse
Door or hopper lid TRIP SWITCH (profile 30 on the door)
If all of this is good and you auger still is not feeding test to see if it is getting the power to the motor.
Put a voltage meter on BOTH wires that go to the auger motor.
Don’t just use a grounding point and test one wire because some stoves have the HOT circuit going to the component all the time and use limit switches to cut off the Neutral side of the circuit.
Remember the current is not constant only at the feed time set by the board. So the power will only be for one second or 20 seconds at a time with a delay between feeds.
If you are 100 sure you have power going to the motor them you may have bad or week motor/gearbox.
Try pulling the auger motor out and putting direct power to the motor.
Power test TIP if your combustion blower and auger motor are the same voltage you can pull the wires off your combustion blower and connect it to the auger motor for constant direct power. When the switch of the stove is turned on.
See if the motor and Shaft at the gear box is turning.
The shaft will turn at 1 complete revolution in 1 minutes for most stove
some are 2 RPM, 3 RPM, 4 RPM or even 6 on some older Martin units.
SOME STOVES HAVE 12 volt motors
If the motor seams strong and is turning and you have power going to the motor FOR SURE from the control board.
Then you have
A auger jam
object jammed in the auger
Bad bushing/Barring
Normally with a STUCK auger system you can tell because you can see the auger motor trying to feed. If you put your finger on the end of the motor you can feel the MOTOR trying to turn every few seconds then stop.
![[Hearth.com] Why wont my Auger feed pellets?](/talk/data/attachments/28/28786-0a2d3cb8fb860bfba8649fca2bd21392.jpg?hash=RkE97Xo7zb)
