STIHL 026 BOGGING/STALLING....

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Will fuel that is richer than recomended ratio cause bogging and stalling when idling? I was told to mix 40:1 for the MakLmar/Dolkita.....and not remembering i refilled the Stihl 026 with same mixture(only one gas can at the moment)....i hope it is something this simple causing the problem....thanks all Hearthians
 
Going heavy on the oil in the mix actually leans out your saw, due to less gas per unit volume of mix. However, this is almost never the cause of problems, and most just mix to the recommendation of the oil they're using, not according the user manual for the OPE.

They haven't made the 026 in some years, so I'd assume it has pre-ethanol fuel lines. The ethanol in modern fuel can cause breakdown in these fuel lines, and a small crack in the pickup line or even the line from tank to carb can cause bogging when hitting the throttle.
 
yeah, it's weird how it started right after i filled it with the different mix, but i don't think the saw has ever been tuned up....need a vac/pressure tester is what i need.....some ethanol resistant fuel lines would be nice too ( if such a thing really exists)
 
....yeah,when i heard of it, i thought it sounded to good to be true.....i will check it out....i've never taken the 026 apart yet, except for the bar and air filter to spray/clean it out...
 
Last edited:
Going heavy on the oil in the mix actually leans out your saw, due to less gas per unit volume of mix. However, this is almost never the cause of problems, and most just mix to the recommendation of the oil they're using, not according the user manual for the OPE.

They haven't made the 026 in some years, so I'd assume it has pre-ethanol fuel lines. The ethanol in modern fuel can cause breakdown in these fuel lines, and a small crack in the pickup line or even the line from tank to carb can cause bogging when hitting the throttle.
.....ahhhh, ahem, yeah i knew that( i didn't) i just assumed because oil is thicker,adding more made a mix richer....good to know...more oil=less gas,less gas=lean
 
.....ahhhh, ahem, yeah i knew that( i didn't) i just assumed because oil is thicker,adding more made a mix richer....good to know...more oil=less gas,less gas=lean
Heh... I didn't know that either, when started here, and I still have trouble accepting it. Counter-intuitive, it is...
 
Will fuel that is richer than recomended ratio cause bogging and stalling when idling? I was told to mix 40:1 for the MakLmar/Dolkita.....and not remembering i refilled the Stihl 026 with same mixture(only one gas can at the moment)....i hope it is something this simple causing the problem....thanks all Hearthians
I have the same saw and have the same problem but it's only ocassionally. Bogging down is usually after a fill up. Sometimes it will just quit and then not start again like it floods itself out. Somewhat temperamental, but still let's the chips fly.
 
I have the same saw and have the same problem but it's only ocassionally. Bogging down is usually after a fill up. Sometimes it will just quit and then not start again like it floods itself out. Somewhat temperamental, but still let's the chips fly.
.....well when you think about it and apply that ''logic'' stuff it makes sense......and yes,i was surprised at how well the lil 026 cuts for it's size....must need a tune up though, i know it sat in a garage for a long time before being rescued/purchased....and i've only cleaned it with compressed air so far...and have cut a lot of red and white oak and hard maple with it
 
yeah, it's weird how it started right after i filled it with the different mix, but i don't think the saw has ever been tuned up....need a vac/pressure tester is what i need.....some ethanol resistant fuel lines would be nice too ( if such a thing really exists)

You shouldn't need the vac/pressure tester for a tuneup. That's for a much bigger investigation.

If its been a while for your saw, could be a difference in weather. I have to adjust my saw when cutting in the summer vs. The winter.

I would suggest a new fuel filter, new impulse line, new fuel line, new sparkplug, and an air filter cleaning. Possibly a carb kit as well, if its been a while.

For the air filter, split it in half and wash in warm soapy water. If its flocked, don't use compressed air or you might blow it right off. Pulse line is hard to get to, hemostats help immensely. Fuel line can be from the dealer, or you can use some tygon line if you thread it through the old fuel line grommet. That's tricky to do, but it can be done.

Might be overkill, but its also good to know all that stuff is up to snuff!
 
You shouldn't need the vac/pressure tester for a tuneup. That's for a much bigger investigation.

If its been a while for your saw, could be a difference in weather. I have to adjust my saw when cutting in the summer vs. The winter.

I would suggest a new fuel filter, new impulse line, new fuel line, new sparkplug, and an air filter cleaning. Possibly a carb kit as well, if its been a while.

For the air filter, split it in half and wash in warm soapy water. If its flocked, don't use compressed air or you might blow it right off. Pulse line is hard to get to, hemostats help immensely. Fuel line can be from the dealer, or you can use some tygon line if you thread it through the old fuel line grommet. That's tricky to do, but it can be done.

Might be overkill, but its also good to know all that stuff is up to snuff!
......i thought the vac. test would help narrow down where the problem is, and if it is a line (or lines)that need replacing...i have not taken the air filter apart to clean it, but will def. try that....and i could try cleaning the fuel filter....i know when the lines on the little poulan 2150 went, i could distinctly smell the fuel fumes.....i have not noticed that with the stihl 026....if it could ONLY be the filters needing cleaning i would be what could only be desribed as happy and relieved
 
Depending on which line, a crack in the line won't necessarily cause a fuel smell. Sometimes it introduces air into the system.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
Depending on which line, a crack in the line won't necessarily cause a fuel smell. Sometimes it introduces air into the system.
....uhhh,ahem, i knew that (i didn't)....i think someone should put the ''new'' back under my name next to member....
 
how about changing that spark arrestor ?
 
how about changing that spark arrestor ?
......if it does have one, i'm betting it has never been changed, or cleaned....i am looking online right now to get a diagram so i have some part #'s for all of the things y'all been suggesting...then the search really begins
 
....uhhh,ahem, i knew that (i didn't)....i think someone should put the ''new'' back under my name next to member....
A common cause of this is a crack in the pickup line, contained inside the tank. Won't cause a leaking fuel smell, but will suck air.
 
A common cause of this is a crack in the pickup line, contained inside the tank. Won't cause a leaking fuel smell, but will suck air.

A better explanation than my previous ramblings.
 
A better explanation than my previous ramblings.
....yeah, when i read your post, i was imediatley confused and thought to myself, ''wow, this guy sure can ramble''.....no sir, they both good replies....thanks
 
......i thought the vac. test would help narrow down where the problem is, and if it is a line (or lines)that need replacing...i have not taken the air filter apart to clean it, but will def. try that....and i could try cleaning the fuel filter....i know when the lines on the little poulan 2150 went, i could distinctly smell the fuel fumes.....i have not noticed that with the stihl 026....if it could ONLY be the filters needing cleaning i would be what could only be desribed as happy and relieved

Vac testing really helps with determining if you have a bad crank seal. It will help you figure out if you have a bad impulse line and/or intake boot. If you dont have the stuff to do it, its just cheaper to buy lines for single saw. (Plus if they are bad, you gotta buy em anyway....) Clean the air filter with just soap and water, let air dry. DONT try to clean the fuel filter, just buy a new one.

If you havent been into your carb before, you might have to put a kit into it, but they can be had for less than $10, and its not too hard to do, honest.

how about changing that spark arrestor ?

The spark arrestor will be in your muffler outlet, if you still have one. Should be held in with a single screw, and you can pull it out and burn it off with a propane torch. One of the things that you dont need to replace :)
 
Last edited:
Vac testing really helps with determining if you have a bad crank seal. It will help you figure out if you have a bad impulse line and/or intake boot. If you dont have the stuff to do it, its just cheaper to buy lines for single saw. (Plus if they are bad, you gotta buy em anyway....) Clean the air filter with just soap and water, let air dry. DONT try to clean the fuel filter, just buy a new one.

If you havent been into your carb before, you might have to put a kit into it, but they can be had for less than $10, and its not too hard to do, honest.



The spark arrestor will be in your muffler outlet, if you still have one. Should be held in with a single screw, and you can pull it out and burn it off with a propane torch. One of the things that you dont need to replace :)
....merci beaucoup....grazie mille'.....arigato....spasibo......nitsitskimatsip......(thank you)
 
Well how did things turn out? Any success?
 
I ended up removing and opening up my carb and cleaning it out good. Put back together and much more responsive!
 
Well how did things turn out? Any success?
.....what i did was to use up all the fuel in the tank and then put in a different mix with less oil and better gas, and there is quite a noticable difference, it runs as good as it did when i first got it, so there must have been way to much oil in the last batch of fuel.....\_O_/ ( throws arms in air )
 
I ended up removing and opening up my carb and cleaning it out good. Put back together and much more responsive!
.....Hey Freeburn (very cool name btw) did you take the carb apart to clean it? or is it possible to clean it without having to disassemble everything? and what did you use to clean it? thanks
 
Status
Not open for further replies.