I have a 6100 upgraded to a 6220 ver. 6, the red light above the draft is blinking. Had a err 11 cleaned the vacuum line out, started back up ran about 8 hrs and quit with another err 11. Did not get home in time to call ussc any help would be great.
ussc 6220 draft light blinking
- Thread starter snowplow11
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
This 'take the stove outside and blow it out with compressed air' stuff might be doable if the stove was portable (and most aren't) and it was easy to do (like was close to a door). I suspect probably 90 percent of installs aren't designed with portability in mind or easy access to the outside... It's just not practical to do.
I'm not taking mine outside and I suspect most people aren't either.
Just as easy to to the leaf blower suck out.
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
Outside is not easy for the 6100....it's not a stove but a 400 pound furnace.......
Snowplow---just a few commonly missed things on that model, you may already know these.....
Ash cleanout slides on either side of the burn pot.....make sure they are cleaned well....some use a bottle brush up behind it and once slide down may sure the bolts are tightened down
The ash doors on the front...over time may leak some (similar to the way a door gasket will)
the door gasket as talked about above, as well as the glass gasket.
Have you ever adjusted the feed or air (draft) rates?
What settingings do you run the unit on?
does the mode light blink/ stay on solid/ or not light at all?
Did you ever adjust any of the "codes"?
Do you have a copy of the factory test (if not I can e-mail it) I'm interested in the thermistor readings. As it could give a bad temp reading.
Is it connected to duct work? cold air return?
Have you ever taken off the exhaust fan and cleaned it? or checked/replaced the gasket on it or the weldment gasket it attaches to?
(if the gasket in these two spots are bad you can replace or run a bead of RTV to get a good seal) sometimes the flange will bend from being taken on/off during cleaning.
If you'd like to talk any of these points over or have questions please PM me and I'll get with you for a voice call if you'd like.
Snowplow---just a few commonly missed things on that model, you may already know these.....
Ash cleanout slides on either side of the burn pot.....make sure they are cleaned well....some use a bottle brush up behind it and once slide down may sure the bolts are tightened down
The ash doors on the front...over time may leak some (similar to the way a door gasket will)
the door gasket as talked about above, as well as the glass gasket.
Have you ever adjusted the feed or air (draft) rates?
What settingings do you run the unit on?
does the mode light blink/ stay on solid/ or not light at all?
Did you ever adjust any of the "codes"?
Do you have a copy of the factory test (if not I can e-mail it) I'm interested in the thermistor readings. As it could give a bad temp reading.
Is it connected to duct work? cold air return?
Have you ever taken off the exhaust fan and cleaned it? or checked/replaced the gasket on it or the weldment gasket it attaches to?
(if the gasket in these two spots are bad you can replace or run a bead of RTV to get a good seal) sometimes the flange will bend from being taken on/off during cleaning.
If you'd like to talk any of these points over or have questions please PM me and I'll get with you for a voice call if you'd like.
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
One last spot. The vaccum line that runs from the pressure switch to a nipple on the firebox.....Check the hose for cracks, clogs or damage. Also the nipple (both inside the firebox and outside) check that the airway there is clear as soot/ash can get sucked into it.
EDIT: 6100 I know you'd had that at least 7-8 years I cut my teeth on that model when I first came to USSC
EDIT: 6100 I know you'd had that at least 7-8 years I cut my teeth on that model when I first came to USSC
Last edited:
It seems to have come out of it and not blinking now. I cleaned out the stove pipe. I did adjust the draft was 200 went to 250, but when I open the intake air the draft light started to blink . The fan was cleaned at the start of the season. I have never adjusted the codes run it auto with a thermostat. Feed rate 2.00 low and 8.00 high. I do not have a factor test. Duct work only on the hot side, it is down in the basement. Replaced vacuum hose last year along the the heat exchanger sensor. Thanks for the help.
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
Well if it seem ok now that's good. Most likely it was a cleaning issue. A few things to point out:
1) I have the test and will try to upload it for you. (it says 6500/8500 but it's the same test as the 6100/6220 the only difference is #11 will not show an actual plenum temp on the 6100/6220. on your unit it will show 752 )
2) The pressure switch is a -.05 W.C. switch +/- .03 W.C. That means if the W.C. in the firebox varies past .03 of the .05 setting it will detect a vacuum problem. could be over .08 or under .02
3) With thermostat you could set the low end feed to .05 lbs/hr this way when the T-stat is not calling for heat the furnace will lower itself to .05 lbs and may save you some pellets. Just a thought. (if the feed rate is adjust the air will also need to be adjusted.)
4) Having a return air hooked up will help you circulate the heat better (saving fuel), help you room blower last longer by not working as hard and could also allow for a better draft. The reason behind better draft is . both the room fans (twin 500 CFM fans) are competing for air with the draft fan (one 120 CFM) in the basement (assuming that's where it is. (If it is upstairs then return air is not as important)
All in all seems like it's been producing heat just fine, but sometimes with some minor tweeks you can save a good amount of pellets just a thought. The 2nd school of thought is if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Just my thoughts
1) I have the test and will try to upload it for you. (it says 6500/8500 but it's the same test as the 6100/6220 the only difference is #11 will not show an actual plenum temp on the 6100/6220. on your unit it will show 752 )
2) The pressure switch is a -.05 W.C. switch +/- .03 W.C. That means if the W.C. in the firebox varies past .03 of the .05 setting it will detect a vacuum problem. could be over .08 or under .02
3) With thermostat you could set the low end feed to .05 lbs/hr this way when the T-stat is not calling for heat the furnace will lower itself to .05 lbs and may save you some pellets. Just a thought. (if the feed rate is adjust the air will also need to be adjusted.)
4) Having a return air hooked up will help you circulate the heat better (saving fuel), help you room blower last longer by not working as hard and could also allow for a better draft. The reason behind better draft is . both the room fans (twin 500 CFM fans) are competing for air with the draft fan (one 120 CFM) in the basement (assuming that's where it is. (If it is upstairs then return air is not as important)
All in all seems like it's been producing heat just fine, but sometimes with some minor tweeks you can save a good amount of pellets just a thought. The 2nd school of thought is if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Just my thoughts
- Status
Similar threads
