Hearthlist Digest #569 - Tuesday, February 20, 2001 pipe for sears stove by "HEARTH AND HOME DESIGN CENTER" <[email protected]> Outside Air requirements by "Craig Issod" <[email protected]> RE: DV pipe and sealants... by "by way of Craig Issod" <[email protected]>
(back) Subject: pipe for sears stove From: "HEARTH AND HOME DESIGN CENTER" <[email protected]> Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 18:26:53 -0500 I have a customer that has a sears free standing forced air circulating wood fireplace . He needs piping for this . The model # is 155.841851(warm brown).I have the instrution booklet and it lists 10" outer and 8" Inner pipe as i read it . My question to anyone who is familar with these old things is what pipe can we get for him. Or is this a preeway type issue? It is still in the original wrap when he bought it back in the 80's ,Do you think sears will give him credit if he is out of luck on the pipe?LOL Thanks Steve
(back) Subject: Outside Air requirements From: "Craig Issod" <[email protected]> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:03:50 -0500 Any summary on which states require outside air for wood stoves? Do they require it just for new construction, or for retrofits also? Thanks. -- ------------------------------------------------------ Craig Issod HearthNet at http://www.hearth.com [email protected] Everything your Hearth Desires ------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------
(back) Subject: RE: DV pipe and sealants... From: "by way of Craig Issod" <[email protected]> Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 14:55:04 -0500 "Does any one have a list of manufacturers that 'utilized sealants during the course of testing,' their DV stoves? The condensation I have witnessed inside some brands of DV stoves during yearly maintenance has always concerned me. Now I'm wondering if I should be pulling apart some of this venting during yearly service calls to inspect it since there is no other way to inspect the inner liner. Also on the same note, I have had a large number of customers from three different competitors come into my shop asking me if there is any way to restrict the hot side of their DV's to gain more heat in the house!!! One gentleman informed me that during an energy audit of his house the inspector estimated that 80% of the appliances heat was going out the DV pipe, how he estimated this I don't now, but this guy was burning 5 gallons of propane a day! Anyone else running into this dangerous request." The efficiency of an appliance is often misused in the application. What = is often missed is that a stove, like a car, is not very efficient when used = is short bursts (city vs. highway). You have to let it run for a while and = let it achieve its "steady state" temperatures. This is why you often hear the argument "it is never on for very long periods but it is using up a lot of fuel". The big stoves which are put in for big flame picture but where a = lot of heat is not needed and the optional turn down and controlled heat = release through a thermostat are used to compensate , are often the least = efficient installations. Unless you are going to leave the stove on for a while you will not maximize your fuel dollar. Use a smaller stove and leave it on longer to achieve the same heat output as a large appliance which is used = in short bursts and you will start saving $. Oh, and never restrict the hot side of a DV beyond prescribed = manufacturers limits. Combustion issues- bad combustion (sooting and environmental hazards). Safety issues - you do not want to increase the heat transfer to the outer pipe or off of the appliance. Heat release is part of the design equation and the listing (clearances and component temperatures) and you never want to compromise the limits of an appliance for your consumers safety. As to the condensation: When is it occurring? I am curious as to why the condensation is leading you to question the integrity of the inner pipe seams or the material. Aluminum or stainless core pipe should have no problems with corrosion. It is unlikely that the condensation would be created at a time when it could cause separation problems, such as = freezing and separating the joints, as the most common source is the gas combustion itself or cold intake air meeting the hot exhaust pipe. Please explain = your question further. At any rate, you will find the possibility of pulling apart the venting = for inspection every year a very daunting task to say the least. My experience of attempting to assemble and reassemble venting time and time again after usage in the lab has been very frustrating, I have a fairly large = recycling bin to say the least. Even un-sealed venting eventually binds up from heating and cooling . Tomas Kucera