0-600 in...

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ecfinn

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 12, 2005
219
Ambler, PA
21 minutes. That's the fastest I've been able to get my cold stove up to temperature. So how fast can you get your stoves up to what you consider the optimum operating temp? I know soapstone will take longer but it also has a lower optimum temp, does it not? Just curious is all...

Eric
 
Well, no need to clean your chimney this year. Anything that was in it is now on your neighbor's roof. :coolgrin:
 
I have a barrel full of ripped 2x12s I keep in the basement for quick starts and reheats... I'll have to give it a try. Probably add some of the Dylan cardboard to get some more light out of it... should be fun.
But, I've wondered if heating things up too quickly stresses joints, etc... not that there'd be much difference between 600 in 20 minutes and 600 in 25 or 30... but still, a thought.

-- Mike
 
1 hour up to 500 stove top temp. Lots of kindling and smaller splits.
 
Its "harder" or should we say can change the parameters on steel in less then an optium outcome for the material to cool then it is to heat, quickly. ( on said stove ) %-P

My issue with quick heat output of the woodstove in a short amount of time is the chimney more so then the wood stove ( what our Brotherbard said in a round about way )

I give our stove 30 minutes to start putting out heat and around 60 minutes to be optimum (400°-550°) operating temp and normally a good running / good heat out put stove is going to be running on its second load after the coal bed load to be running as it should.
 
Today I built a top down fire with good dry cherry. I don't know about stove top temp, but I had decent heat and a 700 chimney temp in about 25 minutes.
 
That was kinda my point pistonslap.

Eric said:
So how fast can you get your stoves up to what you consider the optimum operating temp?

I can/could (but dont) get my shop stoves up to 800° chimney temperature with the stove top only showing around 200° , This is why i tell members when starting a new load not to run it with the door open and also the damper wide open for long periods of time as the chimney get hot but does not do a lot to the stove over running temp.
 
Eric said:
21 minutes. That's the fastest I've been able to get my cold stove up to temperature. So how fast can you get your stoves up to what you consider the optimum operating temp? I know soapstone will take longer but it also has a lower optimum temp, does it not? Just curious is all...

Eric

Was your flue cold too when you started the clock, if my chimney reverses I have to pray to the fire gods to let me not smoke out the living room and suffer spousal abuse . . I'm in my rookie year w/ in the insert so suffice to say it takes 'a long time' in said situation
 
but I am aware that there exist opinions that these stove-top thermometers leave a lot to be desired, when it comes to accuracy.

You got that right , specially after they plunked on the floor and rolling towards the magazine rack!
2 super cedars, some cut pieces about 6 inches long of select red oak flooring strips, and a couple splits of Warren's specially seasoned pine, and hey what the heck lets top with a few chunks of Robbie's home made fatwood, Walla 0 to 900 in "how fast can you say CAll NINE WON WON"
 
Roo,
My wood furnace is in my basement so I don't worry to much about getting it to operating temps on the first load. I try to build a bed of coals fast. The sooner the coals, the less trips up and down the steps.
 
sgc said:
Eric said:
21 minutes. That's the fastest I've been able to get my cold stove up to temperature. So how fast can you get your stoves up to what you consider the optimum operating temp? I know soapstone will take longer but it also has a lower optimum temp, does it not? Just curious is all...

Eric

Was your flue cold too when you started the clock, if my chimney reverses I have to pray to the fire gods to let me not smoke out the living room and suffer spousal abuse . . I'm in my rookie year w/ in the insert so suffice to say it takes 'a long time' in said situation

Yes, the flue was cold too. I'm fortunate in that my chimney is in the center of my house and I've not yet had the pleasure of a chimney reversing on me. :=) I didn't even have to put in an insulated liner. Been working great. I think when I started it up again was after about 3 days when I didn't use really any kind of heat. Highs were in the mid 60s to 73 and lows only in the 50s. When it finally dipped into the upper 30s one night it was time to start her up again. And I'm in my rookie year too. Started in late November. Been doing all kinds of "experiments' to see what does and does not work.

Recipe:
- 1/2 inherited block firestarter of unknown brand or origin
- 5-6 pieces of 3/4" or less kindling
- 6 pieces of ash split to 2" max diameter stacked in a log cabin mode to allow maximum airflow around and between all the
pieces.

-Open damper bypass, Light firestarter, close stove door, Wait 20 minutes, close damper bypass, engage secondaries, ENJOY livingroom at 76 degrees.

Eric (who doesn't cook much but for some reason decided to write a recipe for wood-burning....) You might think I'm getting hooked on this or something. :-)
 
Starting with a stone cold, empty stove (no ashes) I can get the blower on in about 10 minutes from the first light, and peg the thermometer on the "T" behind the stove in about 20 if I don't damp down.

I crumple up balls of newspaper to cover the floor of the fire box, and put a layer of kindling sticks (1/2"-2") on top of the paper, then work up through some smaller size splits or rounds (if I have any handy) and top off with one or two large splits - pretty much stuff the box. I try to shove everything as far in as I can, and leave a bit of a "shelf" on top of the kindling sticks next to the door I dump a big handfull or several of my "spliting yard sweepings" which is a mix of different size bits of bark and wood chips from splitting, plus a few leaves, twigs and whatever else. I open the flue damper all the way, and the bottom spin damper on the loading door (which ducts into the bottom of the fire box), light the papers in a few places and close the door.

The air entering the spin damper acts like a bellows blast to accelerate the burn on the newspaper which gets the sweepings going, etc. The stove literally sounds like a blow torch, and you can see the reflected light coming back out the spin damper... I've learned that I need to watch the stove closely at this point because it won't take long to go from cold to over-fired....

Gooserider
 
It takes me about 15-20min. to get 500-600 degs starting from a cold fire.
 
20 - 30 minutes for me from a cold start. With a little kerosene I could probably get that temp a little quicker!:-)

Craig
 
Try gas it works better.LOL
 
Dylan said:
earthharvester said:
Try gas it works better.

Careful...you might wanna remove that post, or at least print a disclaimer.

What, you don't think farting into the woodstove is a good idea? :red: :lol:

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
Dylan said:
earthharvester said:
Try gas it works better.

Careful...you might wanna remove that post, or at least print a disclaimer.

What, you don't think farting into the woodstove is a good idea? :red: :lol:

Gooserider


Even worse is thinking your gonna fart, except its a bit more moist when coming out.
 
Hogwildz said:
Gooserider said:
Dylan said:
earthharvester said:
Try gas it works better.

Careful...you might wanna remove that post, or at least print a disclaimer.

What, you don't think farting into the woodstove is a good idea? :red: :lol:

Gooserider


Even worse is thinking your gonna fart, except its a bit more moist when coming out.

See thread on burning chit....

Gooserider
 
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