Jake’s Woodburning FAQ
Q. I’m thinking about heating with wood to save money on the heating bills next Winter. Do you think this is a good idea?
A. Uh . . . you’re asking this question in a wood-burning forum. D’oh! Most folks will tell you that burning wood is a great way to save money on heating costs . . . but they will also tell you that there are some drawbacks for some People. Heating with wood is more work than heating with oil or gas . . . even if you buy your wood you need to move the wood, fill the woodstove, clean out the ashes, etc. Heating with wood also can be messy with woodchips in the home. Finally, woodstoves are known as “space heaters” meaning that unlike Central Heating systems it is warmer near the woodstove and cooler the further away you get. There are ways to move the heat around and many folks heat exclusively or help supplement the heat in their house with a woodstove, but to be honest heating with wood does have some drawbacks. Best advice: If you can live with sweeping up woodchips, the occasional ash spill on to the hearth and don’t mind a bit of work, heating with wood can also pay you back in more than just cheap heat – great views of a fire, the sounds of a crackling fire and the smell of potpourri simmering on the stove top cannot be matched by any oil furnace.
Q. Which stove should I buy?
A. Which stove should you buy? Easy answer—the stove that will keep you warm, but not burn down your house. Really, it’s up to you. There are a dizzying amount of choices. New vs. used. Steel vs. cast iron vs. soapstone. Stoves with catalytic combustors vs. stoves that use secondary burning technology. Stoves that are look like flying airplanes, stoves built out of 55-gallon metal drums (I don’t personally recommend these) and stoves that have been built in the 24th century and sent back to our time (OK, I made that last part up – but there are some pretty modern and funky looking stoves.) There are pros- and cons- to what the stove is made out of and what technology it uses for clean burning, but here are the basics.
1) Get the right size stove for your house.
2) Check out the reviews at the stove ratings section found here at hearth.com.
3) Ask questions from the actual users. Honestly, at one time I was convinced that Stove ABC was the one and only stove for me . . . nowadays I am convinced that many stoves would work great . . . there are very few stoves I would not recommend or I would personally shy away from buying myself. Best advice: Size the stove to the size of your home and then start looking at some makes and models to see what you like . . . and ask questions . . . ask lots of questions.
Q. Will this stove (Model X) work for me? According to the manufacturer’s brochure this stove should heat Y amount of space.
A. We get asked this question a lot . . . to begin with you need to look at your square footage of your house, house lay-out (open floor plan vs. closed floor plan), home’s insulation, windows and your own climate. Manufacturers will provide information on how large a space the woodstove model should heat, but you need to keep in mind that these figures are based on laboratory tests and not actual test results in real homes. Here’s an example. Let’s take two equally sized homes. One person lives in a home in Florida with a newer, highly-insulated home with an open floor plan and they only burn occasionally and the other person is living in northern Maine in an 1860s vintage farmhouse with little to no insulation and 50-year-old windows — both these homes may have the same square footage but the folks living in these homes need very different stoves in terms of size. In general I personally suggest figuring out how much space you need to heat in your home . . . find the stove which is the right size to heat that space . . . and then go one size stove larger. We see more folks complain about their stove not being big enough to heat a home than we hear about folks complaining that their stove is too large and it’s too hot. Again, this advice doesn’t always ring true . . . you have to take into account your own situation. Best advice: I’ve heard it said and I believe in this mantra – when you don’t need so much heat out you can always build a smaller fire in a large stove, but when it gets really cold it’s hard to build a larger fire in a small stove when it’s already loaded to the gills with wood.
Q. I’ve been given a free woodstove. Should I use this stove?
A. It depends. Free is good, but not if the stove isn’t safe to use. If you post some pics here we have folks who can give you some idea as to whether the stove is safe to use or not and whether it may have been abused in its past life. In addition, you want to bear in mind that a free, older stove may not be as good as a new stove that you’ll have to pay for . . . older stoves can heat a home fine, but buying a new, EPA stove has its advantages: 1) more heat and burning less wood (which means more free time for you or less money spent working on wood), 2) cleaner burning technology (which is good for your health, the environment and it generally means less creosote build up in the chimney), 3) long burn times (although to be fair some of the old “smoke dragons” had good burn times once you choked them down . . . which of course produced lots of creosote at the same time) and 5) closer clearances to combustibles (which means they often take up less space than pre-EPA stoves.) Best advice: Our fearless-wood burning inventor and hero Benjamin Franklin once said a penny saved is a penny earned . . . which has nothing to do with the following advice . . . but it does tie in to the old saying about being penny-wise and pound-foolish. If you have limited funds and the stove is safe, use the free stove . . . but think long-term . . . even if you have unlimited amounts of wood after awhile having to buy or cut, split and stack a bazillion cords of wood every winter can get old and most of us like to do other things besides work on our wood.
Q. Should I get a stove with secondary burning technology or one with a catalytic combustor? Is there much difference in the way they work?
A. I will not get into which stove technology is better – that’s a whole other debate. What I will say is that at one time I was biased towards secondary burn technology . . . nowadays I still like my stove with its secondary burn technology, but I’m not biased against stoves with catalytic combustors and would certainly not make the technology a deciding factor in choosing a stove. Here’s the basics in as simple terms as I can break it down . . . to get a clean burn in an EPA-approved stove you can use a catalytic combustor which “scrubs” the “bad stuff” in the smoke once the stove reaches a set temperature. While all stoves need seasoned wood, it is especially important to have good, seasoned wood with cat stoves. There is some maintenance associated with these stoves and the combustors need to be replaced over time, but most users say the maintenance is minimal and combustors tend to last for years. Secondary burning technology has a baffle and burn tubes which “collect” the smoke and when a set temperature is reached the combustible materials in that smoke is reburned resulting in the secondary burn. Best advice: Pick out the stove you like the best that suits your needs . . . regardless of the tech . . . and reap the benefits of more heat with less wood, cleaner emissions and the cool view of the fire.
Q. Do I need an OAK (Outside Air Kit)?
A. There are a few perennial debates here at hearth.com where there seems to be no definitive answer: cover the wood stacks or leave them uncovered?, steel, cast iron or soapstone stoves?, catalytic combustor or secondary combustion? . . . And then there is the Outside Air Kit (OAK) debate. An OAK hooks up to your stove and delivers outside air to your stove instead of relying on the air inside your home. I honestly don’t know if you need or want an OAK and as I said there are many, many threads on this topic. I will say this . . . if your stove manual says you need to have an OAK, my own take is that you should install one. If your house is super-insulated you may also want to consider an OAK . . . other than this . . . it’s really hard to say as to whether installing an OAK is crucially important, nice to have or doesn’t make much of a difference. Best advice: Search the threads and make your own decision.
Q. How do I build a hearth? Is it hard?
A. I’m what you would call a Mechanically Disinclined Idiot . . . I have a hard time using a screwdriver without directions and yet I can tell you that building a hearth for your woodstove is one of the easiest projects to do . . . and it will save you a lot of money vs. buying a pre-made hearth or contracting someone to do the job. First things first . . . you need to find out how large you need to build your hearth and if there are any specific requirements for the R-value (insulation) of the hearth. Many stoves only require ember protection which means if the material is non-combustible you should be good to go (although I tend to like to have some R-value included in my hearth). Other stove companies require a set R-value . . . which you can get by using a combination of materials such as Wonderboard, Micore, air space, etc. If you do a quick search you should be able to find a couple of tables which list hearth building materials and their R-values . . . which you can then mix and match to achieve the necessary R value. Most folks recommend starting with a good, solid base . . . and then building on to that with tile or stone – but the actual design will be up to you and your own specific needs. Best advice: Ask questions on your specific hearth needs before you start building . . . and if you get the chance and have the space build a bigger hearth than you need – the extra space is nice as it gives you a place to put your tools and you or your pets will appreciate it in the long run as it will provide a nice place to sit or lay down in front of the warm fire.
Q. I can purchase an optional blower with my stove. Do I need this?
A. As long as we’re not talking about a leaf blower you plan to duct tape to your woodstove . . . you may or may not need a blower. Inserts almost always work best with blowers. Free-standing woodstoves may or may not benefit from a blower. If you have any doubts save your money and try using the stove for a season without the blower . . . if you decide you want the blower you can usually install the blower on your stove fairly easily at a later date. Best advice: If you’re worried about moving heated air through your home try using floor fans pointed towards the stove as this establishes an artificial air current that can help move the heated air into cooler areas of the home.
Q. I’m looking at buying a used stove. How do I know if it has been over-fired or abused?
A. Some possible signs that could indicate over-firing or abuse would include warped baffles and/or doors or other parts, cracked metal in the stove body (especially in the corners) or cracked burn plates, broken parts and a whitish-colored discoloration in the metal. Broken glass and air controls that jam up or do not move freely may or may not also indicate abuse. Best advice: Buying used is a crap shoot . . . don’t be fooled by a stove that looks good and has perfect paint . . . it could be that someone painted the stove with fresh paint to cover up past signs of abuse.
Q. Do I need a Damper for my stove pipe?
A. Installing a damper on your stove pipe may make it harder for Santa to get down the chimney. On a serious note, many folks, if not most folks, do not install dampers when using the new EPA stoves and the stoves run fine without a stovepipe damper. Folks that do install dampers often install them when they have excessive drafts from particularly tall chimneys or as a means to help extinguish a chimney fire or because they grew up expecting and using the damper on the stove pipe. Best advice: If you’re not sure if you need a damper try running your woodstove for a few weeks without one . . . if you need one they’re cheap and relatively easy to install at a later date.
Q. I’m installing my woodstove, but I want to put it a little closer to the wall/mantel/etc. Would it be a problem if I was just an inch or two or three closer than what the manual says I should be at for clearances?
A. The short answer: yes. While the stove manufacturers may err on the side of caution when it comes to clearances, the truth is today’s stoves have pretty tight clearances already . . . going any closer than the minimum clearance distance is not a good idea . . . unless you don’t value life or those living in the home. Maintaining clearance distances is one of those hard-and-fast rules which should never be broken . . . even if it means the stove juts out an inch or two extra into the living room. Best advice: The numbers in the manuals are not arbitrary – they’re there for a reason and the results of exact testing. Heed them.
Burn baby burn . . . questions about stove chow . . . aka wood
Q. I decided to get a woodstove last month . . . unfortunately I now realize that in another month I will be burning and I don’t have any seasoned wood. I have some wood that I cut up this past summer, but I don’t think that will be ready to burn. Any suggestions?
A. Short of finding a dealer who has actual, seasoned wood (and many believe they are selling seasoned wood, when in fact it doesn’t meet most hearth.com member’s definition of “seasoned wood”) or trading someone your unseasoned wood for some seasoned wood (usually with more wood going to the person who has the seasoned wood) . . . perhaps your best chances of still using the semi-seasoned wood is to find some pallets, break these pallets up and use this wood to help start the fire and “dry” the moisture out of your semi-seasoned wood. You can also use slab wood (the wood not used by lumber mills and wood processing plants) to help burn your marginal wood. Some folks have some luck finding and burning standing dead trees — although this is a hit and miss proposition — sometimes the standing dead wood is good to burn that day and sometimes it will take several months to season before it truly is good to go. A final option is to buy some of the processed wood products which is compressed sawdust in a brick or log-like form. Best advice: Many of us were in the same proverbial boat as you in our first year. Start cutting now to avoid this problem next year . . . and in the meantime whatever method you use to get you by this year do yourself one favor and check your chimney frequently since burning marginal wood can result in more creosote build up.
Q. Will my wood be seasoned by _____ (insert month and year)?
A. I don’t know. Send me the wood and I’ll burn it in __ (number) of months and let you know if it’s good to go. You’ll get a lot of answers here ranging from Species A will be seasoned in __ (insert number) months, but Species B will take __ (insert number) months. There are some species of wood that seem to season faster (i.e. white ash or cherry), but in reality the only true way to tell if your wood is seasoned and will burn is with a moisture meter . That said, being the simple, country boy you can also do what I do and go low-tech . . . which means cutting, splitting and stacking the wood for at least a year . . . which is about the amount of time it takes most wood to fully season (the exception being denser woods like oak.) Best advice: A lot of dealers say the wood is seasoned . . . and it is . . . at least to their definition which may or may not mean it is truly seasoned and ready to burn. Once you burn truly seasoned wood you will never want to go back to burning semi-seasoned wood.
Q. What wood species is this?
A. Ah, the rarely seen Treeus Specificus. For best results post a picture showing the bark, inner wood, rings and leaves . . . and let us know where you live. Trying to describe a piece of wood as brown with bark and green leaves is not very helpful. Best advice: We like pictures.
Q. What is the best way to get firewood?
A. From your father-in-law who has been cutting, splitting and stacking wood for years since he knew at some point he would need to give his future son-in-law a dowry . . . and here it is – 12 cords of fully seasoned oak. Reality check . . . it depends. If you’re talking about the most inexpensive way to buy wood and you have the space and equipment (i.e. chainsaw) the best way in terms of price is to order your wood in tree-length. If you’re talking about the best way to get free wood by scrounging many folks would say checking Craigslist, checking in with tree service companies, talking to friends, family and co-workers so they know you are looking for wood and just asking folks if you see a cut tree on their property. If you’re talking about the best way to get seasoned wood from a dealer perhaps the best advice is to ask questions, get referrals from folks and check the wood yourself with a moisture meter (remembering to split the wood) before they dump it off at your house to see if it is truly seasoned . . . realizing that in fact most dealers may think their wood is seasoned enough when it may not be . . . many folks buy this wood realizing they will have to season it themselves for several more months. Best advice: Free wood is good wood . . . no matter what the species. I never pass up free wood, even if I have access to wood on my family land . . . especially if it is close and has been bucked up. That said, I also believe there is no such thing as “free wood” since even wood on your own woodlot requires equipment and the cost of gas to cut, split and move the wood from the great outdoors to your home.
Q. Can I burn _______ (fill in species of wood)?
A. Please send this wood to me first class, postage-paid and I’ll do a scientific test to see if you can burn it . . . which will basically consist of me putting it into my woodstove and setting it on fire. If it’s wood and it’s seasoned you can pretty much burn any wood species . . . there are few wood species that will not or cannot be burned in a woodstove. It may or may not go without saying that many manufacturers do not recommend burning driftwood in the stove (due to the salt content) and treated wood (i.e. pressure treated, painted, stained, etc.) are not a good fuel source due to the contaminants released into the air. Best advice: Yes . . . you can burn pine. No . . . it will not burn down your house, cause a chimney fire or result in baldness – it’s just a sad coincidence that I am going bald and burn pine. See next question.
Q. Can I burn pine in my woodstove?
A. Oh no. Pine? In a woodstove? Run for the hills. Hide the women and children! Burning pine will summon the Apocalyptic Four Horsemen. Short answer: Yes. Long answer: Any wood that is seasoned will burn . . . even softwood, although here in the East folks typically burn hardwood since it results in higher BTUs than the white pine we have here in Maine. Pine will not cause a chimney fire . . . many folks have been burning softwood, including pine, for years . . . including folks who only have access to softwood. Best advice: Make sure you season the pine just like any other wood – just because it feels lighter in weight doesn’t mean it is seasoned two months after it has been cut and split.
Q. What is a cord of wood?
A. A cord of wood = pure bliss and happiness in middle of January. A cord of wood is 128 cubic feet, although many folks measure out a cord and define it as wood measuring 4 feet high x 4 feet wide x 8 feet long. A face cord is wood of shorter length that is stacked 4 feet high by 8 feet long but it typically comes in 16 -20 inch widths (or similar sizes). Best advice: A “chord” is a musical term . . . a cord is a term used in cutting and selling wood . . . make sure when you are comparing prices at dealers they are talking about a full cord of wood or face cords – in some states it is not legal to sell face cords of wood.
Q. What should I do if my wood gets wet from the rain or covered in snow?
A. Don’t worry. Be happy. Now that you’ve got that Bobby Brown song in your head, here’s the best advice. If the wood is seasoned already, it’s not a big deal. Bring the wood inside and in a few hours in front of the stove (but not too close) that wood will be dry . . . snow and rain is only surface moisture and unless you’re burning sponges in your stove instead of wood you’ll be OK. Best advice: Bring it inside . . . no need to try drying it out in the oven . . . or microwave.
Q. Should I cover my wood pile or not?
A. There are a few topics which invariably have two diametrically opposing sides . . . each side will vehemently argue that their way is the right way. This is another one of those types of debates. Some folks will not cover their stacks at all . . . some will leave them uncovered for a year or so and then cover them . . . some folks will leave them uncovered, but cover them in the Fall. For me personally . . . I leave them uncovered for a year to season . . . and then put the wood in a woodshed . . . but that’s what works for me. Best advice: Most folks that cover their stacks – either for a short time or all the time – agree on one point. If you’re going to cover your wood just cover the top part . . . do not drape the cover all the way down to the ground . . . doing so impedes the air flow which of course is what helps season the wood.
Q. I’m thinking about heating with wood to save money on the heating bills next Winter. Do you think this is a good idea?
A. Uh . . . you’re asking this question in a wood-burning forum. D’oh! Most folks will tell you that burning wood is a great way to save money on heating costs . . . but they will also tell you that there are some drawbacks for some People. Heating with wood is more work than heating with oil or gas . . . even if you buy your wood you need to move the wood, fill the woodstove, clean out the ashes, etc. Heating with wood also can be messy with woodchips in the home. Finally, woodstoves are known as “space heaters” meaning that unlike Central Heating systems it is warmer near the woodstove and cooler the further away you get. There are ways to move the heat around and many folks heat exclusively or help supplement the heat in their house with a woodstove, but to be honest heating with wood does have some drawbacks. Best advice: If you can live with sweeping up woodchips, the occasional ash spill on to the hearth and don’t mind a bit of work, heating with wood can also pay you back in more than just cheap heat – great views of a fire, the sounds of a crackling fire and the smell of potpourri simmering on the stove top cannot be matched by any oil furnace.
Q. Which stove should I buy?
A. Which stove should you buy? Easy answer—the stove that will keep you warm, but not burn down your house. Really, it’s up to you. There are a dizzying amount of choices. New vs. used. Steel vs. cast iron vs. soapstone. Stoves with catalytic combustors vs. stoves that use secondary burning technology. Stoves that are look like flying airplanes, stoves built out of 55-gallon metal drums (I don’t personally recommend these) and stoves that have been built in the 24th century and sent back to our time (OK, I made that last part up – but there are some pretty modern and funky looking stoves.) There are pros- and cons- to what the stove is made out of and what technology it uses for clean burning, but here are the basics.
1) Get the right size stove for your house.
2) Check out the reviews at the stove ratings section found here at hearth.com.
3) Ask questions from the actual users. Honestly, at one time I was convinced that Stove ABC was the one and only stove for me . . . nowadays I am convinced that many stoves would work great . . . there are very few stoves I would not recommend or I would personally shy away from buying myself. Best advice: Size the stove to the size of your home and then start looking at some makes and models to see what you like . . . and ask questions . . . ask lots of questions.
Q. Will this stove (Model X) work for me? According to the manufacturer’s brochure this stove should heat Y amount of space.
A. We get asked this question a lot . . . to begin with you need to look at your square footage of your house, house lay-out (open floor plan vs. closed floor plan), home’s insulation, windows and your own climate. Manufacturers will provide information on how large a space the woodstove model should heat, but you need to keep in mind that these figures are based on laboratory tests and not actual test results in real homes. Here’s an example. Let’s take two equally sized homes. One person lives in a home in Florida with a newer, highly-insulated home with an open floor plan and they only burn occasionally and the other person is living in northern Maine in an 1860s vintage farmhouse with little to no insulation and 50-year-old windows — both these homes may have the same square footage but the folks living in these homes need very different stoves in terms of size. In general I personally suggest figuring out how much space you need to heat in your home . . . find the stove which is the right size to heat that space . . . and then go one size stove larger. We see more folks complain about their stove not being big enough to heat a home than we hear about folks complaining that their stove is too large and it’s too hot. Again, this advice doesn’t always ring true . . . you have to take into account your own situation. Best advice: I’ve heard it said and I believe in this mantra – when you don’t need so much heat out you can always build a smaller fire in a large stove, but when it gets really cold it’s hard to build a larger fire in a small stove when it’s already loaded to the gills with wood.
Q. I’ve been given a free woodstove. Should I use this stove?
A. It depends. Free is good, but not if the stove isn’t safe to use. If you post some pics here we have folks who can give you some idea as to whether the stove is safe to use or not and whether it may have been abused in its past life. In addition, you want to bear in mind that a free, older stove may not be as good as a new stove that you’ll have to pay for . . . older stoves can heat a home fine, but buying a new, EPA stove has its advantages: 1) more heat and burning less wood (which means more free time for you or less money spent working on wood), 2) cleaner burning technology (which is good for your health, the environment and it generally means less creosote build up in the chimney), 3) long burn times (although to be fair some of the old “smoke dragons” had good burn times once you choked them down . . . which of course produced lots of creosote at the same time) and 5) closer clearances to combustibles (which means they often take up less space than pre-EPA stoves.) Best advice: Our fearless-wood burning inventor and hero Benjamin Franklin once said a penny saved is a penny earned . . . which has nothing to do with the following advice . . . but it does tie in to the old saying about being penny-wise and pound-foolish. If you have limited funds and the stove is safe, use the free stove . . . but think long-term . . . even if you have unlimited amounts of wood after awhile having to buy or cut, split and stack a bazillion cords of wood every winter can get old and most of us like to do other things besides work on our wood.
Q. Should I get a stove with secondary burning technology or one with a catalytic combustor? Is there much difference in the way they work?
A. I will not get into which stove technology is better – that’s a whole other debate. What I will say is that at one time I was biased towards secondary burn technology . . . nowadays I still like my stove with its secondary burn technology, but I’m not biased against stoves with catalytic combustors and would certainly not make the technology a deciding factor in choosing a stove. Here’s the basics in as simple terms as I can break it down . . . to get a clean burn in an EPA-approved stove you can use a catalytic combustor which “scrubs” the “bad stuff” in the smoke once the stove reaches a set temperature. While all stoves need seasoned wood, it is especially important to have good, seasoned wood with cat stoves. There is some maintenance associated with these stoves and the combustors need to be replaced over time, but most users say the maintenance is minimal and combustors tend to last for years. Secondary burning technology has a baffle and burn tubes which “collect” the smoke and when a set temperature is reached the combustible materials in that smoke is reburned resulting in the secondary burn. Best advice: Pick out the stove you like the best that suits your needs . . . regardless of the tech . . . and reap the benefits of more heat with less wood, cleaner emissions and the cool view of the fire.
Q. Do I need an OAK (Outside Air Kit)?
A. There are a few perennial debates here at hearth.com where there seems to be no definitive answer: cover the wood stacks or leave them uncovered?, steel, cast iron or soapstone stoves?, catalytic combustor or secondary combustion? . . . And then there is the Outside Air Kit (OAK) debate. An OAK hooks up to your stove and delivers outside air to your stove instead of relying on the air inside your home. I honestly don’t know if you need or want an OAK and as I said there are many, many threads on this topic. I will say this . . . if your stove manual says you need to have an OAK, my own take is that you should install one. If your house is super-insulated you may also want to consider an OAK . . . other than this . . . it’s really hard to say as to whether installing an OAK is crucially important, nice to have or doesn’t make much of a difference. Best advice: Search the threads and make your own decision.
Q. How do I build a hearth? Is it hard?
A. I’m what you would call a Mechanically Disinclined Idiot . . . I have a hard time using a screwdriver without directions and yet I can tell you that building a hearth for your woodstove is one of the easiest projects to do . . . and it will save you a lot of money vs. buying a pre-made hearth or contracting someone to do the job. First things first . . . you need to find out how large you need to build your hearth and if there are any specific requirements for the R-value (insulation) of the hearth. Many stoves only require ember protection which means if the material is non-combustible you should be good to go (although I tend to like to have some R-value included in my hearth). Other stove companies require a set R-value . . . which you can get by using a combination of materials such as Wonderboard, Micore, air space, etc. If you do a quick search you should be able to find a couple of tables which list hearth building materials and their R-values . . . which you can then mix and match to achieve the necessary R value. Most folks recommend starting with a good, solid base . . . and then building on to that with tile or stone – but the actual design will be up to you and your own specific needs. Best advice: Ask questions on your specific hearth needs before you start building . . . and if you get the chance and have the space build a bigger hearth than you need – the extra space is nice as it gives you a place to put your tools and you or your pets will appreciate it in the long run as it will provide a nice place to sit or lay down in front of the warm fire.
Q. I can purchase an optional blower with my stove. Do I need this?
A. As long as we’re not talking about a leaf blower you plan to duct tape to your woodstove . . . you may or may not need a blower. Inserts almost always work best with blowers. Free-standing woodstoves may or may not benefit from a blower. If you have any doubts save your money and try using the stove for a season without the blower . . . if you decide you want the blower you can usually install the blower on your stove fairly easily at a later date. Best advice: If you’re worried about moving heated air through your home try using floor fans pointed towards the stove as this establishes an artificial air current that can help move the heated air into cooler areas of the home.
Q. I’m looking at buying a used stove. How do I know if it has been over-fired or abused?
A. Some possible signs that could indicate over-firing or abuse would include warped baffles and/or doors or other parts, cracked metal in the stove body (especially in the corners) or cracked burn plates, broken parts and a whitish-colored discoloration in the metal. Broken glass and air controls that jam up or do not move freely may or may not also indicate abuse. Best advice: Buying used is a crap shoot . . . don’t be fooled by a stove that looks good and has perfect paint . . . it could be that someone painted the stove with fresh paint to cover up past signs of abuse.
Q. Do I need a Damper for my stove pipe?
A. Installing a damper on your stove pipe may make it harder for Santa to get down the chimney. On a serious note, many folks, if not most folks, do not install dampers when using the new EPA stoves and the stoves run fine without a stovepipe damper. Folks that do install dampers often install them when they have excessive drafts from particularly tall chimneys or as a means to help extinguish a chimney fire or because they grew up expecting and using the damper on the stove pipe. Best advice: If you’re not sure if you need a damper try running your woodstove for a few weeks without one . . . if you need one they’re cheap and relatively easy to install at a later date.
Q. I’m installing my woodstove, but I want to put it a little closer to the wall/mantel/etc. Would it be a problem if I was just an inch or two or three closer than what the manual says I should be at for clearances?
A. The short answer: yes. While the stove manufacturers may err on the side of caution when it comes to clearances, the truth is today’s stoves have pretty tight clearances already . . . going any closer than the minimum clearance distance is not a good idea . . . unless you don’t value life or those living in the home. Maintaining clearance distances is one of those hard-and-fast rules which should never be broken . . . even if it means the stove juts out an inch or two extra into the living room. Best advice: The numbers in the manuals are not arbitrary – they’re there for a reason and the results of exact testing. Heed them.
Burn baby burn . . . questions about stove chow . . . aka wood
Q. I decided to get a woodstove last month . . . unfortunately I now realize that in another month I will be burning and I don’t have any seasoned wood. I have some wood that I cut up this past summer, but I don’t think that will be ready to burn. Any suggestions?
A. Short of finding a dealer who has actual, seasoned wood (and many believe they are selling seasoned wood, when in fact it doesn’t meet most hearth.com member’s definition of “seasoned wood”) or trading someone your unseasoned wood for some seasoned wood (usually with more wood going to the person who has the seasoned wood) . . . perhaps your best chances of still using the semi-seasoned wood is to find some pallets, break these pallets up and use this wood to help start the fire and “dry” the moisture out of your semi-seasoned wood. You can also use slab wood (the wood not used by lumber mills and wood processing plants) to help burn your marginal wood. Some folks have some luck finding and burning standing dead trees — although this is a hit and miss proposition — sometimes the standing dead wood is good to burn that day and sometimes it will take several months to season before it truly is good to go. A final option is to buy some of the processed wood products which is compressed sawdust in a brick or log-like form. Best advice: Many of us were in the same proverbial boat as you in our first year. Start cutting now to avoid this problem next year . . . and in the meantime whatever method you use to get you by this year do yourself one favor and check your chimney frequently since burning marginal wood can result in more creosote build up.
Q. Will my wood be seasoned by _____ (insert month and year)?
A. I don’t know. Send me the wood and I’ll burn it in __ (number) of months and let you know if it’s good to go. You’ll get a lot of answers here ranging from Species A will be seasoned in __ (insert number) months, but Species B will take __ (insert number) months. There are some species of wood that seem to season faster (i.e. white ash or cherry), but in reality the only true way to tell if your wood is seasoned and will burn is with a moisture meter . That said, being the simple, country boy you can also do what I do and go low-tech . . . which means cutting, splitting and stacking the wood for at least a year . . . which is about the amount of time it takes most wood to fully season (the exception being denser woods like oak.) Best advice: A lot of dealers say the wood is seasoned . . . and it is . . . at least to their definition which may or may not mean it is truly seasoned and ready to burn. Once you burn truly seasoned wood you will never want to go back to burning semi-seasoned wood.
Q. What wood species is this?
A. Ah, the rarely seen Treeus Specificus. For best results post a picture showing the bark, inner wood, rings and leaves . . . and let us know where you live. Trying to describe a piece of wood as brown with bark and green leaves is not very helpful. Best advice: We like pictures.
Q. What is the best way to get firewood?
A. From your father-in-law who has been cutting, splitting and stacking wood for years since he knew at some point he would need to give his future son-in-law a dowry . . . and here it is – 12 cords of fully seasoned oak. Reality check . . . it depends. If you’re talking about the most inexpensive way to buy wood and you have the space and equipment (i.e. chainsaw) the best way in terms of price is to order your wood in tree-length. If you’re talking about the best way to get free wood by scrounging many folks would say checking Craigslist, checking in with tree service companies, talking to friends, family and co-workers so they know you are looking for wood and just asking folks if you see a cut tree on their property. If you’re talking about the best way to get seasoned wood from a dealer perhaps the best advice is to ask questions, get referrals from folks and check the wood yourself with a moisture meter (remembering to split the wood) before they dump it off at your house to see if it is truly seasoned . . . realizing that in fact most dealers may think their wood is seasoned enough when it may not be . . . many folks buy this wood realizing they will have to season it themselves for several more months. Best advice: Free wood is good wood . . . no matter what the species. I never pass up free wood, even if I have access to wood on my family land . . . especially if it is close and has been bucked up. That said, I also believe there is no such thing as “free wood” since even wood on your own woodlot requires equipment and the cost of gas to cut, split and move the wood from the great outdoors to your home.
Q. Can I burn _______ (fill in species of wood)?
A. Please send this wood to me first class, postage-paid and I’ll do a scientific test to see if you can burn it . . . which will basically consist of me putting it into my woodstove and setting it on fire. If it’s wood and it’s seasoned you can pretty much burn any wood species . . . there are few wood species that will not or cannot be burned in a woodstove. It may or may not go without saying that many manufacturers do not recommend burning driftwood in the stove (due to the salt content) and treated wood (i.e. pressure treated, painted, stained, etc.) are not a good fuel source due to the contaminants released into the air. Best advice: Yes . . . you can burn pine. No . . . it will not burn down your house, cause a chimney fire or result in baldness – it’s just a sad coincidence that I am going bald and burn pine. See next question.
Q. Can I burn pine in my woodstove?
A. Oh no. Pine? In a woodstove? Run for the hills. Hide the women and children! Burning pine will summon the Apocalyptic Four Horsemen. Short answer: Yes. Long answer: Any wood that is seasoned will burn . . . even softwood, although here in the East folks typically burn hardwood since it results in higher BTUs than the white pine we have here in Maine. Pine will not cause a chimney fire . . . many folks have been burning softwood, including pine, for years . . . including folks who only have access to softwood. Best advice: Make sure you season the pine just like any other wood – just because it feels lighter in weight doesn’t mean it is seasoned two months after it has been cut and split.
Q. What is a cord of wood?
A. A cord of wood = pure bliss and happiness in middle of January. A cord of wood is 128 cubic feet, although many folks measure out a cord and define it as wood measuring 4 feet high x 4 feet wide x 8 feet long. A face cord is wood of shorter length that is stacked 4 feet high by 8 feet long but it typically comes in 16 -20 inch widths (or similar sizes). Best advice: A “chord” is a musical term . . . a cord is a term used in cutting and selling wood . . . make sure when you are comparing prices at dealers they are talking about a full cord of wood or face cords – in some states it is not legal to sell face cords of wood.
Q. What should I do if my wood gets wet from the rain or covered in snow?
A. Don’t worry. Be happy. Now that you’ve got that Bobby Brown song in your head, here’s the best advice. If the wood is seasoned already, it’s not a big deal. Bring the wood inside and in a few hours in front of the stove (but not too close) that wood will be dry . . . snow and rain is only surface moisture and unless you’re burning sponges in your stove instead of wood you’ll be OK. Best advice: Bring it inside . . . no need to try drying it out in the oven . . . or microwave.
Q. Should I cover my wood pile or not?
A. There are a few topics which invariably have two diametrically opposing sides . . . each side will vehemently argue that their way is the right way. This is another one of those types of debates. Some folks will not cover their stacks at all . . . some will leave them uncovered for a year or so and then cover them . . . some folks will leave them uncovered, but cover them in the Fall. For me personally . . . I leave them uncovered for a year to season . . . and then put the wood in a woodshed . . . but that’s what works for me. Best advice: Most folks that cover their stacks – either for a short time or all the time – agree on one point. If you’re going to cover your wood just cover the top part . . . do not drape the cover all the way down to the ground . . . doing so impedes the air flow which of course is what helps season the wood.