Ventless gas w/ no chimney to wood insert

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

bmac111

New Member
Jan 22, 2024
7
Indiana
I currently have a fireplace with a vent less gas system in place that I've never used and don't have a desire to use. I'm looking to replace it with a wood burning insert. I have no chimney, but am capable of running a Class A chimney pipe within code, up through the attic/roof. I know that most of these wood burning inserts call for a a chimney liner, but obviously without a chimney, I can't use a chimney liner. Does the Class A chimney pipe work in the same way as a liner or is that a no go because the units are only tested with the liner system?

The current fireplace is a brick hearth, but I'm not sure what lines the back of it other than the metal box that the gas system is enclosed with. I'm sure this will be a factor as well. I've read somewhat about zero clearance units. I'm just trying to determine what my options would be to get a wood burning insert. My fireplace is in my living room, in a corner wall. It is not on an outside wall, so venting would have to go straight up through the attic/roof.

I can supply some pictures/measurements if that would help someone in helping me! Thanks in advance!

IMG_2046.jpeg
 
Last edited:
If this is a prefab, gas fireplace it can not have an insert installed. Sometimes the easiest approach it to take it out and start anew. Pictures indoors and out are always welcome. They will help with assessment.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjam
If this is a prefab, gas fireplace it can not have an insert installed. Sometimes the easiest approach it to take it out and start anew. Pictures indoors and out are always welcome. They will help with assessment.
Thanks for your quick reply! I’ve attached a photo to the original post. The measurement of the opening in the brick is 34.5 wide by 40.5 tall. I planned on ripping all of that metal out and replacing with an insert. Not just simply taking the logs out and putting an insert in. If that’s what you were referring to.
 
Yes, that looks like a gas Zero Clearance (ZC) fireplace. By insert, do you mean a wood burning Zero Clearance fireplace? The reference to insert and needing a liner seems not. By description, this unit is not a full masonry fireplace. It probably is a brick veneer on a wood framed enclosure. An insert can not be put in this location. It must go into a proper masonry fireplace or in some cases, an approved, wood burning, ZC fireplace.
 
Thanks for your quick reply! I’ve attached a photo to the original post. The measurement of the opening in the brick is 34.5 wide by 40.5 tall. I planned on ripping all of that metal out and replacing with an insert. Not just simply taking the logs out and putting an insert in. If that’s what you were referring to.
An insert needs to go inside a working wood burning fireplace. You don't have that you have framing with a masonry face. What you need is a high efficiency prefab wood fireplace
 
Yes, that looks like a gas Zero Clearance (ZC) fireplace. By insert, do you mean a wood burning Zero Clearance fireplace? The reference to insert and needing a liner seems not. By description, this unit is not a full masonry fireplace. It probably is a brick veneer on a wood framed enclosure. An insert can not be put in this location. It must go into a proper masonry fireplace or in some cases, an approved, wood burning, ZC fireplace.
My question was whether it was suitable for an insert or not. Both you and bholler answered that with no. Sounds as if my only option would be a zero clearance unit, which I'm assuming is also the same terminology for "prefab" unit.
 
Yes, that's correct. This situation is similar to another ongoing thread:
 
Yes, that's correct. This situation is similar to another ongoing thread:
Thanks for the link. I somehow missed that thread which would have answered my initial questions.

Now that I know what my option is, with a zero clearance unit, I can run class A pipe through the attic and roof to vent? Staying within code of course. I don't have the option of going exterior and then up.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the link. I somehow missed that thread which would have answered my initial questions.

Now that I know what my option is, with a zero tolerance unit, I can run class A pipe through the attic and roof to vent? Staying within code of course. I don't have the option of going exterior and then up.
Yes. Straight up through the house is actually better and preferred.
 
Yes. Straight up through the house is actually better and preferred.
Awesome thanks for that info.

I see several people using/suggesting/having good luck with the kozyheat z42. Do you think that is a good candidate for my opening? Seems like it would fit. I'm just a bit confused about minimum height to the mantle, with my mantle surrounding the fireplace.
 
So my opening in the brick is 34.5in wide by 40.5 inches tall. So far I'm striking out on options for ZC wood boxes that I can fit. There's also the issue of the mantel being 8 inches away from the edge of the opening. I'm really not wanting to demo everything and completely rebuild. Anyone know of any options they can point me in the direction of that might work? Wood burning or pellet burning?
 
There will be some demo work. Somehow the old unit must come out. That means opening up the front or opening up the outside wall. It will take some research, but there are 2 cu ft units by Astria, RSF that may fit. The Pacific Energy FP16 is a bit smaller yet.
 
There will be some demo work. Somehow the old unit must come out. That means opening up the front or opening up the outside wall. It will take some research, but there are 2 cu ft units by Astria, RSF that may fit. The Pacific Energy FP16 is a bit smaller yet.
I believe I can get the old unit out without tearing into the brick veneer. I could be wrong though. At the end of the day if I have to do that then the entire wall is coming out and I’ll be getting a unit that I can frame around, but I’m trying to avoid doing that.

Thanks for the info though. I’ll check those out and see if the sizing and clearances will work for me.
 
Typically there is a cabinet housing behind the opening that is larger than the front. That definitely will be the case with a wood burning replacement and access needs to be there for connecting the chimney, outside air supply, power.