What is your method for curing paint?

[mobetter]

Just painted the old girl yesterday. 24 hours and I'm breaking it in as I type.I have a nice load in it now and have it choked down pretty much all the way.Should I just let it burn out, cool and try a hotter fire tomorrow?Or should I keep it going and keep it nice and hot for a few hours?I have it running in my barn with both sliders open, so the fumes are no worry.What methods have you used in the past with success, or any to avoid?By the way I used Rustoleum high heat and put it on with a brush after sand blasting.It is an old Country Comfort made with .250 boiler plate and cast iron doors.The brush stroke marks are quite obvious now, will they level out after curing?

 

[littlesmokey]

I think you may have a problem. You should check the can or contact the manufacturer's customer service, but you may have pre-emptively heated your stove. Some paints require several hours to days to outgas. That is to release the VOC's that are used to make the paint. They are designed to do this in a certain order of release. This hardens the paint and makes it more temperature resistent. Unless it's heat cured it should not be heated. It may really affect adhesion to the base metal. Give them a call and see if you will have to start over or plan to repaint in a year or so.

 

[Corey]

The label (broken link removed to http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgimages/documents/SP_32oz_HighHeat.pdf) recommends waiting 24 hours before heating. Sounds like you're in the green there. I would think once that time is elapsed, you should be able to heat it to the max rated temperature of 1000F with no harm. Though I think the brush stroke marks will be set once the paint has set. One possibility [would have been] to use a roller which would have made a textured surface instead of brush marks - though the instructions also recommend against a second coat, so you can't really re-coat to change the texture. It looks like either live with the brush marks or head back to the sand blaster.

 

[mobetter]

Yeah, I see why they don't recommend a second coat.


The recesses where the paint got too thick are dry and crackly looking.


I think it will be all good after a few fires, guess will have to wait and see.


Been burning a steady hot fire in her for over 4 hours, the brush marks are leveling nicely.


I will post a before and after in the morning.

 

[Corey]

Been burning a steady hot fire in her for over 4 hours, the brush marks are leveling nicely.

Well, that is interesting - guess I was wrong. I surely figured once the solvent was gone, the paint would be 'set' and no further leveling would take place. Keep firing, I guess - maybe it will set nice and smooth after all.

 

[mobetter]

Seems the brush marks are still there, but fading.


The finish is much duller than before the cure, almost powdery.

I wonder if I could re-coat with a roller now that it has had a cure cycle.

The label is sort of misleading, it states "second coat not recommended".

Further down the label it states recoat in bla bla hours.

It's no biggie really as this old girl just sits out in the barn rusting most of the time.

Next time I think I would try spraying, because if you look at my paint jobs around the house, rollers leave marks too!

Before and after:







.

 

[mobetter]

I think you may have a problem. You should check the can or contact the manufacturer's customer service, but you may have pre-emptively heated your stove. Some paints require several hours to days to outgas. That is to release the VOC's that are used to make the paint. They are designed to do this in a certain order of release. This hardens the paint and makes it more temperature resistent. Unless it's heat cured it should not be heated. It may really affect adhesion to the base metal. Give them a call and see if you will have to start over or plan to repaint in a year or so.

DUDE,



Me thinks your avatar should be the Lion!

Or better yet this guy;

http://www.celebritywonder.com/wp/Chicken_Little_Wallpaper_5_1280.jpg