I purchased a Regency F2450 high-efficiency stove. We had all kinds of issues with getting a fire started. Over time we learned that if it is under 250 it needs a lot of TLC. However at the end of the season the chimney was almost 100 percent occluded. I checked with the dealer and they NEVER called me back.(no help). I finally was able to clean it out and started using it this season, within 6 weeks, it is again plugged enough that it will not draft enough to support a fire. I am looking for any help I can get. Firebox runs at 400-500 and stack is about 250. 10ft single wall inside, 15ft Triple wall outside stack. Thanks.
Creosote buildup in a f2450
- Thread starter castlecreek
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Wood is 1 year old and has been inside after it dried outside. Last year it had been snowed on a little but was aged and dry before burning. Moist content shows at 12%
1 year since split or one year since cut? Did you check the moisture on a piece that was resplit seconds before you checked it? Many hardwoods can take 2, even 3 years to season fully.
Winterpeger
Member
If I remember correctly the 2450 had a “deflector” between the top of the stove and the baffle. There were a few threads about the 2450s being a pain to operate. I would make sure the deflector is installed correctly.
The moisture content was measured in wood that is being burned now. my wood is measuring 1-7% avg about 4%
How are you testing your wood? Those numbers simply are not possible in most parts of the country without the use of a kiln
Just a quick picture of the stack after 4-5 weeks, running almost non-stop, except for cleanout time.
![[Hearth.com] Creosote buildup in a f2450](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/321/321192-f1efa061cd4ac0c12fc22b82bb2ca67b.jpg?hash=jVZ-LYsHYh "[Hearth.com] Creosote buildup in a f2450")
Looks like a whole lot of burnt creosote to me. What procedure are you using to test your wood?
I bought a like new F2400 several years ago from a gentleman that just couldn’t get the stove to draw properly. I took one look inside the firebox and immediately knew what the issue was from the coating of creosote on everything. Handed him the cash, cleaned the inside of the firebox up and fed it well seasoned wood. Have been burning it for three years now with zero issues. It’s a great stove. I highly suspect you have a wood problem as well. That’s a crazy amount of build up in that pipe.
There is no doubt that the meter has been used incorrectly. The firewood piece must be resplit in half, then measured in the middle of the freshly exposed face of the wood.
Had a f2400 with a rigid liner. Put a few blocks of anything on a decent coal bed and it worked wonderful. Got a f2450 and had the same problem as you. The 2400 had no vertical deflector. The 2450 does. I took it out and it works like the 2400.
Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
I have the 2450 and it runs hot and very clean on dry wood. I have a very short chimney ( double wall inside room, class A chimney outside). My guess is your wood is sub/par, your turning air down too fast, and your chimney set up is not helping- or a combination of all the above.
Nope. Double wall inside as well. The vertical deflector was the cause in my case. Wood is premium grade. See page 31 in the 2450 manual. The vertical deflector blocks the air passage to the flu. Serves like the flu damper but is not adjustable. Since removing it the unit works like the former 2400 model. Easy to lite and excellent draft control.
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Had a 2400. Worked perfect. Excellent draft and control. The fire box was replaced with the 2450 due to warranty. The 2400 fire box cracked at the door opening that went outside the door seal seating surface. Making it non wett certifiable here in ontario canada. Nothing else was changed.
The 2450 was hard to lite, sluggish burning and clogged easily. Basically the same problem you’re having. The difference between the two stoves is the 2450 has a non adjustable vertical deflector. It slows draft in an effort to maximize efficiency. However, this feature is not suited for all installs. See page 31 of the 2450 manual.
I removed the vertical deflector and the stove is working wonderful.
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I would try cutting down the deflector rather than complete removal. Cutting off 1/2" off the bottom could make a nice difference while still serving to slow down the flue gases so that they burn more completely in the hot firebox.
Thank you. It was pondered. Rather have full control of draft. Works better for my system.
I'm confused between you and the op, it's often better to start your own thread, have you said what your chimney height is?
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