Piazzetta Sabrina questions

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OK I have just started on my 3 ton since I installed the stove. Q1, What is the normal feed rate for these stoves? I have been running it on level 3 mostly and been playing around with level 4 and now level two. When I look at other stoves their flames are short and intense, where my flame is usually tall and less intense. Not sure if that is normal for this stove or not. Q2 I'm pulling the baffles out behind the burn pot and cleaning in behind as well as the pot itself and flue pipe, are there any other areas I should be cleaning? There is a plate below the ash pan and I don't know what's under it. I've burned a ton of ambiance (good heat with lots of clinkers after one day heavy deposits), a ton of La Crete (good heat with less deposits and almost no clinkers but a fair bit of ash). As well as 10 bags of Satisfaction (not really impressed heat wise and left lots of ash and clinkers).
 
OK I have just started on my 3 ton since I installed the stove. Q1, What is the normal feed rate for these stoves? I have been running it on level 3 mostly and been playing around with level 4 and now level two. When I look at other stoves their flames are short and intense, where my flame is usually tall and less intense. Not sure if that is normal for this stove or not. Q2 I'm pulling the baffles out behind the burn pot and cleaning in behind as well as the pot itself and flue pipe, are there any other areas I should be cleaning? There is a plate below the ash pan and I don't know what's under it. I've burned a ton of ambiance (good heat with lots of clinkers after one day heavy deposits), a ton of La Crete (good heat with less deposits and almost no clinkers but a fair bit of ash). As well as 10 bags of Satisfaction (not really impressed heat wise and left lots of ash and clinkers).
Q1) Normal? There's no normal, you set it on the feed rate you think works best. A higher setting will raise your room temp faster. A setting too low may never reach your set temp.

I tend to set the feed rate setting as low as possible. For example, tonite it's 20 degrees out, and overnight I set my thermostat back to 61 degrees. For a 40 degree differential I know feed rate 2 can handle that, slowly, but surely. However, I know tomorrow it's going to start to get colder, and I'll have to up the feed rate to 3 and probably 4, and maybe even 5 when it gets below zero.

The flame can get very tall, feed rate 3 can easily be ⅔ to ¾ of the way up the fire box. feed rate 4 and 5 can go from ¾ to the top. If you find the flame not as intense as you'd like, try upping your air rate.

Q2) Daily, I scrape the burn pot, and wipe the glass, and since I have a PowerSmith ash vac, it only take a few secs to suck up what's in the tiny ash pan.

Weekly, pull the backplate and clean the gray/tan ash.

Monthly, clean the vent.

Yearly, clean the combustion fan box, which is covered by the plate below the ash pan.

I've been burning Crabbé from NB and LG from Quebec. LG have been good and clean, Crabbé is close, but I prefer the LG.

If you search this forum, you'll find a few threads on the Piazzetta Sabrina, and some of the settings that I and others are using. If you go into the Parameter Settings, by using Access Code E9, you can change all of your settings.

What's your firmware? You can see it by holding Button 1 and 6 at the same time for 5 secs.

I've adjusted my feed rate and air settings to the following:
Feed rate/ air setting
3.3secs/2000rpm
4.5secs/2100
5.7secs/2300
6.9secs/2500
8.1secs/2650

Different pellets may require some adjustment to the air. I may be blowing a little more air than most, but I find that I don't get buildup in the fire pot, which leads to a lazy flame. I can easily go 48 hrs or more without scraping the fire pot, but usually I follow the manual.
 
Thanks for all the info chken...when you say monthly clean vent I assume you mean exhaust vent (Chimney)? Hard to get firmware down (goes fast) but I got sp40-scmu1-1-15 if that makes sense. I think I would like to try more combustion air at a lower feed to see if efficiency improves.
 
Thanks for all the info chken...when you say monthly clean vent I assume you mean exhaust vent (Chimney)? Hard to get firmware down (goes fast) but I got sp40-scmu1-1-15 if that makes sense. I think I would like to try more combustion air at a lower feed to see if efficiency improves.
Yes, monthly, clean outside vent. Basically, you follow the manual, and then adjust based upon your experience.

For example, if I burn less than 2 bags in a day, I don't scrape the pot and wipe the glass, I wait for a 2nd day. Because my current burn settings are very good, I can easily go 48 hrs or more without shutting down and scraping/cleaning.

I think the manual itself states that you do the first outside vent cleaning after a month, about a ton, and then adjust based upon your experience. If your vent is 4" in diameter, you probably can clean less often, seeing as the pipe is almost 80% larger.

Your firmware is the same as mine: SP40 scmv 1.1.115. Interestingly others have different firmware.

I like to check my exhaust temp from time to time. You can access it by holding button 6 down for about 3 secs, and then click button 5 twice, which will take you to Stove Status. Click button 3, and it'll scroll the feed rate, the air fan rpm, and the stove exhaust temp. On feed rate 2, I typically get between 205 and 210 degrees, when it's on feed rates 4 and 5 I typically get 240 to 250 degrees. When the exhaust temps start to drop, it indicates to me that the stove can use an exhaust vent cleaning. Of course, different pellets will give you different results, so you have to determine your own baseline.
 
Installed a Sabrina as well ,noticed the flame up end down more noticeable at the lower settings maybe just the way the auger dumps the pellets I guess . At factory settings level 3 flame reaches top flame deflector by reading other posts seems a bit high ,all draft readings at the test port seem on line with the programming manual .Selkirk PL vent pipe up 6' and out 24"

Firm Load SP40 SC MV 1.1

Well ready for more testing (and tasting) hope the picture loads

Piazzetta Sabrina Bordeaux with Amarone overtones

Sabrina.jpg
 
Installed a Sabrina as well ,noticed the flame up end down more noticeable at the lower settings maybe just the way the auger dumps the pellets I guess . At factory settings level 3 flame reaches top flame deflector by reading other posts seems a bit high ,all draft readings at the test port seem on line with the programming manual .Selkirk PL vent pipe up 6' and out 24"

Firm Load SP40 SC MV 1.1

Well ready for more testing (and tasting) hope the picture loads

Piazzetta Sabrina Bordeaux with Amarone overtones

View attachment 129512
I think it all depends upon the pellet. My FSUs on feed rate 3 can send a flame all the way up to the top baffle. Others, not so high.

Are your pellets supporting your wine stash?
 
Well same here at level 1 at times hits the top then down to burning pot levels not very even by no means . I will try tonight to lower the drop rate to 3 and leave the smoke fan alone .
As for the pellets supporting the wine stash ,we at gusto's are committed to a long and extensive testing program as you can see we are prepared for the task

Thanks Chken
I'll try dropping the rate by 10%
Wine.jpg Wine2.jpg
 
Haha, that's awesome!
 
OK I have just started on my 3 ton since I installed the stove. Q1, What is the normal feed rate for these stoves? I have been running it on level 3 mostly and been playing around with level 4 and now level two. When I look at other stoves their flames are short and intense, where my flame is usually tall and less intense. Not sure if that is normal for this stove or not. Q2 I'm pulling the baffles out behind the burn pot and cleaning in behind as well as the pot itself and flue pipe, are there any other areas I should be cleaning? There is a plate below the ash pan and I don't know what's under it. I've burned a ton of ambiance (good heat with lots of clinkers after one day heavy deposits), a ton of La Crete (good heat with less deposits and almost no clinkers but a fair bit of ash). As well as 10 bags of Satisfaction (not really impressed heat wise and left lots of ash and clinkers).
Nice avatar
 
Hi All,

I got the Sabrina before winter and had issues from the beginnings where my dealer can't seem to resolve or lack of knowledge. I also sent messages to Piazzetta and got no response.

1. When setting the temperature example 23 degrees Celsius, the machine surpasses the temp like 29 degrees and continues to climb, should it not remain close to set temp? This is resulting in using more fuel which is not efficient. This also makes it very hard to control a comfortable environment. Is there a problem with the machine? Dealer is telling me it is a water thermostat so it can't be controlled. They suggested to use the energy saving mode but my concern is the grate needs to be clean if not I had an issue where it kept feeding pellets and over filled the pot and never ignited.

2. Cleaning Grate, should this not clear all traces of pellets for the next start up if using a weekly program?

3. The clean out tee pipe does not have enough clearance for me to take off the cap. I need to lean the machine forward which raises the pipe clearance off the floor. This is because they installed it on the floor protector losing clearance. This will become very difficult to perform maintenance clean-ups which they suggest removing the pipe from the machine, defeats the purpose of the clean out tee which is tedious. They blame the design of the machine.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Johnny
 
Hi All,

I got the Sabrina before winter and had issues from the beginnings where my dealer can't seem to resolve or lack of knowledge. I also sent messages to Piazzetta and got no response.

1. When setting the temperature example 23 degrees Celsius, the machine surpasses the temp like 29 degrees and continues to climb, should it not remain close to set temp? This is resulting in using more fuel which is not efficient. This also makes it very hard to control a comfortable environment. Is there a problem with the machine? Dealer is telling me it is a water thermostat so it can't be controlled. They suggested to use the energy saving mode but my concern is the grate needs to be clean if not I had an issue where it kept feeding pellets and over filled the pot and never ignited.

2. Cleaning Grate, should this not clear all traces of pellets for the next start up if using a weekly program?

3. The clean out tee pipe does not have enough clearance for me to take off the cap. I need to lean the machine forward which raises the pipe clearance off the floor. This is because they installed it on the floor protector losing clearance. This will become very difficult to perform maintenance clean-ups which they suggest removing the pipe from the machine, defeats the purpose of the clean out tee which is tedious. They blame the design of the machine.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Johnny
Johnny, you should search a few of these recent Piazzetta threads, because there is a dealer near you who can help. I think his name is Pierre, and he's about an hour north of Montreal, and he seems really eager to help.

As for your questions, here are my thoughts:
1) The stove should never exceed the temp setting by more than a degree, in practice. Clearly, this is not normal behavior.

When you say 29 degrees, you mean on the stove's thermostat or the room thermostat? Because there is a possibility for the stove's thermostat to think it's only 23 degrees when the room thermostat shows 29 degrees. You need to put the stove's thermostat wire in a place where it reads very closely to what your room thermostat reads. If it's too close to the wall, it could be reading very cold drafts, which would allow the stove to keep running as it thinks the room is colder than it is.

Not sure what your dealer means by a "water thermostat", unless he's referring to your room thermostat.

In Energy Saving mode, when the stove shuts down, it basically goes into grate cleaning mode for 10 minutes, blowing hot air thru the grate in order to burn off any embers. Thus, when it restarts, it should not have an ignition failure. If you are having ignition failures, and weren't getting error messages, then something is not working right. An ignition failure should trigger a code and some beeping.

Make sure your stove and its vent are clean, and that you burn good pellets and see if you still have this ignition problem.

2) The Cleaning Grate process is not that precise. It will just turn the combustion fan on its highest setting, for about 45 seconds, which helps to burn off any excess pellets. Pierre recommends shortening the interval between grate cleanings and increasing the time of the cleaning. I have done similarly. Those are settings your dealer can adjust, or you can do it yourself easily by going into the parameter settings using code E9. There's a list of parameters you can change in some of these Piazzetta threads.

3) Are you saying you can't remove the cap on the bottom of the T? There should be a few inches from the floor protector. A picture of the situation would help.
 
Hi Chken,

Thanks for the quick response,

1. Yes the stove thermostat goes up, my electrical thermostats in the rooms go even beyond 35 to 39 degrees which is unbearable and need to shutdown the stove. So yes the stove thermometer does not remain within the 1 degree. I did notice if I unplug the power chord on the unit when cleaning it, the next startup it seems to stay more stable but after the next consecutive startups it goes out of whack. I also noticed the flame is always high and pellets are always feeding which uses up a bag within 8 hours, I use P5 setting according to dealer they claim it will run more stable but I also tried it on P1. I also find it leaves a lot of ash and I am using Lauzon hard wood which should be around .03 ash.

They claim the Piazzetta thermostat is like a water thermostat which is not as precise as the electronic base board Aube thermostats.

After 24 hours the pot becomes pretty full and causes issues for next startup. I need to scrape everything out and it is pretty black and packed.

3. Yes. Picture provided. They tell me to use a Shopvac from the outside. Also I had a lot of ash come out of the tee after about 15 bags. The black dust was everywhere.
Piazzetta-20131205-00144.jpg Piazzetta-20131109-00135.jpg
 
Hi Chken,

Thanks for the quick response,

1. Yes the stove thermostat goes up, my electrical thermostats in the rooms go even beyond 35 to 39 degrees which is unbearable and need to shutdown the stove. So yes the stove thermometer does not remain within the 1 degree. I did notice if I unplug the power chord on the unit when cleaning it, the next startup it seems to stay more stable but after the next consecutive startups it goes out of whack. I also noticed the flame is always high and pellets are always feeding which uses up a bag within 8 hours, I use P5 setting according to dealer they claim it will run more stable but I also tried it on P1. I also find it leaves a lot of ash and I am using Lauzon hard wood which should be around .03 ash.

They claim the Piazzetta thermostat is like a water thermostat which is not as precise as the electronic base board Aube thermostats.

After 24 hours the pot becomes pretty full and causes issues for next startup. I need to scrape everything out and it is pretty black and packed.

3. Yes. Picture provided. They tell me to use a Shopvac from the outside. Also I had a lot of ash come out of the tee after about 15 bags. The black dust was everywhere.
View attachment 132143 View attachment 132142

1) I'd try two things, first, I'd try moving the stove thermostat wire around so that it reads the room temp correctly. If it's reading too low, I'd more the wire so that it's right next to the metal jacket of the stove. The stove jacket should be warmer than the back wall, where the wire normally is getting a cold draft.

If that doesn't work, then an external thermostat is required. Other threads here have recommended different external thermostats to use with a pellet stove.

Anyhow, fixing the temperature should be an easy fix, with moving the existing thermo probe around, or using an external thermostat.

As for power setting, if you run on P5, and it never reaches your set temp, as you describe, it should eat up a 40lb bag in 7 to 8 hrs. Clearly, it's working as described, since your stove never cycles to P1 because it never reaches your set temp. As answered earlier, you need to move the temp wire. I'd tuck the wire into the decorative slices in the metal on the right side of the stove, and have the probe just an inch from the metal. That should keep it warmer.

Will P5 run more "stable"? No. Not sure what they mean. I typically run my stove on its lowest setting that allows it to heat the house in a reasonable amount of time. If the temp is about 0 celsius, I'll use P3, and even P2, if I'm using a particularly hot pellet. If it's colder, P4, and if it's really cold, then P5.

If a setting is leaving more ash, then the air for that setting needs adjusting. An efficient stove can operate just fine on all its settings, but your dealer should use a manometer to adjust the air correctly. You can do it to, but when the dealer installed it, he should have used a manometer to adjust it.

My Piazzetta thermostat works just fine, it seems to be electronic, so I'm not sure what that means.

If your pot is becoming full of ash, your air needs adjusting. I base my scraping on bags of pellets burned. I can easily go 3 to 5 bags between scrapings, and I don't expect anything in the pot. Maybe a thin biscuit with holes, but usually just accumulation up around the rim. Of course, it's recommended to scrape once a day, but once you get to know your stove, and IF your stove is adjusted for optimal efficiency, you can easily go 3 to 5 bags between scrapes. Right now, with the temps pretty moderate around Maine, I may burn 5 bags in a week, and so I haven't scraped in a week.

3) The duravent T seems just a little lower than my Excel T on my stove. I know there's not a lot of room under my T, but I can get my fingers under there and undo the screw and drop the plug. Cleaning the T by opening it is crucial because a lot of ash accumulates right at the 90degree bend. No amount of sucking with a shopvac will clean it.

I'd consider one of two things: one, think about switching to a vent pipe with a T that gives you more room, like the Excel. Or two, I'd raise the stove up a couple inches, something to give you the room to open the bottom of the T, so you can remove the ash cake that accumulates.

Lastly, I'd do the leaf blower trick to suck out any ash. Do a search on leaf blower trick on this forum or youtube and you'll see what I mean.

As for the failed ignition, I've never had one so I can't say whether yours is typical or not. It could be a side effect of your inefficient combustion leading to a lot of ash accumulation in the pot, so that the fresh pellets don't ignite. If that's the case, then you need to get your dealer to optimize combustion with a manometer. You can do it too, but I think your dealer should be given the chance to do his job, first.
 
Hi Grizz
Does the temperature display on the stove climb to high readings as well??
If the stove does not revert to P1 or turn off in econo mode
I would try a factory reset first (check all the parameters and record them before reset)
Like Chken said not too cold now I run the stove on econo mode 72F +2 - 2 on P3 and set the pellet drop rate on P1 to 2.7 (With this P1 setting still get 225-230 F fumes temp) so the cycles are long .
Same problem with the cleaning T
One ignition failure so far

Regards

PS
You should be able to grab the temp sensor between your fingers and make the stove cycle and watch the temp climb on the stove display
I have the covers off the stove most of the time so if you need any info or readings go for it

Later
 
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the info. I am willing to try anything but running out of time due to warmer weather. I want to settle this with my dealer that has been giving me the run around for the last 4 months.

Gusto, yes the temperature on the stove keeps climbing and does not regulate itself to stop at set temp. I think you may be right where the stove does not cycle itself and stays on P5, flame is always high, pellets keep feeding and temp rises uncontrollably. I am sure when it was first installed I used to see the flame go down and also the fan slows down and was able to sit there and watch TV. Now, I have to turn it off before it gets to hot. My thermostat wire is sitting on the floor where they left it. When it was installed it was two young guys and they never did any setup/configuration or explanation; they just added the pellets and turned it on and off they went. Dealer also claims they don't know it to well since it is relatively new product and is currently experimenting with the one they have setup at the store. They claim their rep is from Pacific Energy in Vancouver but did not get much assistance. Is there a number to call for Piazzetta Canada? I filled out their forms on the web site but still no response.

***I think a reset may do the trick but just wondering since they never configured anything I have nothing to lose or settings to write down? It is factory default already!

They installed a 4" Duravent pipe and considering maybe to put a higher base but not esthetically nice in order to access the T Plug; kind of like it on the floor though. I am able to loosen the T Plug but can't remove it since not enough of a clearance to slide it out. I need to lodge myself between wall and machine to tilt it so the pipe goes up and at the same time try to remove the plug. It is very difficult task by yourself to put it back and align it without crushing the plug. My wife says she would never be able to do this herself, it should be easy and says the dealer should be responsible for this install.

I never tried econo mode because afraid that the pot is full and won't re-ignite and will continue to feed the pellets. I read in the manual that it should detect no ignition or heat and should abort. I am afraid of using any programs for that matter. I clean it out completely before each new startup. I manually turned on and off the machine all winter. So much for this sophisticated advanced technology.
 
3. The clean out tee pipe does not have enough clearance for me to take off the cap. I need to lean the machine forward which raises the pipe clearance off the floor. This is because they installed it on the floor protector losing clearance. This will become very difficult to perform maintenance clean-ups which they suggest removing the pipe from the machine, defeats the purpose of the clean out tee which is tedious. They blame the design of the machine.
The dealer installed it like that? If so how could he blame the design of the stove? He should have known that could be an issue and planned for that, he's the dealer he never encountered that before?. The floor protector didn't lower the clearance of the tee, if it was installed onto the floor directly the clearance would be the same. It just doesn't seem like his "answers" jive all around. I'm not one to knock anyone generally, IMHO I would contact the gentleman chken suggusted for another opinion from a local dealer. Seems to be you are getting better advice/answers in here. Sorry to anyone if this post seems negitive.
 
My thermostat wire is sitting on the floor where they left it. ...

They installed a 4" Duravent pipe

Well, even if the dealer screwed up, which he did, you should at least try moving the thermostat wire. Leaving it on the floor means it is measuring the temp of the room at floor level, which is colder than off the floor, unless you have in-floor radiant heat. As I noted earlier, try tucking the wire in the slots cut into the side panels. That should raise the temp of the stove thermostat so that the differential between stove and room thermostat is minimal. Leaving it on the floor was a mistake.

A 4" vent is going to bring the bottom of the T closer to the floor. I thought it looked like a 4", but wasn't sure. I would ask the dealer to replace with a 3", which should give you a little more room underneath to pull the plug out. Then use an adapter above the T to go from 3" to 4".
 
Hi Chken,

I understand your point which I will try your suggestion but even at that, the thermostat on the stove reads the actual temp as 29 degrees but I set it to 21 with the wire probe being on the floor. The machine or thermostat is not doing the job to cycle or maintain the temp. I will try to do the factory reset. Are the instructions in the manual to do this?

As far as the pipe size, I had argued with the vendor that the manual recommends 3" pipe but they insisted to use the 4" and is easier to maintain/clean. I also have an issue where my pipe on the outside of the house goes out a foot and turns towards the ground but my insurance companies insist the pipe to go up another 4 feet outside to prevent negative back draft to prevent the smoke from backing up back into the house and causing interior damages and possible claim. The unit is installed in the basement so the pipe from the back of the machine already goes up and straight outside which the dealer says is only required. I also notice when we get a lot of snow, I run the risk of the pipe being blocked since it is only a foot off the ground and we get more snow than that.

Thanks again.
 
I understand your point which I will try your suggestion but even at that, the thermostat on the stove reads the actual temp as 29 degrees but I set it to 21 with the wire probe being on the floor. The machine or thermostat is not doing the job to cycle or maintain the temp. I will try to do the factory reset. Are the instructions in the manual to do this?

Okay, now I'm confused, I thought the room thermostat was showing 29 and the stove was showing 21, but you're saying the stove is saying 29, while your set point is 21, which means the stove should turn off. If that's not the case, then something is wrong that the dealer needs to see and have addressed.

As for the settings reset, that's what Gusto recommended. You can access your settings thru the programming menu, section 6.4 in your manual. Go to Menu Paramaters>Settings Factory, the access code is E9. You can then scroll thru all of your settings. Write them down, they're 28 of them. If you post them, I can tell you if they are factory, or have been adjusted. In this thread and others, you can see some of the changes, usually to the air, that I and others have used. At the top of this thread, I've posted my settings on air and pellet rate. They are quite a bit higher than what the factory sets, and I have a feeling that your stove needs higher air settings, based upon your comments.

As far as the pipe size, I had argued with the vendor that the manual recommends 3" pipe but they insisted to use the 4" and is easier to maintain/clean. I also have an issue where my pipe on the outside of the house goes out a foot and turns towards the ground but my insurance companies insist the pipe to go up another 4 feet outside to prevent negative back draft to prevent the smoke from backing up back into the house and causing interior damages and possible claim. The unit is installed in the basement so the pipe from the back of the machine already goes up and straight outside which the dealer says is only required. I also notice when we get a lot of snow, I run the risk of the pipe being blocked since it is only a foot off the ground and we get more snow than that.

Thanks again.
Actually, the dealer is right, the 3" recommended pipe is the minimum. A 4" pipe will require less cleaning, since it's 65% larger. Where installations are tricky, making cleaning harder, then a 4" pipe makes sense. However, as I noted above, I would have used a 3" T, to make it easier for you to access the plug at the bottom of the T, and then right above the T put in an adapter going to 4". That'll give you both the easier to access plug, but also the benefits of a 4" pipe.

As for backdrafting, the 4' vertical rise can be either inside or outside. In fact, inside works better, since the pipe is warm, it will naturally draft better. So, your dealer is correct.

Basement installs are trickier for some reason. It sounds like your install looks like Page 15 in the manual. There, the requirement is 1 foot off the ground. Obviously, in snow country you have to be careful not to have the vent blocked. If you can, you may want to add a vertical to get it above your snow level. With a 4" diameter pipe, you should not have any issues with the pipe being too long.

As for snow, I lived in Ste-Agathe-des-Monts as a child and recall getting something like 72" over 3 days in 1971!
 
1) I'd try two things, first, I'd try moving the stove thermostat wire around so that it reads the room temp correctly. If it's reading too low, I'd more the wire so that it's right next to the metal jacket of the stove. The stove jacket should be warmer than the back wall, where the wire normally is getting a cold draft.

If that doesn't work, then an external thermostat is required. Other threads here have recommended different external thermostats to use with a pellet stove.

Anyhow, fixing the temperature should be an easy fix, with moving the existing thermo probe around, or using an external thermostat.

As for power setting, if you run on P5, and it never reaches your set temp, as you describe, it should eat up a 40lb bag in 7 to 8 hrs. Clearly, it's working as described, since your stove never cycles to P1 because it never reaches your set temp. As answered earlier, you need to move the temp wire. I'd tuck the wire into the decorative slices in the metal on the right side of the stove, and have the probe just an inch from the metal. That should keep it warmer.

Will P5 run more "stable"? No. Not sure what they mean. I typically run my stove on its lowest setting that allows it to heat the house in a reasonable amount of time. If the temp is about 0 celsius, I'll use P3, and even P2, if I'm using a particularly hot pellet. If it's colder, P4, and if it's really cold, then P5.

If a setting is leaving more ash, then the air for that setting needs adjusting. An efficient stove can operate just fine on all its settings, but your dealer should use a manometer to adjust the air correctly. You can do it to, but when the dealer installed it, he should have used a manometer to adjust it.

My Piazzetta thermostat works just fine, it seems to be electronic, so I'm not sure what that means.

If your pot is becoming full of ash, your air needs adjusting. I base my scraping on bags of pellets burned. I can easily go 3 to 5 bags between scrapings, and I don't expect anything in the pot. Maybe a thin biscuit with holes, but usually just accumulation up around the rim. Of course, it's recommended to scrape once a day, but once you get to know your stove, and IF your stove is adjusted for optimal efficiency, you can easily go 3 to 5 bags between scrapes. Right now, with the temps pretty moderate around Maine, I may burn 5 bags in a week, and so I haven't scraped in a week.

3) The duravent T seems just a little lower than my Excel T on my stove. I know there's not a lot of room under my T, but I can get my fingers under there and undo the screw and drop the plug. Cleaning the T by opening it is crucial because a lot of ash accumulates right at the 90degree bend. No amount of sucking with a shopvac will clean it.

I'd consider one of two things: one, think about switching to a vent pipe with a T that gives you more room, like the Excel. Or two, I'd raise the stove up a couple inches, something to give you the room to open the bottom of the T, so you can remove the ash cake that accumulates.

Lastly, I'd do the leaf blower trick to suck out any ash. Do a search on leaf blower trick on this forum or youtube and you'll see what I mean.

As for the failed ignition, I've never had one so I can't say whether yours is typical or not. It could be a side effect of your inefficient combustion leading to a lot of ash accumulation in the pot, so that the fresh pellets don't ignite. If that's the case, then you need to get your dealer to optimize combustion with a manometer. You can do it too, but I think your dealer should be given the chance to do his job, first.
Okay, now I'm confused, I thought the room thermostat was showing 29 and the stove was showing 21, but you're saying the stove is saying 29, while your set point is 21, which means the stove should turn off. If that's not the case, then something is wrong that the dealer needs to see and have addressed.

As for the settings reset, that's what Gusto recommended. You can access your settings thru the programming menu, section 6.4 in your manual. Go to Menu Paramaters>Settings Factory, the access code is E9. You can then scroll thru all of your settings. Write them down, they're 28 of them. If you post them, I can tell you if they are factory, or have been adjusted. In this thread and others, you can see some of the changes, usually to the air, that I and others have used. At the top of this thread, I've posted my settings on air and pellet rate. They are quite a bit higher than what the factory sets, and I have a feeling that your stove needs higher air settings, based upon your comments.


Actually, the dealer is right, the 3" recommended pipe is the minimum. A 4" pipe will require less cleaning, since it's 65% larger. Where installations are tricky, making cleaning harder, then a 4" pipe makes sense. However, as I noted above, I would have used a 3" T, to make it easier for you to access the plug at the bottom of the T, and then right above the T put in an adapter going to 4". That'll give you both the easier to access plug, but also the benefits of a 4" pipe.

As for backdrafting, the 4' vertical rise can be either inside or outside. In fact, inside works better, since the pipe is warm, it will naturally draft better. So, your dealer is correct.

Basement installs are trickier for some reason. It sounds like your install looks like Page 15 in the manual. There, the requirement is 1 foot off the ground. Obviously, in snow country you have to be careful not to have the vent blocked. If you can, you may want to add a vertical to get it above your snow level. With a 4" diameter pipe, you should not have any issues with the pipe being too long.

As for snow, I lived in Ste-Agathe-des-Monts as a child and recall getting something like 72" over 3 days in 1971!
by the way there is also a code to adjust the thermostat of the stove to the same temperature off the room and a good trick is also to put an audio extension cord to your stove I have my thermostat cable on the 2nd floor I put 25 feet off extention and calibrate the thermostat off my stove to the temperature off the 2nd floor. if you put an external thermostat the energy saver will not work. a 25 feet audio extension will also cost you less. I don't have my book on hand for now but I'll be back to give you that code you need for calibrating you stove temperature. reguards Pascal.
 
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Hi again, you can see what I was talking about that little black wire coming out off the wall, next to my wall thermostat is the stove original thermostat sensor wire. I know I'ved said it was an Audio extension I used sorry I was wrong, it is not. But if you go to an electronic store they can make you one. just bring your sensor wire. (( I also know that if you splice it and just twist it together it will work but do it write )). ok, then comes the fun part once it's install properly on the second floor or just were ever you want it then go in set up menu - settings factory - set - enter scroll to the code F7 adjust to the temperature you have next to the sensor in my case the second floor. and now the reading on my stove is the one from the second floor that's it, hope you enjoy. Pascal for those who have a remote control that the temperature also is not reading correct then the code for setting the remote controle is F8 only for series P5XX and P6XX

(( I've learned that from fishing experiment to find thermocline whit a basic thermostat wire and an 90 foot added wire to it, 90 foot and still it's giving you the temperature )).
 
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Hi again, you can see what I was talking about that little black wire coming out off the wall, next to my wall thermostat is the stove original thermostat sensor wire. I know I'ved said it was an Audio extension I used sorry I was wrong, it is not. But if you go to an electronic store they can make you one. just bring your sensor wire. (( I also know that if you splice it and just twist it together it will work but do it write )). ok, then comes the fun part once it's install properly on the second floor or just were ever you want it then go in set up menu - settings factory - set - enter scroll to the code F7 adjust to the temperature you have next to the sensor in my case the second floor. and now the reading on my stove is the one from the second floor that's it, hope you enjoy. Pascal for those who have a remote control that the temperature also is not reading correct then the code for setting the remote controle is F8 only for series P5XX and P6XX

(( I've learned that from fishing experiment to find thermocline whit a basic thermostat wire and an 90 foot added wire to it, 90 foot and still it's giving you the temperature )).
Bonjour Pascal

By any chance do you have the code for the Sabrina (Temp probe calibration F7 does not work) . I used about 25ft of telephone inside wire and spliced a 10K NTC from flea Bay
The stove display shows a bit colder about 2 F not a big deal but if it can be fixed why not.
At first the display was bouncing plus or minus 1F (interference I think ,a .1 uf capacitor across the thermistor fixed the problem) stable now

Regards
gusto
 
sorry for the delay F7 is the correct code you need to enter it in settings factory.
Merci

Tried again in Factory Settings but I get code error (E9 works fine for all the 28 parameters) maybe different firmware load I am at SP40 SC MV

Regards
gusto
 
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